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ybr 125 19 error code , 1 long flash 9 short flashes

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ry johnston
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Feb 2014
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 08 Feb 2014    Post subject: ybr 125 19 error code , 1 long flash 9 short flashes Reply with quote

Hi been having an intermittent fault with my 2009 efi ybr but this last time seems to have stopped it for good , when I try to start it, it just spins over and seems to electrically cut out. I've read up a bit and I think it's a fault between cdi and ignition? Could this be true? I've stripped the tank and side panels off ect but is there a better way than stripping out and checking every connection? Every one I have done so far seems to be rust free and looks as new (I've started in the headlight) any help/ advice would be great
Cheers
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ry johnston
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Feb 2014
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 08 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is also no spark from the plug, could this be cdi?
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BillyJ
Nearly there...



Joined: 07 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 08 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Error code 19...

yamahaclub.com wrote:

Yes, you have a fault code 19 - basically a problem with the black and white wire (or its connectors at either end) between the ignition switch and the ECU.

It might be easiest to start at the ignition switch working back to the ECU.

The ECU itself is located within a rubber mount on the top frame tube under the tank about 6" or so back from the headstock.
To remove the tank you'll need to remove the rear tank bolt (12mm), the link bar between the two black plastic air scoops attached to the underside of the tank(10mm), the lower fuel pipe that feeds the injector - remove small crosshead security screw, lift away plastic shroud to release the safety tab (push upwards)to access the two release buttons which need to be pressed in together to release the pipe from the injector unit. A small amount of fuel will leak from the pipe. As you lift the tank you can unclip the feed to the fuel pump. Do not lift the tank up too high or ypou wil ldamge it against the bearing cover located on top of the steering head column.

Having removed the tank which should take you no longer than 5 mins, you can then try and locate the problem Sad


EDIT:
ry johnston wrote:
There is also no spark from the plug, could this be cdi?


Check HT leads, and test the resistance of the coil.

It's unlikely to be the CDI, If it's a sealed black box it probably still works.

Good luck Thumbs Up
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simonjb
Nova Slayer



Joined: 04 May 2013
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 09 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Error code 19 is a problem between the ignition switch and the ECU. Had this recently on my YBR, in most cases its a faulty ignition barrel, so try wiggling the key into different positions before starting to see if this is the problem. It tends to occur in winter where there's lot of condensation or rain in the barrel. For a quick fix, try squirting switch cleaner into the keyhole and letting it settle for 5 mins, then try again.

The other thing it could be is the wire between the switch/barrel and the ECU. If you have a haynes manual, look through removing the headlight beam unit (the front bit of the headlight, not the actually mounts - should be 2 small screws on the rim of the headlight). Behind there you should be able to find a black & white wire (striped). Check the continuity or resistance of the black/white wire against the black wire (they should both be in the same connector, OR there should be a connector and a seperate spade connector for the black/white wire - this depends on your model).

When the ignition is switched ON you should see very little resistance (or have continuity) between the black/white and black wires. If this is fine, then trace the black/white wire back to the ECU under the tank and ensure it is connected.

If you don't see any connection/continuity between the two wires when the ignition is on, it is likely to be the ignition switch. You can test this by taking a spare piece of wire, and shorting between the black/white and black wires (stick the wires in the connector), THEN turn the ignition on and try to start the bike; if it starts fine you've found the problem.

If your problem is the ignition switch, you can either REPLACE it (they tend to be difficult to find the right type, the ones on ebay don't work I think), or do what I did and connect an automotive relay to get around it - ask about this once you've done the above.

Note: The lack of spark is likely the ECU cutting power to it, as this is one of the ways the ECU stops the engine.
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