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dn38416
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 17 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Road positioning Reply with quote

Hi

I just went out for my first longish ride since CBT, it was just after a day or so of light rain and the road (rural A road) was sort of mixed - the middle still looked dry, but maybe just because of all the grit there*, and the sides were wet and slippy. The road also had quite a heavy camber.

I felt like i nearly slid out of control on corners at least twice, both in places with high cross winds from the open fields, where i was almost right in the gutter. There's lots i don't understand yet, including counter-steering. As far as I understand cornering, that would necessitate moving over these different road surfaces in the wet, then turning with very little contact between the tyre and the road surface.

I'll elaborate, lets say i'm on a 60mph rural road, heavy negative camber, shiny wet road where car wheels go, and a dry gritty bit in the middle. Going straight, I'd be positioned in the right most of these 3 tracks, then approaching a right turn wouldn't i need to move over to the left most, then lean the bike right. When you pair this last part with the negative camber wouldn't that mean that the bottom part of the tyre is facing away from the road?

Seriously knocked my confidence yesterday, especially with the cars up my arse, it was just as i hit about 55 the wind pushed me to the side of the road and i thought i was gonner-come-a-cropper.

*Also, on the road where i live, whenever it rains it is guaranteed to wash all kinds of debris including quite large rocks into the middle of the lane and the sides turn into streams, is it even advisable to try crossing these.
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confidence comes with practice, just keep at it and you will improve and your confidence will grow.

As for cornering i would position myself on the very left of a right hand corner, that way i can see more of what is coming around the corner. Also remember to leave the power on going round the corner because it's what give you traction.

The first time i ever fell off my bike i was going around a corner with no throttle on a wet road.

Also remember to look where you want to go not the kerb/gutter.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't always want to ride in the outer car tyre mark, if there's a right hander with limited forward vision coming, get into the left one in good time.

I would often stay in the left track anyway unless it's a generously wide road - possible exception being if I wanted a split second more time easily visible approaching junctions.
You're wise to minimise time on the gravelly bits inbetween.
Bits of metal which can damage tyres often lurk there too.
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unluckyluke
Nova Slayer



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PostPosted: 15:38 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like you're over thinking things a bit. Try to get some more time on the road in the dry and concentrate on looking where you want to go and not worrying about road position/counter steering. I can guarantee you are already counter steering without even knowing it, it's not as extreme as how you described it, it's simply a small nudge on the bars in the opposite direction first before taking a turn in the other direction.
But when you're starting out just concentrate on riding smoothly, braking before corners and accelerating gently through an out of them. This along with looking ahead and round the bend will get you round a corner nice and smoothly.
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Christoffee
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

brendan19932010 wrote:
Also remember to leave the power on going round the corner because it's what give you traction.


Interesting. The amount of power to put down when cornering has been bothering me. I decided on enough to maintain speed, but not so much that I increase speed.

Does that sound reasonable?
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unluckyluke
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christoffee wrote:
brendan19932010 wrote:
Also remember to leave the power on going round the corner because it's what give you traction.


Interesting. The amount of power to put down when cornering has been bothering me. I decided on enough to maintain speed, but not so much that I increase speed.

Does that sound reasonable?


I would say as long as you maintain some throttle you won't unsettle the bike like you would if you dropped all throttle and coasted through the corner. It's more about stability, the faster the bike is moving the greater the gyroscopic effect and the harder it is to push the bike over or break traction is how I've always thought of it. But I could be talking bollocks!
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say adjust the speed so its suitable for the corner prior to entering it, if youre finding youre breaking too much mid corner youre probably either going too fast or are poorly positioned.

This books definately worth a read for general knowledge
https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51FlXxNppFL._SY600_.jpg
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Christoffee
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Matt- wrote:
I'd say adjust the speed so its suitable for the corner prior to entering it, if youre finding youre breaking too much mid corner youre probably either going too fast or are poorly positioned.

This books definately worth a read for general knowledge
https://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51FlXxNppFL._SY600_.jpg


The second time I've seen this recommended on here. I'm in. Off to Amazon...
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its certainly no biker bible but its a good read, especially for people newer to biking

Buy used and flog it back after Thumbs Up
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bren_9311
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christoffee wrote:
brendan19932010 wrote:
Also remember to leave the power on going round the corner because it's what give you traction.


