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Reasonable wait time for warranty work? Blowing fuses.

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Piercee100
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 07 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 25 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reasonable wait time for warranty work? Blowing fuses. Reply with quote

Hiya peeps,

My Suzuki, bought new in May blows a fuse when a brake lever is pulled or pushed and has done this for a couple of days which means no brake lights or headlight as they share the same fuse. After checking, thinking it was the bulb at first it as the headlight wasn't lit but later discovering no brake light, turns out to be the fuse. I have a warranty so contacted the dealer explaining the problem but they cannot fit me in until August the 3rd for a look.

I explained that this is my only transport and I commute around 100 miles a day but say they cannot get me in any sooner. Surely a warranty means they have to act quickly?

Any ideas of what I could be looking for to get this fixed by myself? I think it may be just be affecting the foot brake lever but have ran out of fuses for further testing on the hand lever?
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Rides: Honda H100a (Retired), VT500e (Sold), Kawasaki ZX400 (sold), Kawasaki GT550 (Sold), Suzuki Inazuma (Daily), Honda CD185t (Broken), LML Star 2t (Last run edition).
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Marmalade
World Chat Champion



Joined: 28 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 25 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Change the all the bulbs on that circuit, if a bulb is shorting it'll be blowing the fuses.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 09:57 - 25 Jul 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your sig is a tad ironic in this circumstance.

Sounds like you have a short circuit. Most likely is that somewhere along its length, the wire between the brake switch and the bulb has become damaged and is now touching a metal part of the bike.

Common places are a wire being trapped under a body panel, the tank or the seat so remove these one at a time and see if the problem goes away (if it does, find where it was trapped). Otherwise follow the wires until you find the problem, there could well be melty insulation round the problem area. Where wires pass round the headstock is another common place for rubbing.

Ultimately, if you can't find the problem but are sure it's just with the rear brake switch, just run a new wire between the switch and the bulb and cut both ends of the old one.

A useful tip for fault finding in this kind of problem is to connect a bulb where the fuse normally goes (an old indicator with spade terninals attached to the wires is ideal). This will put some load in the circuit and stop you blowing a fuse every time you want to check it's fixed. If just the "fuse" bulb lights, you still have a short circuit. If both bulbs light, there is no short.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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