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What do I need to change my pads?

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: What do I need to change my pads? Reply with quote

I have brake cleaner, I'll be picking a set of pads up ( any recommendations? nissin calipers on ZZR)

What else do I need to do the job properly?
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got EBC HH in mine. when you get the pads out give it a scrub with an old toothbrush, I've also got a cheap piston pusher thingy-majig from ebay to help push the pistons back into the caliper to get the new pads in.

My pads work well. So that's my experience on nissin brakes and ZZR
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Re: What do I need to change my pads? Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
I have brake cleaner, I'll be picking a set of pads up ( any recommendations? nissin calipers on ZZR)

What else do I need to do the job properly?


Cheap tesco value toothbrushes help, red rubber/silicone grease for the pistons and copper slip for the pads.

You'll also need a spanner/socket set to remove the calipers and maybe an allen key to remove the pad retaining pin.

A G clamp can be helpful if the pistons are a bit stiff.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

So un-bolt caliper from bike,
Un bolt pad retaining bolts
Drop pads out
Spray with brake cleaner and scrub with old tooth brush,
Spot of grease on piston sides, copper slip on back of pad which will hopefully fit between pistons,
Fasten retaining bolts,
Fasten back on bike

Or have I missed anything?
Best place to get pads?
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Steven8294
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you need to bleed the brake aswell, so you would need some DOT4 brake fluid to fill the res. back up.

*EDIT*
Just realised, I only bled my brakes because we disconnected the brake line - apologies you might not need to.
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 13:53 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Re: What do I need to change my pads? Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
...What else do I need to do the job properly?

Have a read at MCN's tutorial...
click here for the link.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I changed my pads the Nurse helped.
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Mr Calendar



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PostPosted: 14:15 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
...Spot of grease on piston sides, copper slip on back of pad which will hopefully fit between pistons, ...
Or have I missed anything?
...

Might be best to push pistons out a little prior to cleaning. Then use red grease on rubbers. Then push pistons back in (using old pad and pressing or better with G-clamp mentioned above). This will ensure new pads with more meat on them fits either side of disc. Then copper grease on back of pad and fit pins and bolts.

That's what I do anyhow. A little extra work but makes the job easier in the long run.

Don't forget copper grease on pins and bolts prior to refit. Makes doing the job next time sooooo much easier.


Skudd wrote:
When I changed my pads the Nurse helped.
So you either pay the extra for a decent nursing home or that's an insight to a fetish I'd rather not discuss Wink Very Happy
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gbrand42
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also worth loosening the pad retaining pin a bit before you unbolt the caliper, just makes thing a bit easier if its a tight one or the copperslip was not used on the pins last time
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_mjs_
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a couple of points:

Make sure you loosen the retaining pins before taking off the caliper, it just makes life easier. They are screw in allens on Nissins

Don't cheap out when buying brake pads. I put pyramid parts pads on mine and they are utter wank in the rain Thumbs Up
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Snorty
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also pump the lever a few times so you don't crash on your first outing. ~200kg of machine is remarkably hard to stop even at 5-10mph.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snorty wrote:
Also pump the lever a few times so you don't crash on your first outing. ~200kg of machine is remarkably hard to stop even at 5-10mph.


Why am I pumping, to get the pad / piston sat near the disc and not have the lever come right to the bar?
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Moxey
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 20 Feb 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Sheep wrote:
Snorty wrote:
Also pump the lever a few times so you don't crash on your first outing. ~200kg of machine is remarkably hard to stop even at 5-10mph.


Why am I pumping, to get the pad / piston sat near the disc and not have the lever come right to the bar?


Yes, you'd be surprised how many pumps it takes of the lever to get the piston to contact the pad then to the disc when they're pushed right back, not that many but enough to cause buttock clenching if you aren't expecting it.
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