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which clear gloss over alloy?

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notxn85
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 01 Jun 2013    Post subject: which clear gloss over alloy? Reply with quote

Hi all,
Well now I've had lots of ideas about a bike for my wife I thought I would ask another burning question ... Confused
My Suzuki XN85 Surprised originally had a brushed finish on the forks, engine etc, I've spent many an hour over the years cleaning, and polishing and matting again - and then use a clear spray to try to keep them from getting messed up so quickly. (Of course this makes the brushed matt finish gloss!)
The sprays I've used have tended to be the type used as a finish on cars, they seem to stick well, but are not really very hard.
I assume factory finishes are two part as they seem a lot harder.
Any suggestions for a hard clear finish?
I only have a cheap airless sprayer and a small compressor with no gun so I have used cans in the past.
Thanks
Tony
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 01 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need it to be warm but not too warm to essentially ''bake'' the paint on and let it harden before doing anything else with it.

That's how I've always done my pushbikes, just pick a warm day in summer and work in the garage so I'm in the shade and out of the wind.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 00:56 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you want is 2K aerosol lacquer, with a matting agent chucked in.

Do a google or Ebay search for 2K aerosols, then contact the makers to see if they will do you a custom satin/matt mix.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lacquer will peel off within a short time. The short answer is keep polishing.
Nothing holds well on ally (except bastard stainless steel bolts in ally holes) which is why even well produced factory ally parts with a lacquer finish peels before very long.

The best solution would be to use an ally specific primer then paint with a metal colour and lacquer but your forks will always look like they've painted rather than having that 'real' metal appearance.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 01:28 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
Lacquer will peel off within a short time. The short answer is keep polishing.
Nothing holds well on ally (except bastard stainless steel bolts in ally holes) which is why even well produced factory ally parts with a lacquer finish peels before very long.

The best solution would be to use an ally specific primer then paint with a metal colour and lacquer but your forks will always look like they've painted rather than having that 'real' metal appearance.


Good quality, well painted lacquer will stick to pretty much anything, if the surface is keyed correctly; the problem with a polished surface is, it's like trying to evenly coat a non stick pan with oil, it's not going to happen.

I'm trying a little experiment on my next project, involving super fine media blasting and matt lacquer; I'm hoping the result will be interesting and long lasting.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 02:04 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
mentalboy wrote:
Lacquer will peel off within a short time. The short answer is keep polishing.
Nothing holds well on ally (except bastard stainless steel bolts in ally holes) which is why even well produced factory ally parts with a lacquer finish peels before very long.

The best solution would be to use an ally specific primer then paint with a metal colour and lacquer but your forks will always look like they've painted rather than having that 'real' metal appearance.


Good quality, well painted lacquer will stick to pretty much anything, if the surface is keyed correctly; the problem with a polished surface is, it's like trying to evenly coat a non stick pan with oil, it's not going to happen.

I'm trying a little experiment on my next project, involving super fine media blasting and matt lacquer; I'm hoping the result will be interesting and long lasting.


As you've said, keying the surface is the only way lacquer will hold, which then gives a glossy rather than polished finish. For the gleam of polished metal your only longlasting (PITA) solution is elbow grease and polish.

And even with keying any alloy with copper or zinc in it the finish will still let go, it's just a question of when.
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 07:34 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
Lacquer will peel off within a short time. The short answer is keep polishing.
Nothing holds well on ally (except bastard stainless steel bolts in ally holes) which is why even well produced factory ally parts with a lacquer finish peels before very long.

The best solution would be to use an ally specific primer then paint with a metal colour and lacquer but your forks will always look like they've painted rather than having that 'real' metal appearance.


Most engines and wheels made of alloy are painted and that paint sticks like shite to a blanket.
What gives?
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very true Walloper - but the OP wants to put something on a polished surface.

Painted alloys are generally powder coated, which is kit the average joe is unlikely to have knocking around at the back of the garage.

You can stick any old sticky stuff on anything but how long it stays put is another matter.

Preparation is the key (literally!)
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notxn85
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PostPosted: 14:55 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trouble is even though my bike is 30 years old and quite rare I like to ride it not stand looking at it.
Advice for the youngsters - the saying about being retired and not having enough time to do everything is quite true.
I'm hoping that as it has a matt alloy finish something will stick and last , the original lacquer stayed on most of the engine covers for 20 years but did yellow a bit. I am not expecting anything to last that long (and in 20 years I will probably be past riding, or be a local legend). The forks and wheels are the worse bits to maintain. I wonder if the type of alloy used has altered over the years and the older type is more prone to trouble.
Thanks for the replies,
Tony
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 02 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Key it up well, 380 wet and dry should suffice, but it may be wise to go a little finer, if you're not after the polished look. Sluice it well with a degreaser and then lacquer from a rattler should save plenty of elbow grease. Try to leave at least a week before putting back together (leaving in a warm place even better). You'll have to live with it cracking away from pinch points (eg wheel spindle/wheel spacers) and if it does crack anywhere then those'll be the spots it'll creep from.
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