Interesting. The amount of power to put down when cornering has been bothering me. I decided on enough to maintain speed, but not so much that I increase speed.

Does that sound reasonable?


Enough power for it to be smooth, of you feel yourself starting to wobble just apply a bit more power to get you through the bend.
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dn38416
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 17 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 21:30 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think there's a new edition of the police roadcraft book due out in the next week or so. The last bike one was from 1996, no idea if they will make any big changes.
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maph3rs
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 31 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 25 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey dn38416,
Ive just passed my CBT about 4 weeks ago. I had my first wet ride yesterday and was pretty nervous about turning. BUT the best thing to do is watch Twist of the wrist 2 on youtube . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVWNinsmkAw
Makes loads of sense. , - Its corny tho so stick with it
Also just make sure to have the right speed going into the turn so you can maintain the speed throughout and a nice 'throttle on' when exiting (will make sense after the vid).

Ive also found that even doing the speed limit cars wanna be up your arse. As soon as they see a L plate they think they need to overtake. Just remember to distance the gap between you and the car in front if there is someone up your arse.

Also if you know anyone who rides and has passed there test then try and get out with them. I went out with a couple of lads and watched what they did and even led them for a while (funny a 125 leading a ninja and a r6!!). Gives you a big confidence boost.
James
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Christoffee
Nitrous Nuisance



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PostPosted: 06:39 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

maph3rs wrote:
Ive also found that even doing the speed limit cars wanna be up your arse. As soon as they see a L plate they think they need to overtake.


Just why is this. I live on a stretch of country A road. People regularly do 50 or even 40 down it. But when I'm doing 60 or 65 (depending on up or down hill!) buggers are overtaking, sometimes quite unsafely. It's not a great road for over taking.

Also, people pull out on you more. I wonder whether they see the L plate and think ill be doing 40 so they have plenty of time, and suddenly I'm on top of them.

I use my horn loads!
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Rogerborg
nimbA



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PostPosted: 07:56 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Re: Road positioning Reply with quote

dn38416 wrote:
the sides turn into streams, is it even advisable to try crossing these.

Never, ever, cross the streams. Tut Tut
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO don't mention "countersteering"!!!!!!!!

If your negotiating a bend in the wet and feel its too slippy to lean over much then try sliding your arse slightly off the seat on the inside of the turn and angle the bike upright with your hands on the bars. This will keep tyre on the road surface and allow you a bit more speed.

As others have said, keep off the crap in the centre and out of the gutter. Also don't let drivers force you to go faster than you're comfortable with, go at your own pace.
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dn38416
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 17 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 18:46 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies guys, i put in about 80 miles today while it was quiet, and have made great progress on the corners following your combined advice. Twist of the wrist is great, there are segments with an english voice over, i have that guy shouting at me in my head now!

Went part way down the A40 where its three lanes, very windy, still not great at dealing with the wind at all, sidewind, front wind , any wind.

Roundabouts are a bit iffy too, i instictively slow down by tapping the rear brake, and promptly lose stability. Wobble a bit, and leave a huge gap open for any prick that wants to undertake. One silver lining from being this crap, is that a lot of the car drivers up my arse back off when they see me wobbling around.
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unluckyluke
Nova Slayer



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PostPosted: 19:32 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest mate I found side winds and passing lorries a real pain as well on a 125. As soon as you jump on a bigger, heavier bike you don't notice it so much. Just stay calm when it happens, if you panic and tighten your grip you'll only make it worse and effect your road position/balance more. I know it's easy to say but try to stay calm and a light grip on the bars and try to anticipate when you're going to get hit by a side wind (ie when passing a large vehicle or a gap in the hedges either side). This will help reduce the effect of the side wind as you wont move the bike around so much as you are buffeted by the wind.
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finniee
Spanner Monkey



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PostPosted: 22:10 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I'm still very much a pup, all I can do is offer my advice.

Winds - Pain in the backside, I usually slow down just a wee bit when there is cross winds when no one is behind me 9/10 usually solves it for me.

Lorries - same again, stay more over to the left hand side as the back draft caused my the "aerodynamic" trailer has to go somewhere.
If you stand at the side of a road and a lorry goes past you can sometimes feel it.

