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96 RG125 restore

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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 15 Oct 2012
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 17 Jan 2013    Post subject: 96 RG125 restore Reply with quote

Hey guys, managed to pick up a 96 RG125 for £300 with spares which I will be working on over the next few months to get looking pretty and on the road.
Decided to get this as I thought it was a steal and I have been on the look out for a 2 stroke project and jumped at the chance for one with 33bhp (I have a restricted licence)

This is it currently:
https://i48.tinypic.com/p91ea.jpg
https://i48.tinypic.com/148hvh4.jpg
Plus the fairings and loads of lose bits

This is what they look like finished:
https://i48.tinypic.com/97purr.jpg
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darthbuttchin
Scooby Slapper



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PostPosted: 00:46 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's gonna be a bit of work there mate!

Good luck to you though, should be good fun putting it back together.

Remember though, if the 10mm spanner doesn't work, standard procedure is to hit the bolt with said spanner, and swear for a while. Only then may you act rationally.

Also, keep your tea/coffee away from anything that creates dust - chrome flavoured tea don't taste pretty.

Always try n get the engine going as early as possible - that way you know where your at.

And the final picture has stretched a lot, making it look like a mini hayabusa set up for drag racing.
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 15:01 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

darthbuttchin wrote:
That's gonna be a bit of work there mate!

Good luck to you though, should be good fun putting it back together.

Remember though, if the 10mm spanner doesn't work, standard procedure is to hit the bolt with said spanner, and swear for a while. Only then may you act rationally.

Also, keep your tea/coffee away from anything that creates dust - chrome flavoured tea don't taste pretty.

Always try n get the engine going as early as possible - that way you know where your at.

And the final picture has stretched a lot, making it look like a mini hayabusa set up for drag racing.

Yeah, I wanted something that would keep me occupied for quite a while, I can't wait to look at the completed project and take it for a spin so that'll keep me motivated.

One of the engines I've been told should work straight off but I'll believe that when I see it, I'm going to start by completely stripping it and individually making each piece cosmetically pretty, would have started today if it wasn't for the snow...
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Frost
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

No meaning to piss on your BBQ, but are you sure that's a 96 model? The later models had a 'banana' swinging arm but yours looks to be straight.
Also 33bhp is optimistic for a mito / RS125, which are known to be more powerful than an NSR, which is known to be quicker than an RG. In great condition i'd say an RS125 is 28bhp, NSR 24bhp, RG 22bhp?
They did a 150cc version in thailand and i remember riding one felt pretty quick, though that might just have been relative to the speed everyone else was doing Laughing Might be worth seeing how much effort aquiring a 150 top end?
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 20:55 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frost wrote:
No meaning to piss on your BBQ, but are you sure that's a 96 model? The later models had a 'banana' swinging arm but yours looks to be straight.
Also 33bhp is optimistic for a mito / RS125, which are known to be more powerful than an NSR, which is known to be quicker than an RG. In great condition i'd say an RS125 is 28bhp, NSR 24bhp, RG 22bhp?
They did a 150cc version in thailand and i remember riding one felt pretty quick, though that might just have been relative to the speed everyone else was doing Laughing Might be worth seeing how much effort aquiring a 150 top end?

Yup, definitely a 96, frame matched the V5.
According to everywhere I've looked the RG is said to be 33bhp so I cant see why it would be as low as 22bhp and as far as im aware a RS125 is around 33-34? unless im missing something or being given the wrong info?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Docker wrote:

According to everywhere I've looked the RG is said to be 33bhp so I cant see why it would be as low as 22bhp, unless im missing something?


Power claims had more to do with the marketing department than any real measurement. Somewhere I have a PB road test of 125s which included the RG. Will try and find it and see if they dynoed it.

All the best

Keith
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Docker
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Docker wrote:

According to everywhere I've looked the RG is said to be 33bhp so I cant see why it would be as low as 22bhp, unless im missing something?


Power claims had more to do with the marketing department than any real measurement. Somewhere I have a PB road test of 125s which included the RG. Will try and find it and see if they dynoed it.

All the best

Keith

Ok thanks Smile yeah when i refer to the figures im referring to the 'claimed'. Just easier to refer to them all by that as the actually bhp of each bike has too many variables.
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Frost
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You sure it's not an import first registered in 96?

I've seen RS125 claimed power figures in the high 30's which seems to be based on people googling for a power figure than adding a bit cause they've got a K&N filter or 'race' exhaust. 28bhp is what you'd get from a good one running perfectly. near rebuild time or after someones attempts at making one go faster it'll drop from that.

Obviously they'll all be sold restricted to 12bhp so when you fix yours make sure you do whatever is needed to derestrict.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bet you an RG FUN is a quicker bike than any of the official u.k. Honda NSR's and the u.k TZR's.

The Italian import NSR's and TZR's are a different thing altogether and then there were lots of spec changes year by year and also SP models too.

The RG is always said to be 1/2 an RGV250 engine, and it has a 30mm Flat slide carb which helps I would think. I'd be guessing 30bhp at the motor and 26-27bhp r/w.

There's no way it could be 22bhp at the engine for the speeds they are supposed to reach.
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Docker
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frost wrote:
You sure it's not an import first registered in 96?

