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Symon27
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Zzr 600 Reply with quote

Picking up a 99 zzr 600 this weekend and just seeing if anyone knows any worthwhile mods?
It's already got cbr calipers and braided lines, dyno jet kit fitted and a halogen rear shock.
Bikes got 45k but in top condition. Took it for a test drive and everything was fine, put it in secound and gave it some throttle and no jumping out of gear.
I'm thinking of a double bubble screen, raise the rear and then do a service it.
Anyone no of anymore?
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 11:41 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the Hagon shock (definitely not a halogen) and the Nissin brakes. To be honest that's all you would need.

If you raise the rear you'll affect the handling a bit so I've read so other things would need messing with too.

Get some pictures on when you get it!
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Symon27
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

snoosnoo wrote:
I got the Hagon shock (definitely not a halogen) and the Nissin brakes. To be honest that's all you would need.

If you raise the rear you'll affect the handling a bit so I've read so other things would need messing with too.

Get some pictures on when you get it!

Auto correct lol, yeah it's got a hagon shock.
Any known problems with them? I know the engines are bullet proof and have seen some with over 60k on them.
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a good forum you can find on the internet that is for zzr and international. I don't want to direct link because I'm not sure of the rules but on there are some people who will know everything about these bikes.

Mine is a 95 E3 at 34k. My regulator went once, but that happens on many bikes anyway.

Get some crash bungs put on because in the event of a drop on the RHS your clutch cover will get beaten and oil will begin to leak and clutch covers are like rocking horse sh!te.

Some say the second gear can go but think that was more the D models, at least I haven't read anything about an E gearbox going soft over the past couple of years.

The engines can go much longer than 60k if serviced and you not ragging them from cold.
Have the valves been checked recently? If the seller doesn't know, I'd probably do it. I'm gonna be doing mine soon.
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Symon27
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PostPosted: 12:11 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

snoosnoo wrote:
There is a good forum you can find on the internet that is for zzr and international. I don't want to direct link because I'm not sure of the rules but on there are some people who will know everything about these bikes.

Mine is a 95 E3 at 34k. My regulator went once, but that happens on many bikes anyway.

Get some crash bungs put on because in the event of a drop on the RHS your clutch cover will get beaten and oil will begin to leak and clutch covers are like rocking horse sh!te.

Some say the second gear can go but think that was more the D models, at least I haven't read anything about an E gearbox going soft over the past couple of years.

The engines can go much longer than 60k if serviced and you not ragging them from cold.
Have the valves been checked recently? If the seller doesn't know, I'd probably do it. I'm gonna be doing mine soon.

Cheers, he mentioned that it had a 40k service, but has no proof, seems like a genuine guy but im still going a oil and filter.
How hard the valves? I did my bandits no problem but its naked so everything is easy to get to.
Any tips for working on it?
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm far from a pro regarding working on bikes but I think it's quite easy. You can work on the top end without taking fairings off, all you need it to remove the tank with 3 bolts (2 by the handlebars, 1 by the battery) and remove the fuel sender and fuel pipe.

Then airbox off and you're at the carbs n shizz. That's as far as I have been so far at the top to do plug swap and carb balancing but I've never worked on anything before getting this bike. I've got a Haynes manual PDF if you want it mailing to you? PM your email and I'll send it over.

I stripped the sump bolt thread stupidly so I also took the headers, exhaust and oil sump off and replaced in a few hours. IMO easy to work on.

oooh - does it have stainless steel headers? it must do at 45k otherwise they'll be holier than Jesus I reckon.
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Symon27
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

snoosnoo wrote:
I'm far from a pro regarding working on bikes but I think it's quite easy. You can work on the top end without taking fairings off, all you need it to remove the tank with 3 bolts (2 by the handlebars, 1 by the battery) and remove the fuel sender and fuel pipe.

Then airbox off and you're at the carbs n shizz. That's as far as I have been so far at the top to do plug swap and carb balancing but I've never worked on anything before getting this bike. I've got a Haynes manual PDF if you want it mailing to you? PM your email and I'll send it over.

I stripped the sump bolt thread stupidly so I also took the headers, exhaust and oil sump off and replaced in a few hours. IMO easy to work on.

oooh - does it have stainless steel headers? it must do at 45k otherwise they'll be holier than Jesus I reckon.

Cheers for that, yeah got stainless steel down pipes.
Will send my email in abit.
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_mjs_
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome bikes, had mine a year now and done 12,000 miles on it and in that time it's had a speedo cable and a new rear calliper (pad pin got stuck).

I normally change bikes every year but I'm just going to keep this one and run it into the ground.

Sounds like yours is already sorted brakes and suspension wise so you have little to worry about Thumbs Up
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the rear end jacked up for a while, but ended up selling the 1100D dogbones which I had used to do so. It makes both wheels touch the ground when on the centrestand, so you need to put a bit of wood underneath. I'm kinda of the opinion that when it comes to the ZZR, if you want faster handling etc then you're better with going for a ZX6R.

I certainly don't think 60k is enough from a ZZR tbh.

Valve clearances imo are a bastard to change, just because I hate shims under buckets and having to remove cams, but then again I've got a couple of bikes like this so just put up with it and get on with it.

My cam chain is needing replaced soon at around 35k, as the tensioner is on its last click unfortunately.
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Symon27
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluezedd wrote:
I had the rear end jacked up for a while, but ended up selling the 1100D dogbones which I had used to do so. It makes both wheels touch the ground when on the centrestand, so you need to put a bit of wood underneath. I'm kinda of the opinion that when it comes to the ZZR, if you want faster handling etc then you're better with going for a ZX6R.

