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Camchain Replacement. ZZR 600.

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johnsmith222
World Chat Champion



Joined: 26 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: 03:25 - 09 Jul 2013    Post subject: Camchain Replacement. ZZR 600. Reply with quote

Hi guys,

Now that I have got my ZZR600 E through its MOT I feel it's time that I address the problem of the camchain.

When doing my valve clearances last September I found out that my CCT is on its furthest possible adjustment and that even when at this there was still slight slack in the camchain between the two cam sprockets.

The tensioner was reset multiple times but the problem still remained.

I figure that it is time to replace the camchain on the bike. It has admittedly been ridden hard and has done near enough 40,000 miles.

I am looking for advice on replacing my camchain and what the job entails.

The OEM camchain is endless so I believe this job requires the removal of the cylinder head and is generally a bit of a ballache.

I would also consider breaking the old chain and running a new chain with split link through and riveting that. I have heard that riveted camchains wear out much faster though.

I am not 100% sure that the issue is the camchain either. Could it also be worn down guides?

Here is a picture of the camchain which is looped on a mallet when I did my clearances last summer. I've only put the picture so that people who are unfamiliar with the bike can get an idea of where the camchain is etc.

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/zzrcam.jpg

It's a multiplate type chain so I don't even know if this can be riveted.

I think I would be capable of fitting an endless chain if it came to that. I don't know how economically viable that is though.

Thanks for any help guys. Thumbs Up
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misscrabstick
Crazy Courier



Joined: 05 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 09 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You say slack between the sprockets, I may be wrong but does the chain not run against a slipper pad that's fitted in the underside of the cam cover? this would tighten the chain when it is bolted into position.

Does the chain rattle in use? if not I would leave it be until it does, changing the chain will mean a major strip, as the chain runs around the centre of the crank you'll need that free to replace it, that means pistons out, block off, head off, crankcases split etc.

I would expect a hivo chain like you have to go further than 40k to be honest, they pretty tough things generally.
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stickybackbob
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 23 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 09 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks very similar to the chain I replaced on my old ZXR.

The chain I bought was about £60 off ebay and cam with a split link to rivet together.

To do the job properly (a la haynes book of lies), the crank needs to come out.

However, in the real world, the chain can be split on the bike (I used a dremel to grind a link off - use rags to stop any grindings entering the engine). Then linked the new chain to the old and pulled it through. Join the new chain using a chain riveter or two hammers. Job done, quiet as a quiet thing and hammered on a daily basis.

Not heard of any difference between the wear rates on endless or split chains but it depends where you heard it ('my mate says' is usually where rumours start).

As for chain life, mine was changed with just over 40k on the clock. As I've not had the bike from new, then that is obviously only a guide.

HTH
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