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CountArthurSt...
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 03 May 2014
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 06 May 2014    Post subject: Paint School Reply with quote

Hi,
Anyone out there have any experience of DIY paint jobs. I'm kidna new to all this paint stuff, so i could do with some advice.

Backgroud:
My KLX250 had a few paint chips on the frame (matalic silver) I sanded down the spots to base metal and applied an etching primer. After much trial and error of got the base coat (phantom silver) on and looking good. what the next step. I looked online and there seems to be a bucket load of advise

should I
1) wet sound the metalic paint (with say 1200 grit) some say yes, some say no
2) just use panel wipe and remove any loose flakes.
3) do nothing at all


Next step the clear coat...here's the problem:

what the best way to cleat coat using aerosol cans

1) all in one go...one thick coat
2) build it up layer by layer

Being new to all this, i got some coke cans and prepped them up to match the frame (primer. base coat etc).

When i tried to clear coat, ....something happened, the surface became wrinkly. any idea why (see pic) I don't want this to happen to the frame...


Cheers
Steve
____________________
Count Arthur Strong - Call the St Anns Johnbulance
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stirlinggaz
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: 18:45 - 06 May 2014    Post subject: Re: Paint School Reply with quote

CountArthurStrong wrote:


should I
1) wet sound the metalic paint (with say 1200 grit) some say yes, some say no
YES,
KEY the paint, or your clearcoat will slide off.


but this is a frame your painting,right?
the process your describing is usually for fairing panels etc.
for frames, powder coating is usually preferred.
but seeing as you have went to the effort of using etch primer etc, might as well finish it off with a clearcoat. again, if you dont key the paint, your lacquer will slide off


Next step the clear coat...here's the problem:

what the best way to cleat coat using aerosol cans

1) all in one go...one thick coat NO
2) build it up layer by layer YES


again, the process your describing is usually reserved for fairing panels,fuel tanks etc. it is a frame your still painting,right?

anyway, if it IS the frame, or anything else for that matter, wet sand it back.

so, for frame ; wet sand with 12 or 1500. let it dry.
give it a wipe then a quick blast of your lacquer.
let it dry or at least tacky.
then next coat, try and put a thicker coat on this time. you want it to look wet/shiney. but be careful, too much in one go and it will run.
repeat a couple of times and jobs done.


you are NOT finished!

IF it were fairings,fuel tanks etc, ie bigger bits that are seen, then i'd take a bit more care.

once you have built up a few layers of basecoat/colour coat, again wet sand and start clear coating as before, but this time you want to build up the clearcoat, as thick as you want it.(i think the more coats of lacquer,the better it looks when finished)
and once you have a few coats of lacquer on and you are 100% satisfied with it.
consider finishing it off/sealing it.
imho, this makes a HUGE difference.
side by side if you look at 2 panels where 1 has been compounded etc, you will notice the difference, trust me.
For a more professionall loook, consider wet sanding with 2000/2500 then compound, then sealing it with wax or 1 of the other many products available.
theres umpteen guides available, id have a look at a few, if i were you.


Being new to all this, i got some coke cans and prepped them up to match the frame (primer. base coat etc).

When i tried to clear coat, ....something happened, the surface became wrinkly. any idea why (see pic) I don't want this to happen to the frame...

sorry, my pc is f*cked & i cant really see your pics,(also the reason this post looks f*cking terrible, sorry!) but i'd hazard a guess at orange peel effect?
or you are spraying the paint in the wrong settings.
get somewhere dry, very dry so garage or shed might not be suitable at this time of year.
same with temp, you dont want it too warm or the paint will start drying as soon as its left the can.
or your trying to put too much paint on at 1 time?
sorry, but these are just guesses.
try rubbing the offending bits back, then try again. keep practsing till your happy with it.
cheers,
GAZ

[/b
]Cheers
Steve
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Jim painter
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 01 Jan 2014
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PostPosted: 07:24 - 07 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you wet sand metallic base coat you will be removing the edges of the flakes and reducing the effect. From what you have put I take it it's all aerosol your using.

I use 2k (pack) paint when I do all my spraying (I restore VW's for a living). Anyway the way I do it is
Etch prime,
Tak rag,
High build primer if req,
Flat then tak rag,
Basecoat, let it dry approx 20mins,
Light tak rag if required,
Then clearcoat, build up with several coats. The more you do the deeper the effect.

Hope it helps
Jim
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stevo as b4
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 07 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe you'd show us in another thread some of your VW restorations? Do you do air cooled dubs, watercooled or both?
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lihp
World Chat Champion



Joined: 22 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 07 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

By base coat - clear coat are you referring to a 2K paint system?

If so, they should be put wet on wet, so the clear coat should go onto a wet base coat.

Unless you're referring to cellulose colour and lacquer with 2K terms?
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