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Yamaha YBR 125 2008 - Removing/Replacing Ignition Switch

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simonjb
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 08 Jan 2014    Post subject: Yamaha YBR 125 2008 - Removing/Replacing Ignition Switch Reply with quote

Hi there, recently (ever since the start of winter) I've been getting an error code 19 when trying to start my 2008 YBR 125 Fuel Injection (the bike won't start) and I know this is due to a faulty connection between the ignition switch and the ECU (the black and white wire).

However, my problem is with the ignition switch itself - the ECU only gets the signal and allows the bike to start if the key is moved into a certain exact position, so a fault with the ignition switch.

I found that applying switch cleaner into the key hole actually temporarily fixes the issue, and in the past, taking a hair dryer to the keyhole (holding it open with a small screwdriver) has resolved the issue. As I keep my bike under a cover, lots of condensation and some rain gets in, and I think this water may be the cause of my problems.

I need to take the ignition switch off to either replace it (if it is faulty somehow) or dry it out indoors, so could anyone give me some tips on how to do this - the hayne's manual is a bit vague on the subject. Thanks!
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 08 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Not sure if it's the same on the YBR but ignition locks are usually held on with tamper-proof bolts. These bolts have heads that are designed to snap off once tightened so that thiefs can't get to the back of it easily. I find the easiest way is to remove the top yoke, complete with switch, get it in a vice, or even better a drill press, and drill the bolts out. I don't bother to re-use tamper-proof bolts but they are available from Yamaha if you want to.


Yeah it is held on with shear offs, I'm gonna get the headlight off on the weekend and try getting a better look at the bottom to see if I can remove the bottom of housing (it looks from the side like there are some kind of clips). I think my brother said the ignition on the Honda CBF 125 can be partially taken out with the key in the lock, but I'm not sure about my YBR. If I can dry it out and improvise some kind of water proofing without taking it out it might be a lot easier - hoping it is just water!
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Current Bike: 2008 Yamaha YBR 125
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 08 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
You may find someone has tried to nick the bike at some time by jamming a screwdriver or similar into the lock...... and messed it up.


I hope it's not the case, but if it is just faulty/tampered with, gonna have to order one, I think they're between 30-40 quid on ebay. If I can dry it out and get it working consistently, I'll find some kind of cap or seal to cover the keyhole with, and see if it comes back - if it does I'll just replace the darn thing!
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 09 Jan 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The switch appears to be faulty so it might be worth just ordering a new one. Trouble is they all have the wrong connector - mine is a 2008 so it should have a 3 wire spade connector + 1 separate wire (to the ECU) - but for some reason mine has the "4 spade block" connector which I think is supposed to be for the 2005/2006?

I could just order the wrong connector (as there isn't another one available), but I saw an ancient thread on here talking about it popping fuses. I don't fancy wasting 40 quid and waiting another week, I'll know if it's internally wired right when I get it, but any advice before I order it?

EDIT:
Change of plan - found out a 12v relay, going to connect the relay power to the working red/brown wire (whichever turns on with the ignition) and connect the black/white and black wire to the relay so that they are connected when the ignition is on - saves taking out the ignition barrel as at least the red/brown connection is working fine!
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simonjb
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 11 Jan 2014    Post subject: [Resolved] Reply with quote

Fixed the issue using the relay, as red/brown connection works fine! Thanks for the advice, just glad I didn't have to drill out the ignition barrel as it's really hard to get the right replacement part - most are 1-ON 2-OFF switches which would never work.
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