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Swapping wheels on different sports bikes

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smithyithy
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Swapping wheels on different sports bikes Reply with quote

Think this is the right section for this..

Is it a common practice, or even generally possible?

I mean for example putting R6 wheels on a Gixer 600, CBR wheels on a Ninja..

Where do the limitations start? Obviously first you'd be looking at the wheel widths and diameters, but providing those matched up, what next?

Do we look at centre bores and offsets like with car wheels?

Just something I'm curious about..
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You also need to consider spindle diameters and bearing sizes, often you can find bearings with a suitable ID/OD to accommodate the change.
Also think about disc flange spacing and disc bolt pattern, flange spacing will affect caliper position, you can sometimes get round this by using discs with different offsets or disc spacers, or by making adaptor plates to offset the calipers.
On the rear wheel also think about chain alignment, front or rear sprockets can be bought or made with different offsets to correct small amounts of chain misalignment, if you have to resort to having the wheel machined then it gets expensive.
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smithyithy
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. So for the most part it seems it can be quite a lot of hassle, compared to swapping around car wheels at least..
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can be done but is it worth doing?
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smithyithy
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably not, it seems. Unless you find a combination that's almost a straight swap.

Reason I ask is, I'm not really a fan of 3-spoke wheels on supersports, even though mine has them... The CBR600RR's do too and I'd prefer either the 5 spokes like the R6, or the 10-spokes like the new 'Blades.

Either way I'll probably be getting the stock black wheels painted white cause I much prefer white wheels (even though they're a bitch to keep clean) so I was curious about whether you could just swap with another bike..
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Vincent This post is not being displayed because the poster is banned. Unhide this post / all posts.

Kickstart
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Kestral covered most things. Remember the speedo drive though, which also applies even if you are swapping the complete front and rear ends.

All the best

Keith
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 17 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
It's quite often just as easy to transplant the entire front and rear ends. Steering stems can be swapped over and swingarm pivot widths are similar on a lot of bikes.
It's a nice way to transform a skinny wheeled classic into a more "modern" looking bike too.


Swapping an entire front end is the easiest option, that way everything fits and works together. Unless you particularly wish to alter the geometry/handling of the bike then the replacement front end needs to be of the same length as the original. As Vincent says, steering stems can often be pressed out and swapped from one set of yokes to the other, if they are a similar length then it may just require a bearing change, worst scenario is that you will need to have a stem machined.

Swingarm changes can be much more involved. Firstly to retain handling characteristics you need a swingarm of a similar length, measured between the pivot tube and the axle slots. There are very few swingarms with the same pivot tube width. If the new swingarm pivot tube is narrower than the original then it can be fitted with suitable spacers, if it is wider then you need to either shorten the pivot tube or widen the frame by trimming the bosses, or a combination of both. Then comes the pivot tube bearings, spacer tube and pivot spindle, which are seldom the same diameters on different swingarms. If you're changing a monoshock swingarm then there will also be issues to overcome with linkage mounts.

If you're swapping rear swingarm/wheel to increase tyre width on an old classic then be aware that a fitting a much wider tyre than standard will almost certainly result in clearance issues between the chain and the tyre sidewall. The only way to remedy this is to move the front sprocket, either by spacing or fitting a dished sprocket. You can only move a front sprocket by a relatively small amount after which you need to consider an outrigger bearing setup to take the increased side load off the output shaft bearing.

Anything is possible if you have the resources or deep enough pockets.
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