I certainly don't think 60k is enough from a ZZR tbh.

Valve clearances imo are a bastard to change, just because I hate shims under buckets and having to remove cams, but then again I've got a couple of bikes like this so just put up with it and get on with it.

My cam chain is needing replaced soon at around 35k, as the tensioner is on its last click unfortunately.

I would get the zx6r but the insurance want to rip me a new one.
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johnsmith222
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Symon27 wrote:
bluezedd wrote:
I had the rear end jacked up for a while, but ended up selling the 1100D dogbones which I had used to do so. It makes both wheels touch the ground when on the centrestand, so you need to put a bit of wood underneath. I'm kinda of the opinion that when it comes to the ZZR, if you want faster handling etc then you're better with going for a ZX6R.

I certainly don't think 60k is enough from a ZZR tbh.

Valve clearances imo are a bastard to change, just because I hate shims under buckets and having to remove cams, but then again I've got a couple of bikes like this so just put up with it and get on with it.

My cam chain is needing replaced soon at around 35k, as the tensioner is on its last click unfortunately.

I would get the zx6r but the insurance want to rip me a new one.


Yeah, that's understandable. The ZZR600 is a decent bike and as you have a decent shock on the rear and decent brakes then you've got pretty much all the weaknesses sorted.

Fitting the ZZR1100 dogbones jacks up the rear to this level as can be seen when I had it on my bike:

https://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a324/david_m213/zzr.jpg

Jacking up the rear makes the chain foul the linkpipes of the exhuast also, if you don't have your weight on the bike. It did improve handling a bit having it jacked up though.

One thing that it does that could be of concern, is that your front tyre "chicken strips" will go down, even if you don't change your riding before and after fitting. The bike leans over much further when it's on the side stand too.

Also, don't get a corbin seat for this particular model. They're shit and make you feel like you're sitting on your prostate(assuming you have one). Or you can buy mine for 50 pounds + P&P, but tbh if i were you I wouldn't bother.
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll join in with the photo whoring
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/395731_10152525953050258_378110526_n.jpg
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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_mjs_
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might as well join in...

https://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u587/mjs1066/20130701_073710_zps5d70ef9b.jpg
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeh, i'll get in on this:

https://i60.tinypic.com/3025dg5.jpg


I've got a few parts kicking around at the moment, give us a shout if you need anything and I'll have a look if I've got it[/img]
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't be the only one with the tarty Gold Nissins?

Embarassed


Middle Finger
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wizzzard
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see your ZZR

https://s27.postimg.org/b8iez8d8z/zxr6001.jpg

And raise you another ZZR

https://s29.postimg.org/fcz1q4j2v/IMG_91312.jpg

Second one has 65,000 + on it and still goes well, albeit now without the fuel pump fitted Laughing
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mic
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PostPosted: 11:18 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go on then if everyone else is

22k miles, 99 plate. Might take double bubble off as it looks a bit naff although does make a difference

https://i547.photobucket.com/albums/hh470/mic8310/0EFB042C-F0FB-49FB-BBF1-C61DDE546239_zpswiyaqe0p.jpg
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine shows 33k but no idea if that's for the bike or just the frame as it came with a spare engine (sold)

Ive got a double bubble on it but wondering if a flip would be better
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

DivvyNumbarse wrote:
https://i60.tinypic.com/10x80ar.png

Don't forget to wipe it down with meths after installing it, it will burn out quickly if there is any grease on it.

https://i.imgur.com/aczCfl7.jpg

My sisters zzr, which I've got while she is back at home from uni, framed by my gn.
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_mjs_
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

snoosnoo wrote:
I can't be the only one with the tarty Gold Nissins?

Embarassed


Middle Finger


I've got them (and a gold caliper on the back for extra tart factor). They look good with the silver fairing Thumbs Up

https://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u587/mjs1066/20140417_185113_zps6aae6a67.jpg

Which bit of Leeds are you from? Never seen your bike about.
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Last edited by _mjs_ on 19:06 - 17 Apr 2014; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:43 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Some E model 2nd gears are weak as well. Heard that at some point it was improved but not a clue whether that is true or if so when.

Silly problem is that when the clutch cable snaps there is nothing holding the operating arm in place. And as that hangs down it can slip out, followed by a load of the oil.

Dropping the forks out is a pain. Just because of how close the yoke bolts are to the air intakes.

All the best

Keith
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

_mjs_ wrote:
snoosnoo wrote:
I can't be the only one with the tarty Gold Nissins?

Embarassed


Middle Finger


I've got them (and a gold caliper on the back for extra tart factor). They look good with the silver fairing Thumbs Up

https://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u587/mjs1066/20140417_185113_zps6aae6a67.jpg

Which bit of Leeds are you from? Never seen your bike about.


Ive been considering a gold rear caliper, is yours a himax by any chance? Ive got a seal hanging out of my rear but it still works but will probably by a himax for 40 quid than bother rebuilding. Will prpbably do it on the side for some experience.

I'm in Morley now, did live in Hyde Park for a while but its a hole!! Only ride to the uni and back. Im always keeping my eye out for other zzrs but i havent seen you either
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_mjs_
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah it's a Himax, no complaints really it does what it's supposed to!

I'm in Bramley myself but moving up to North Leeds in the not too distant future. If I'm going for a spin it's usually up along the A65 somewhere towards the Dales.

I don't get out to Morley much but if we do cross paths I'll be sure to nod at you Laughing
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