Trouble starting Honda Varadero 125

[Wyldkat]

Hey everyone, I haven't posted on here for a long time - mainly because the bike I was working on got sold and I got the Varadero.

I have done a quick search and there's a few things similar to what I'm experiencing but not quite.

Due to a few issues, the bike has been left in garage since October 2012.
These issues are now solved but now, when I go to start it - nothing.

I have been advise about the battery being so low that it starts to die off, I think this may be it - I had it on charge and then trickle for 3 weeks, went to start bike and after half hour, no power again.

Also been told that because it's been left for ages, the carbs may be stuck and dry,, a good way to sort it was to press the ignition whilst spraying WD40 into the air filter....??

Any ideas?

I have checked the gaps on the plugs (new ones) and am getting a good spark on both.

Have made sure the fuel taps on, tried the choke as well.
____________________
Oldie - 1987 Suzuki GP100 SOLD!
Current (as of 12/7/12) 2001 Honda Varadero 125

[Boxing]

Did you leave it sitting with the battery connected? If so battery is probably gone. And on a trickle charge for THREE weeks?!

24 hours is the maximum to trickle charge a battery.

You tried bump starting it? Get someone to push you, whack it in first let the clutch out, pull it back in as soon as it fires.

As for the carbs, could do with a clean after sitting for a while, but I bought a moped that had been sitting for eight years, didn't clean the carb and it ran fine.

But yeah, that battery is probably ruined now. The one on my moped was.

[Rogerborg]

[Boxing]

[Islander]

Depends on the charger - modern maintenance type chargers (Optimates and the like) can be left permanently connected without problems.

[Islander]

OP - get yourself a can of easy start, spray it into the airbox as per instructions and then try to start the bike. Make sure you have fresh fuel too. You may be lucky and the carbs may just be alright.

[Wyldkat]

Ok, cheers guys.

Easy start...thats the stuff! I was trying to remember what it was called.

As for the charge - yes, it was an optimate - maybe should have said it was on 'maintenance' charge......

I will now go on the look out for the spray
____________________
Oldie - 1987 Suzuki GP100 SOLD!
Current (as of 12/7/12) 2001 Honda Varadero 125

[gavbriggs]

Undo the drain on the bottom of the carbs, petrol should flow out, if not then there's ya issue. If it does then you will probably be best to strip and clean the carbs.

In most carbs, certainly the carbs on garden tools, there are gauges that 'wax' up with old fuel as it dries.

A friends bike, something big cant remember what, packed up on him after taking it out of storage, ran for a short while then gave in due to carbs needing a good overall and clean.

Even if it doesn't solve the issue you can then rule it out.

I would also just go get a new battery. They are cheap enough and it will save you the hassle when the weather drops later in the year.

[P.addy]

Whip carbs off, quick clean and fresh battery. Sorted.

[Wyldkat]

Is it really a quick n easy job?
I always thought that the carbs can be tricky and delicate and easy to bugger up?

At least, thats what I've been told
____________________
Oldie - 1987 Suzuki GP100 SOLD!
Current (as of 12/7/12) 2001 Honda Varadero 125

[browland]

I recently removed and cleaned the carbs on my 04 Vara. It wasn't a quick job, but that was without much maintenance experience. I managed to get it all back together so it can't be that hard

You can leave both carbs linked together (so no need to synchronise), and record the position of the pilot screw as you'll want to clean it.

The trickiest part overall was getting some of the screws out of the float chambers and the plastic caps at the top. I resorted to using a drill and an easy-out (then replaced the screws with allen bolts). If yours are stuck, you might have better luck if you choose a screwdriver which fits really well (JIL perhaps, I'm not sure), or perhaps an impact driver.

You'll want to clamp the heater hose coming from the rear cylinder (no need to drain the coolant). Also, keep parts from each carb together because the main/needle jets are different sizes front and rear.

The Haynes manual will help, as will taking lots of photos/videos as you disassemble.

[dnrobs]

when you say no power do you mean no lights or no revs.
remember the throttle is electric(at least i presume so,after bump starting twisting the throttle does nothing) and needs a battery to work so that might be it.
maybe invest in a multimeter for a couple of quid.

[Timmeh]

[Wyldkat]