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| DiscoBiscuit |
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DiscoBiscuit
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 Posted: 16:49 - 16 Mar 2014  Post subject: Re: NSR125 JC20 Clutch Won't Disengage |
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| DiscoBiscuit wrote: | Hi, I've got a 1991 JC20 that came with a clutch that won't disengage.
I've taken the clutch cover (right hand crankcase) off and freed the clutch plates that seemed to be sticking a little. However I don't have a torque wrench so I cannot torque the clutch springs to the right torque, I did read online that the torque is roughly middle finger comfortably on a 6" spanner but when you tighten one bolt they all come loose again so I'm not sure If I'm doing this correctly. I know it's not the clutch cable that needs adjusting as the clutch arm that goes into the crankcase moves ok. Any ideas how I could get the clutch to disengage?
Edit: The bike has been sat for around a year and has done 44,000 miles. I've not actually taken the clutch off as I don't have the tool, instead seperated them using a screwdriver.
Thanks, |
What are the fingers like on the clutch basket? If you run your fingers down the prongs thast the teeth from the clutch plates sit it, are there steps? You can try smoothing these down if they aren't too bad.
Are the clutch springs within tolerance?
Also, even though the catuator arm is moving from the outside, doesn't necessarily mean it's disengaging the clutch. Are all parts definitely there, can you find a parts Microfiche? Sometimes there's a little ball bearing that gets lost on the end of the actuator arm.
This is the schematic from a 1990 NSR125F Italina model, but they might have your exact year too....
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nsr125f-1990-italykph_model3538/partslist/E__0500.html#results
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Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG. |
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DiscoBiscuit
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Super Spammer
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| Posted: 17:30 - 16 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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| DiscoBiscuit wrote: | Thanks for the reply mpd,
I haven't actually taken the clutch off so it's hard to inspect the clutch fingers as it is.
I'm also not sure how to check if the clutch springs are worn out but I'll have a look.
The bearing on the actuator arm is there and it doesn't look like anything is missing.
The schematic you linked looks the same as mine so that's helpful thanks.
I've also been wondering if it needs transmission oil in the crankcases to operate or if it will work without obviously the bike isn't being run as I've drained both the oil and the coolant to access the clutch.
It's looking like I'll be buying a clutch tool to inspect the clutch, 44k miles on a 125 is quite high and I'm not too sure if the clutch has ever been replaced so the plates might just be worn out and in need of replacement? |
You'll only need a clutch holding tool to remove the basket itself. You'll be able to get the clutch centre and plates out whilst still leaving the basket in place. I'd do that first, make sure the previous owner hasn't forgotten to put a part back in and check the basket fingers. If the basket has grooves down the fingers where the plate teeth have eaten into it, try cleaning them up with wet and dry.
Is there a mark on the crankcases to show where the actautor arm should be when at rest? On the TZR250/TDR250 we have a couple of lines which the front of the actuator arm should sit when the cover is back on. As the actautor arm will move as you tighten up the case, it's usually easier to remove the arm from the spline, then put it back on once the cover's back on. It should normally sit pointing out at 90 degrees to the side of the case, if it's anything like most small cable clutch 2 strokes. If the arm isn't on correctly it can cause the issue you describe.
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TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG. |
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DiscoBiscuit
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DiscoBiscuit
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Posted: 18:05 - 19 Mar 2014  Post subject: |
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Boo shaka, The clutch is now operational!
For anyone who might have been interested the inner clutch plates were completely seized so I cleaned them up and soaked them in oil. The fingers do look a little worn but it seemed to work fine so I might just leave them.  |
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| Posted: 20:19 - 19 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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Nice one! 
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Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Sport R, VW Transporter T5 GP LWB Shuttle 140ps DSG. |
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| skatefreak |
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skatefreak
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| Posted: 10:00 - 20 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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Clutch removal tool?
Just done a full rebuild (top&bottom) without any specialised tools aside a castle nut socket made from a 21mm socket?
To stop the clutch basket rotating just put some cardboard between some of the cogs, jobs'a good'un
-Jvr |
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| DiscoBiscuit |
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DiscoBiscuit
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| Posted: 10:37 - 20 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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Centre Clutch Holder is probably what I should have said, I cba fucking about with grinding sockets down so I just bought one for £14.  Looks like there's one on the swingarm too which is a different size, typical... |
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| skatefreak |
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skatefreak
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| DiscoBiscuit |
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DiscoBiscuit
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| Posted: 11:19 - 20 Mar 2014 Post subject: |
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Might give the swing arm castle nut a try myself then cheers for that. I've got a flywheel puller so sorted in that department |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 287 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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