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How to repair engine after snapped chain

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RideLimousin
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Joined: 13 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 14:42 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: How to repair engine after snapped chain Reply with quote
I had a chain snap on me recently (Iris chain -seems to be inevitable!) and unfortunately it took a small chunk of the engine casing with it.

The issue is how to repair as the chunk took out the top sprocket cover bolt hole. I initially tried building up the casing with JB weld and drill and tapping the JB but it seems far too soft to do this. The JB weld just snapped when I tried to cut a thread in it.

The original hole in the case is still there but the top half is missing. Can I fit a thread insert into the now semi circular hole?

Cheers.
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RideLimousin
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Here is a photo: https://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e172/mrteee/2013-10-17165408_zpsb110b55e.jpg?t=1382022778
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lihp
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Take it to a welder to have it filled back up, then drill and tap.
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
As said it need to be tig welded up. Your other option if your in a hurry for it is to file the top of the casing flat, so it appears a lug was never there, then make a new lug that is a lot wider and bolt it to the top of the casing with some fine M4 bolts - loctited of course.

ATB

Gav
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bodger
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
gavcarter wrote:
As said it need to be tig welded up. Your other option if your in a hurry for it is to file the top of the casing flat, so it appears a lug was never there, then make a new lug that is a lot wider and bolt it to the top of the casing with some fine M4 bolts - loctited of course.


Exactly my first thought when I first saw photo of damage. Mind you I am a bodger. Still I think this would work Thumbs Up
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 17 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
bodger wrote:
gavcarter wrote:
As said it need to be tig welded up. Your other option if your in a hurry for it is to file the top of the casing flat, so it appears a lug was never there, then make a new lug that is a lot wider and bolt it to the top of the casing with some fine M4 bolts - loctited of course.


Exactly my first thought when I first saw photo of damage. Mind you I am a bodger. Still I think this would work Thumbs Up


Dont see why not, its only to hold sprocket cover, its not load bearing, but it WILL be subject to vibration so lock/ nuts and / or loctite will be a must
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RideLimousin
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
I think I will go with the TIG option as I want the repair to look as neat as possible. Thanks.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
tig which is electric, so be carefull with those fragile expensive electronics..........
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lihp
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
bikenut wrote:
tig which is electric, so be carefull with those fragile expensive electronics..........


Which form of welding would you suggest that isn't electrical?

I don't think brazing is a very viable option here.
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pits
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PostPosted: 13:19 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
bikenut wrote:
tig which is electric, so be carefull with those fragile expensive electronics..........

Like ARC welding is electrical
Like MIG welding is electrical

Perhaps as Phil says, maybe some brazing, bit of soldering sure it will be sturdy enough Rolling Eyes
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
pits wrote:
bikenut wrote:
tig which is electric, so be carefull with those fragile expensive electronics..........

Like ARC welding is electrical
Like MIG welding is electrical

Perhaps as Phil says, maybe some brazing, bit of soldering sure it will be sturdy enough Rolling Eyes


Brazing could be sturdy enough but highly unpractical on a big casing like this, you cant heat the alloy un-evenly so you would have to wave a gas torch around for quite a while to get the casing hot enough to start brazing a lug on to it.
That is after the whole arse-on of having both pieces so clean that they are practically medically sterile.
Brazing aluminium and similar alloys is also notoriously difficult ( to the DIYer)
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kestrel
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 18 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
RideLimousin wrote:
I think I will go with the TIG option as I want the repair to look as neat as possible. Thanks.


Under normal circumstances a TIG repair and build up like this would only take a few minutes to do and would only require a clean up with a stainless wire brush and a solvent wash before welding. The fact that you have attempted a JB Weld repair changes things dramatically.
Before welding it will now be necessary to remove every trace of the filler from the weld area, and that does mean every trace. Aluminium casings are very easy to repair using 4043 or 5356 TIG filler wires but neither will tolerate even the smallest amount of contamination in the weld area.
As far as the bikes electronics are concerned, disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU before welding.
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Welshd1k
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PostPosted: 00:44 - 19 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Or just leave it ? And use the other bolt to mount it
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
kestrel wrote:
RideLimousin wrote:
I think I will go with the TIG option as I want the repair to look as neat as possible. Thanks.


Under normal circumstances a TIG repair and build up like this would only take a few minutes to do and would only require a clean up with a stainless wire brush and a solvent wash before welding. The fact that you have attempted a JB Weld repair changes things dramatically.
Before welding it will now be necessary to remove every trace of the filler from the weld area, and that does mean every trace. Aluminium casings are very easy to repair using 4043 or 5356 TIG filler wires but neither will tolerate even the smallest amount of contamination in the weld area.
As far as the bikes electronics are concerned, disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU before welding.


In theory, the 'harm' welding does is due to the electromagnetic field 'set up' when an arc is generated. When the arc stops the electromagnetic field breaks down/collapses and it is this effect which works the same way as 'coil induction' principle and 'can' fry electrics.

So anything sensitive can be subjected to massive voltage spikes.

The only certain way is to remove anything sensitive. i.e. most transistorised/solid state or microchip sort of stuff. To be sure.

Most cases attaching the earth right next to the weld area should be enough but removing a good ECU is easier than buying and fitting a new one. Smile

I know we were often asked to remove battery cables from equipment before welding but even then we may get one or two cases of a blown regulator in alternators. Not all the time but enough times for it to be an issue.
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 12:31 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
Check everything along the line the chain travels.

my mates chain snapped @ 120mph.
It took out the swingarm along with the water pump and rear fairing.

Torsten, what bike is it?
Make, model and year please.
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Welshd1k
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 20 Oct 2013    Post subject: Reply with quote
guess its a Honda 600 of some flavour maby hornet
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Old Thread Alert!

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