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Jetting PHBH28 on premix

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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 06 Jun 2013    Post subject: Jetting PHBH28 on premix Reply with quote

I bought a Husqvarna SM125 this time last year as a non runner (first bike) and I've rebuilt the engine. I got it to start but couldn't get it to idle (it just revved very high to the point I shut it off), so I pulled the carb apart and checked all the numbers and it seemed to be a carb off another bike as all the jets and the throttle slide etc were different from stock.

I then bought a stock carb and fitted that, and the issue is somewhat improved. it will now idle at a sensible speed, but unless you lift the choke every minute or so, it eventually dies off.

When I rebuilt it, I removed the injection pump and premixed the fuel (I'm not planning on doing too many miles and don't trust them, been premixing for outboards and chainsaws for years) and it's been suggested the jet sizes may need altered to cope with the change in fuel viscosity?

Has anyone got any experience of jetting on premix, or suggestions why I can't get a steady idle?

Cheers
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Paddy Blake
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 06 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You sound like you know what you are talking about so I don't mean to patronize you.

Is their not a screw on the carburetor the adjust the air/fuel mixture.

This will effect tick over.

Is there a chance of an air leak between the carb and head.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 06 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha don't worry about that, I've done my time with cars but bikes are new territory!

There is indeed, and adjusting that brought the revs back to something sensible but it won't continue to idle without needing a little choke even when hot.

An air leak is possible I guess, but its a flanged rubber tube, which is bolted to the crank case (not been off since I got it) and fastens to the carb with a jubilee clip. Is it ok to test with carb cleaner or something?

Cheers for the reply
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Paddy Blake
World Chat Champion



Joined: 29 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 06 Jun 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

B5234FT wrote:
Haha don't worry about that, I've done my time with cars but bikes are new territory!

There is indeed, and adjusting that brought the revs back to something sensible but it won't continue to idle without needing a little choke even when hot.

An air leak is possible I guess, but its a flanged rubber tube, which is bolted to the crank case (not been off since I got it) and fastens to the carb with a jubilee clip. Is it ok to test with carb cleaner or something?

Cheers for the reply


Yes,that is the best thing to do.Any change in the way it revs will till you there is a leak.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 19:39 - 02 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Much messing around later I found I'd reassembled the carb with the main needle circlip above the retaining plate instead of below.

I can get it to start, warm it up on a fraction of choke and then get it to sit at idle without stalling.

With this achieved I set about trying to set up the idle circuit and found this:

https://justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html


Quote:
The Pilot Circuit, Tuning from Idle to ¼ Throttle -You can use the air screw to help determine if your pilot jet is appropriately sized. Take your bike for a short ride letting the engine come up to normal operating temperature. With the engine stopped, transmission in neutral and the bike on its stand turn the air screw clockwise until it just seats, gentle now it’s delicate and you don’t need to torque it down just gently seat it. Now turn the air screw a quarter of a turn out so the engine will fire and start it. Slowly turn the air screw counter clockwise ( out ) until the point where the engine just reaches the maximum obtainable rpm and continuing to turn the air screw beyond this point wont increase the engine speed (rpms) any further. I find it’s easier to hear the rpm increasing if you set the idle at its lowest possible position without the engine stalling. You’ll want to repeat this procedure a couple times until you’re confident that you’ve found the right spot and that the result is reproducible. When you’re comfortable count the number of turns ( 360° revolutions ) you’ve backed the air screw out to reach this point. The normal operating range is between 1 and 1.5 turns out so if you find the ideal setting is less that 0.75 turns out consider installing the next richer pilot jet (larger number ). If you find the ideal setting is more than 2 turns out consider installing the next leaner pilot jet ( smaller number ).


I did that, with the revs slowly increasing with each 1/8 turn until it took off. The revs skyrocketed after about 1.5 turns, I shut off the key and it carried on running. I dropped it into first and stalled it, but I'm curious whats going on? Is it possible I unwound the screw so gradually that I leaned it out for long enough to heat the plug electrode enough to keep it running?

As always cheers for any advice!
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The other Paul Rudd
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 06 May 2013
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 02 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could possibly be a dodgy crank seal if the inlet is leak free and it's jetted correctly.

Also dismantle the carb completely and check there are no extra gauze filters after the fuel spigot and before the float valve. I was chasing a fuel blockage for ages on my Ariel until, looking over an exploded view, I happened to notice an extra gauze filter in a banjo fitting.
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