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"Noise Nuisance due to revving motorbike"

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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:06 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reed wrote:
I don't leave my bike idling for 20 minutes either, more like 2.

Why?

Reed wrote:
And yes I know several people with older cars, one of them with a 1992 mk 2 golf, he will not drive it anywhere unless it has sat with the choke on for at least a couple minutes.

Why?

The plural of anecdote is not data.
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reed
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because race car.
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daemonoid
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reed wrote:
Because race car.


Get out! This is not Jalopnik






Wink
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Dave70
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

To warm up or not to warm up, that is the question. (Or so it would appear Thinking )

Tbh I always let my bike idle for roughly five minutes before setting off. The reason being is purely down to the fact that I was advised to do this when I took my CBT. At the start of the training, my instructor got me to start my bike up "to warm it up" while he went through some questions and letting me know what to expect during the training.

As someone who knew sweet FA about bikes, I just went with it. After all, he was the instuctor and had years of riding experience, so why wouldn't I take this advise on board? This is something that has stuck with me ever since.
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nathan k
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bike is one of the most important things in my life, I'm not going to risk damaging it because someone doesn't enjoy the smell or sound of a 2 stroke engine.

Luckily my neighbours don't seem to mind, i think. Only noise complaint i've had was when drilling through half inch thick steel on a boat trailer with blunt drill bits Laughing
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 12:44 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reed wrote:
Because race car.

Don't be retarded.

A 1992 mk 2 golf is not a race car, it's a cheap boi racer car that doesn't need warming up at all.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 13:55 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heh...... The Jota wont run at all until that big lump of alloy has some heat in it. Want to hear noise? This thing sounds like Thor when its ticking over, let alone when I pull off down my nice terraced street. I'm waiting for the first complaints as I will admit this is a tad excessive, but people seem to live and let live round here.
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reed
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 06 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Reed wrote:
Because race car.

Don't be retarded.

A 1992 mk 2 golf is not a race car, it's a cheap boi racer car that doesn't need warming up at all.


Wow realy? Thanks deekhead...

'Because racecar is a phrase in which questions about cars are answered simply “because racecar”.'
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daemonoid
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

nathan k wrote:
My bike is one of the most important things in my life, I'm not going to risk damaging it because someone doesn't enjoy the smell or sound of a 2 stroke engine.

Luckily my neighbours don't seem to mind, i think. Only noise complaint i've had was when drilling through half inch thick steel on a boat trailer with blunt drill bits Laughing


The problem with that argument is that warming up takes ages at idle, but is much, much quicker at safe revs. The quickest way to warm up a vehicle is to ride/drive it at a gentle pace. Keep it below 2000* and it'll be fine... in fact more than fine, it'll be nice warm and protected.

Worse still, with modern cars with catalytic converters (and probably soon to be all bikes). Idling causes high cat temperatures and dirty exhausts which actually does more damage to expensive parts (obviously not an issue on your two stroke).



*adjust slightly if your vehicle has a really low or high max revs.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I just read through the 2 owners manuals that I have here.

The FZ6 manual says "For maximum engine life never accelerate hard when the engine is cold." so no mention of warming up, just take it easy with a cold engine.

However, the manual for the Pan says "Wait for the temperature gauge needle to move above the C mark before riding." a definite recommendation to let it warm up first.

Personally I pull the bike out of the garage, lock up, start it, put lid on and ride away. They idle for about 30 seconds while I get on and get going. By the time I've got to the first junction the Pan is warm enough for the choke to go off. The FZ6 sorts itself out.

Also the reason instructors tell students to let the bike warm up - because that's what the DSA want us to do.
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G
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PostPosted: 15:12 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember that owners manuals often are authorised by legal departments and have to compensate for the stupidity of 'people'.

So it may be they wanted to say "don't accelerate hard", but were worried that someone would come in with a msahed engine saying "but I only took it to 10k not 12k from cold".
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lihp
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
Also the reason instructors tell students to let the bike warm up - because that's what the DSA want us to do.


The DSA don't want you to have the bike running unless you're sat on it, in the "safety position"
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 08 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

PhilDawson8270 wrote:
The DSA don't want you to have the bike running unless you're sat on it, in the "safety position"


Something (along with a lot of other stuff that is taught during a CBT) that can safely be ignored once you are off on your own.

G wrote:
Remember that owners manuals often are authorised by legal departments and have to compensate for the stupidity of 'people'.


Exactly. Goes to show where the confusion regarding warming the bike up first could come from though.
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almostthere
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 09 Nov 2013    Post subject: warming up Reply with quote

I think it's only necessary to warm your bike up if its a classic bike they used to use syrup for oil which needs warming to get to a liquid state, Whistle
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 23 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

SteveZZR wrote:
Unfortunately he's young.
Actually has at least one friend with a bike, with a much louder can than mine.