I've seen RS125 claimed power figures in the high 30's which seems to be based on people googling for a power figure than adding a bit cause they've got a K&N filter or 'race' exhaust. 28bhp is what you'd get from a good one running perfectly. near rebuild time or after someones attempts at making one go faster it'll drop from that.

Obviously they'll all be sold restricted to 12bhp so when you fix yours make sure you do whatever is needed to derestrict.


Previous person already had it derestricted so shouldn't need it Smile just looked at the v5 and the first registration date is the same as first registration date in the uk so dont know any other way to check if its an import or not?
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

From memory they were easily derestricted. Just chop the black / white wire to the CDI.

All the best

Keith
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Docker
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

From memory they were easily derestricted. Just chop the black / white wire to the CDI.

All the best

Keith

Yeah the white wire stops the powervalve opening fully so you unplug that and also cut the exhaust and file away the restrictor washer Smile
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Frost
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 18 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big power claims were made about the RGV250 too, but in standard trim they usually came out at about 50bhp or sometimes a tad over. So halving the engine would git ~25bhp which is a bit better than my 22bhp estimate Laughing
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 00:07 - 19 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once its done I will see my dyno man and have it tested for you all so we know for sure what it puts out Razz either way people have recorded getting 100mph out of them, as long as it can do 85-90 im happy.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 12:55 - 19 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

A true high 90s shouldn't be a major problem. Early AF1 managed 98mph in the road tests on 22hp (they had a fairly flexible power delivery)

All the best

Keith
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 00:05 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just bought this shed for £100 to store my project in Smile
https://i48.tinypic.com/21140f7.png
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Frost
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 00:13 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet. Just remember that there's no such thing as too much light when you're doing a project. Also a heater will help massively both with motivation to go outside and with drying any paint Wink
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Docker
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 21 Jan 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frost wrote:
Sweet. Just remember that there's no such thing as too much light when you're doing a project. Also a heater will help massively both with motivation to go outside and with drying any paint Wink

yeah Smile going to wire up some lights in there and run an extension cord in. its not in perfect condition but after van rental and petrol its still costing half the price of a new one that size.
Heat isnt too much of an issue for me, been out in the snow the last 2 days finishing my gs which is one wield away from being able to pass an MOT.
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 19:02 - 02 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I had the day off work and it was nice weather I decided to spend the day in it stripping the RG125, thats the longest part done, now I can begin the small cosmetic jobs.
https://i.imgur.com/qWrP006.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6kLfKjZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ref0a07.jpg
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bladerunner
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 16:58 - 03 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rgv250 top end will indeed bolt straight on ( you need to blank off one of the water ways) and the rg 125 was slightly lower tuned than the 250 to give a bit more torque for setting off. Early rgv250s made 45ish bhp on the dyno......55 ish with pipe and air box mods and 60+ with a bit of head work and blended power valves......talking of power valves....inspect yours closely for wear/ cracks and adjust them carefully as they as std are a weak point on these motors!.....shame for the 125 lot of today there are no more 2 t versions available
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 18:11 - 05 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another nice day so got the fairings out to have a proper look, gave them abit of a clean and got started on the sanding/filling.
https://i.imgur.com/Q48c3KJ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1yakhz3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tzLUuNS.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/EL35qSQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/977glXR.jpg

Got the filler out on the two side panels and front mudguard so far
https://i.imgur.com/rpBjse3.jpg

I'm going to continue using filler on the remaining fairings then ill sand them down properly and primer them to bring out any imperfections left to filler.
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Docker
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 18:25 - 06 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I sanded down both side panels and used a filler primer on them in order to bring out any blemishes I couldnt see, I plan on doing this a few times until ive got rid of all the imperfections and have them looking pretty again.

As my phone is broken at the moment I only managed to get a few pictures today.

https://i.imgur.com/SArCMO6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/H8QxHj4.jpg

This is the first filler primer coat I have done, as you can see it brought out new marks which I will be re-filling and re-priming.
https://i.imgur.com/HkSRcYt.jpg
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Frost
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PostPosted: 19:21 - 06 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surely you should be sanding back to plastic rather than putting filler over paint?
Small imperfections are fixed using the primer rather than filler.
The cracks are because you've put the primer on too thick in one coat.
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Docker
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 06 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frost wrote:
Surely you should be sanding back to plastic rather than putting filler over paint?
Small imperfections are fixed using the primer rather than filler.
The cracks are because you've put the primer on too thick in one coat.

primer being too thick is not the only cause of cracked paint, it can be a chemical reaction to previous paints on the fairing, anything on the surface such as oil etc that cant be seen etc etc.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting filler primer on to bring them out, sanding it back then using filler and sanding again and will give you the exact same end result.
Beats spending countless days and hours sanding 6 full fairing pieces back to achieve the same end result, both ways get rid of all imperfections and leave them looking the same which is something I learnt from 10 years of repairing race fairings.


Last edited by Docker on 19:41 - 06 May 2013; edited 1 time in total
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lihp
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 06 May 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like a paint reaction to me. I'd be tempted to get it smooth isolate over it all and try again
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