pass light breaking my fuse

[RogueCarl]

Hi all,

On my 2001 ER5 I have a dual headlight system with two H4 bulbs in. I only recently changed the second to a H4 as the previous owner had a poor LED bulb in it.
Essentially, the full beam works just fine unless I use the pass light, which blows the fuse for the headlights.

My thoughts; is there a resistor for the pass switch that's the wrong spec? The wiring for the pass switch is too high ampage? I doubt the latter though.

The Haynes isn't being of much help to a new kid like myself, and I bet some real expertise will know straight away what this is.

Thanks in advance

[WD Forte]

Dont know the ER5
guesses:
not using proper rated fuse?
Fault in the pass switch which is shorting to ground when used ?
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[RogueCarl]

Thanks,
I've checked the fuse and it matches up fine. As for the switch itself, that is certainly plausible but on the basis that it worked fine with the other bulb I shouldn't think so?
Carl.

[stinkwheel]

Something deeply screwy is happening here.


Under normnal circumstances:

A short between the fuse box and the switch would cause it to blow immediately when the bike is turned on.

A short between the pass switch and the bulb would cause the fuse to blow any time the lights are on high beam.

So. It's either an internal short in the switch itself or between the switch and the connector block OR someone's been fucking with it.

Given the fact it has non-standard lights fitted, I'd be going with the latter.

To check the former, you're looking at the black and red wires in the short bit of loom between the switchgear and it's connector block. One of them is from the full beam switch, the other is from the "pass" switch. They should both go into the same terminal in the connector block. It's a short piece of wire, any breaks should be obvious, it might have become detached from the terminal and be floating about (that's about the only logical thing I can think of).

If there is no kawasaki connecftor block on the end of that switchgear or you have scotchlocks hanging about there, you're in trouble and it's going to be almost impossable to troubleshoot via the internet.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[RogueCarl]

That there sounds like a very possible option! Thank you

I'll pull it apart as soon as I can (tomorrow hopefully) and get back to y'all.

Any suggestions in the meantime then please shout out as I can check all options at once then.

Carl

[bugeye_bob]

as you have increased the load what size fuse do you have in ?

[bamt]

I'd check the fuse value too. When you put full beam on normally, the dipped beam is turned off. Pass puts both filaments on, so lots more current.

H4 is 60/55W, so two of them with both filaments on is 330W, meaning a minimum of a 30A fuse is needed.

Edit - rubbish maths! 115W per bulb, 230W not 330W! So 20A minimum, probably actually 25A.

[stinkwheel]

[bamt]