Quite amusing to open and close the garage at random times and see the curtains twitch
Maybe point out that his mates bike equally offends you?

Ste wrote:


A 1992 mk 2 golf is not a race car, it's a cheap boi racer car that doesn't need warming up at all.
Actually it's not, that kinda thing is virtually always owned by either a Dubber or a true enthusiast, neither of which are boi racerz. Thumbs Up
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andyscooter
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PostPosted: 10:02 - 26 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

had a similer problem with a neighbour

got bike out of garage put it on the stand started it up

shut door turned engine off take keys out to lock garage door

start bike again

realise ive left gloves in garage so off again open door get gloves close and lock door and restart bike

get on and go

no this neigbour doesnt work and stays up til 4am then sleeps til about 12

more then once i have got home from work to find notes

asking why i keep starting my bike up at stupid times in the morning

(its 7:40am normally )
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 11:03 - 26 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

andyscooter wrote:
had a similer problem with a neighbour...started it up ... start bike again ... restart bike ... get on and go ...

May I suggest 2 sets of keys.
I wouldn't like to keep my house / garage keys with my bike ones as (a) if lost can nick bike and get into house / garage (b) likely to scratch yoke (but that's just me Rolling Eyes ).

I end up with 3 sets (1) Bike (2) Bike locks and (3) House.
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yampug
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 26 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

organise a bcf bike meet at your house get about 30 odd bikes and rev fuck out of them.
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 11:16 - 26 Nov 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

yampug wrote:
organise a bcf bike meet at your house get about 30 odd bikes and rev fuck out of them.

Why? What image do you think that would project? What good would that do a few days/weeks down the road when said bikers aren't there?

...Ah! I see what you did there. Apology for rising to comment on troll post.
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ViniH
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PostPosted: 04:51 - 02 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't had any complaints (yet), but I wanted to jump in here and comment on the whole "let it warm up thing".

Can I assume that the majority of people saying "just start it and go" have automatic choke?

I have a manual choke, and honestly it's like voodoo getting the thing right. I haven't tried riding off with the choke out yet, and I will try this on Wednesday (start it and go).

What's the general consensus on allowing a cold bike to warm up before riding it? Specifically a 12 year old Divvy.

I'm really new to biking so I want to know what I should be doing.

I prefer to let it warm up because after a minute or so (or however long it takes me to close the garage and put my lid on) I can put the choke in completely and ride away more quietly than I would with it out.
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Poseidon
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PostPosted: 06:47 - 02 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

ViniH wrote:
I have a manual choke, and honestly it's like voodoo getting the thing right. I haven't tried riding off with the choke out yet, and I will try this on Wednesday (start it and go).


Both my bikes have manual chokes. Given the fact I live in one of those tightly packed modern housing estates, I tend to not let it warm up before setting off, especially first thing in the morning. The drill is as follows:

Arrow Load bike with stuff.
Arrow Put on my kit.
Arrow Final check I haven't forgotten anything, then get on the bike.
Arrow Choke to start position (different on each bike, about halfway on a moderate morning on the kwak, 3/4 on for the triumph.
Arrow Start the bike and ride off cautiously.
Arrow At the end of the road (about 400yrds) I move the choke to about half it's current position.
Arrow At the next junction, (about 3minutes into the journey) the bike is warm enough to close the choke completely. I continue to ride at a steady pace until the temp needle is in its comfort zone.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 02 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manual chokes on all my ex-bikes.

On my first 125, I did do the "warm up" thing, but the choke was mounted on the carb under the tank (CG125 stylee).

Since then though I've just ridden away, including on the GPz305 with the choke mounted down on the carb. It's as easy to get into a ride-off, choke-off routine as it is to do start-gear-up-choke-off.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 02 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually get mostly ready, then start with choke and whilst it is fast-idling put my helmet and gloves on, gradually knocking the choke off bit at a time as revs begin to rise. My Thundercat won't rev cleanly when it is first started, but the 1 minute it takes to finish getting ready is enough to get the choke fully in and the engine ready to ride. It is by no means 'warmed up' but at least it is rideable.

But then I am Larry Law-Abider and have a road-legal can.
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strike750
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 10 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

my Laverda 750 strike always needs leaving till up to temp otherwise it,s goodbye crank and a personal view of the conrod through the casing some bikes are just like that Sad
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daemonoid
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 11 Dec 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Manual chokes on all my ex-bikes.

On my first 125, I did do the "warm up" thing, but the choke was mounted on the carb under the tank (CG125 stylee).

Since then though I've just ridden away, including on the GPz305 with the choke mounted down on the carb. It's as easy to get into a ride-off, choke-off routine as it is to do start-gear-up-choke-off.


I had an old escort with manual choke. After 2.5 hours of motorway speeds in 4th (top) gear I ended up with a knackered engine.
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