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Making your own screen?

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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Making your own screen? Reply with quote

I want to make a small screen for my XJ6. I have some 3mm perspex which im assuming will be ok to use. Has anyone else made their own screen? Also is there a particular angle that screens work best at or is it different for different bikes? Are there any design factors I should be aware of? Thanks.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a flat slab of perspex, or are you going to bend and shape it?

Angles - tricky and depend on you height, curve on the screen etc. You could end up directing the air flow straight at your head rather than over it.
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to make a flat one first with perhaps just a little right to left curve. Then when I think I have achieved a satisfactory angle make another but make a former with clay and use a hot air gun to mold the perspex to the former.

i've also noticed some screen have deliberate gaps or holes at the bottom leading edge. What's that about?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can probably clamp 3mm perpsex on a moderate single curve quite easily without heat.
Compound curves are tricky.
I've made a few flip ups for screens from recycled perspex
with mixed success and here s few things and f*ck ups I did

Cutting:
Attacking it with an electric jigsaw I found the blade got the material so hot
it 'healed' itself in an ugly way after the blade passed and was still prone to clogging and snapping
For outside curves I ended up using an angle grinder and sanding disc and this worked well
Do it outside though, mucho dust

Drilling:
not too close to edges, support the material, go easy
tape over the hole may help prevent cracks

Bending/heating:
easy does it.
I used a common heat gun normally used for paintstripping
keep moving the nozzle about, dont hold it steady
The perspex I used heated up and got to a workable softness
But, I found too much heat caused it to go crazed and milky and this wont polish out so effectively ruins the bloody thing
oh sodding bollocks!

A jig or former is good idea
I used my welding gloves and big stupid fingers to get compound curves and it looked err 'rustic'
if its too hot the material will take on the surface texture of what its touching
Great if you like the rustic look, otherwise embarrasingly shite.

Basically: play with it and be prepared to make mistakes
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G
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Re: Making your own screen? Reply with quote

I've made an 'adventure' screen for my KTM from 6mm lexan - just kept it flat.

I made a curved screen for my R6... from a carpet tile I had lying around. Did the job as well as other 'black' screens you get Smile.
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boozehawk wrote:
i've also noticed some screen have deliberate gaps or holes at the bottom leading edge. What's that about?


The gaps allow some air through which is supposed to help equalise pressure on each side of the screen and reduce buffeting... apparently.

On a large screen like I have on the Pan I think it may make a difference. For a small screen like you are going to make I probably wouldn't bother.
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boozehawk wrote:
i've also noticed some screen have deliberate gaps or holes at the bottom leading edge. What's that about?

It's so your ticket for the eurotunnel blows away shortly after you get past the ticket counter.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
[stuffs]

Bingo, all correct.

Take it easy with the heat, keep moving it around, and don't try and force the perspex until it's ready. When it does get to the right heat, it'll soften right up and bend under its own weight. Arrange the piece to let gravity do the work, i.e. put your bend line along the edge of a workbench and just let it droop to shape.

A jigsaw will indeed melt the cut partially closed behind it, but I still find it faster to jigsaw, snap, and clean up than to cut with a hacksaw by hand, and less fraught than trying to score and snap. Pro-tip is to file off the crud, then run a flame around the edge and it'll smooth out and clear up. You can also ameliorate any accidental scores that get into it by applying heat.

Actually, I was between heat guns when I did the screen for my GS, so it was heated over a camping stove, because adding fire makes everything better. I wouldn't recommend that if you're fussy as I got a few bubbles in it, but it does work.
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 06 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers thanks for the advice. I have worked with perspex, back in artschool twentysix years ago (!!!gasp!!!). We had a vacuum table with a hood with electric heating elements. Wish I had access to one now would make tthe process so simpler. We used to cut finished work from a sheet using an angle grinder with a well worn out small disc or a router. I have a small dremel type router so im going to try that for cutting out. We used to use heat guns for finishing off but a hot iron for thin perspex actually was easier to use less likely to get bubbles or crazing.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 08 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're making a small fly screen, why not just buy a helmet visor.
They come in loads of colours, they're pre-curved and shatter proof.
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