Non o-Ring chain better choice for 33bhp restriction?

[Rob1970]

I have a restricted CBF600
No I'm not going to lose the washers till my time is up


OK

I have heard that non o-ring chains are more efficient due to less friction = a little bit more grunt on my restricted bike yes?

I know they wear quicker but I'm no longer commuting (made redundent boo!) so don't use the bike nearly as much

Plus they are cheaper (wemoto lists a standard chain and sprockets at £58)
Plus they come with a clip link so no need for a tool that I don't have.

Remember this is not a 150hp sports bike so what do you guys reckon?

[P.]

Personally, I'd run whatever on that, X, O... neither will make any difference with regards to the actual bike.

[G]

A colour matched 'racing' (sic) chain will do you more good, I reckon .

No really; the biggest difference I reckon will be psychological, so might as well do it properly with some bling!

If you want more power but not all of it, grind the washers out very slightly.

You could always give someone a fat blob of money to do it .

Do you actually need a new chain now?

[Pete.]

Don't skimp on a chain. The issue isn't with the amount of power your bike makes - my turbo bike has a non o-ring chain - the problem is keeping the lube within the pins and rollers. Any small reduction in losses from not having o-rings will quickly be off-set by looses from vastly accelerated wear.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[The other Paul Rudd]

[janner_10]

You are over thinking it - get the best chain you can afford - buy cheap and it will be shit. I've learnt from past experience sadly.
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Yamaha FZS600 (Now gone to heaven) > CBR600F4i (SOLD) > '99 YZF-R1

[J.M.]

My restricted GS500 munched its way through an RK chain with no O or X rings in <3000 miles. It required frequent adjustment too because it wore so quickly. It didn't help that I didn't clean/lube it frequently enough.

With a good quality DID, my XJ600 chain hasn't required adjusting at all over the course of 3000 miles. It's still in top condition.

Get the best chain you can afford. You're probably looking around £100 for a good chain and sprockets set. You'll likely not need to change them again in the time that you own the bike, if you clean and lube it properly!
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[Ste]

[temeluchus]

I suspect the difference is tiny between sealed and unsealed chains.

DID NZ plain chain is the best bet if you want a o-ringless chain. The main disadvantage is they require frequent cleaning to get any miles out of them as shit can get into the links easily.

plain chains do benefit from a chain oiler, if fitted.
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Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM!

[Kickstart]

Hi

Good non O ring chain in good condition is a bit more efficient at transmitting power than an O ring chain. But doubt you could notice the difference, And it will wear more quickly and so its efficiency will drop off more rapidly

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[Wafer_Thin_Ham]

[orac]

[P.]

Surely it depends on how you deliver said power to rear wheel?

[orac]