Distance - If you feel comfortable at leaving that big of a gap it is up to you, as you said some plonker could just wizz into it. I usually give the car in front maybe 2 white line lengths. Not really a standard measurement but it does the trick.
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 22:30 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

finniee wrote:

Distance - If you feel comfortable at leaving that big of a gap it is up to you, as you said some plonker could just wizz into it. I usually give the car in front maybe 2 white line lengths. Not really a standard measurement but it does the trick.


The standard guidance (IIRC) on this is in dry weather the 'two second rule' i.e it should take a minimum of two seconds to reach the vehicle ahead at your current speed.

In wet weather in a car i think its 4 seconds, on a bike 6? And obviously in icey conditions multiply this greatly - may need correcting on those times.

These are 'thinking times' though so by no means a guaranteed safe stop time, it greatly depends on the bikes braking ability and the road conditons ultimately.
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 23:01 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try to get some practice in when the roads are quiet, that way you'll have less chance of having some asshole pressuring you you from the rear.

Also, if it's raining, you need to ride to the conditions of the road ie; don't go around bends too fast and don't lean the bike too much. I had to ride home (approx. 30 miles) through mainly country lanes last "summer" at night, in torrential rain and gale force winds with all sorts of debris in the road, including the occasional tree. Rode with a maximum speed of 20mph and took forever but, I got me and the bike home safe and sound.

Pretty much else has been posted already.

And yeah...a +1 for Twist of the Wrist 2 on cornering technique. Helped me out loads, even though I thought I was doing okay beforehand.
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finniee
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PostPosted: 23:05 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Matt- wrote:
finniee wrote:

Distance - If you feel comfortable at leaving that big of a gap it is up to you, as you said some plonker could just wizz into it. I usually give the car in front maybe 2 white line lengths. Not really a standard measurement but it does the trick.


The standard guidance (IIRC) on this is in dry weather the 'two second rule' i.e it should take a minimum of two seconds to reach the vehicle ahead at your current speed.

In wet weather in a car i think its 4 seconds, on a bike 6? And obviously in icey conditions multiply this greatly - may need correcting on those times.

These are 'thinking times' though so by no means a guaranteed safe stop time, it greatly depends on the bikes braking ability and the road conditons ultimately.


Could be right. Im probs wrong about the distance but thats just a rough estimate of what I use.
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 26 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

It all varies so greatly in many cases its best to throw it all aside anyway to be honest and judge each situation by itself Thumbs Up
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maph3rs
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 08:14 - 27 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

dn38416 wrote:

Roundabouts are a bit iffy too, i instictively slow down by tapping the rear brake, and promptly lose stability. Wobble a bit, and leave a huge gap open for any prick that wants to undertake. One silver lining from being this crap, is that a lot of the car drivers up my arse back off when they see me wobbling around.


You should be using the front and rear brake together. isnt it like 70% front and 30% rear?If your wobbling your using too much back brake. try gently pressing the front brake and pressing down on the rear.
You will feel the front suspension 'load' up and you should be slowing down smoother. Also down change gear as you approach. slowly releasing the clutch each time. Dont use your thinking time worrying about 'what ifs' but rather how long is it before i reach the junction/roundabout..

You will get used to the wind. Im a car driver so the wind was a big shock to me. Never thought about how it would be so prominent. even on calm days.

Oh and distance between vehicles...let the behicle in front pass a lampost foe example. then say in your head..'1 1000, 2 1000' then you should pass said lampost.

'only a fool breaks the 2 second rule Smile'
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dn38416
Nitrous Nuisance



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PostPosted: 06:35 - 28 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks

Slightly off topic, but many of you sound like you have the same type of commute (a roads and dual carriageways). I'm on a CBF 125, only started commuting yesterday, for about 10 miles on the A40 i was pushing 7/8k rpm, then coming back into the A-roads continued at about 6k rpm for 20 miles. Is this bad for the engine? It doesn't purr like it did at the lower revs, it sounds like its in pain at these levels.
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-Matt-
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PostPosted: 07:16 - 28 Aug 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So long as youre a decent way off redline it wont do much damage directly, keep up with maintenance particularly oil changes and i wouldnt say its something to worry about at all in the time period youre likely to own the bike Thumbs Up
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