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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

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 smegballs World Chat Champion
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

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 smegballs World Chat Champion
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| toddyhell |
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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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| smegballs |
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 smegballs World Chat Champion
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| toddyhell |
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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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| smegballs |
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 smegballs World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 19:57 - 02 May 2014 Post subject: |
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Okay so I found this.
https://www.suzuki-gt.co.uk/images/Suzuki%20Wiring%20Diagrams/X7%20X5%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg
I'd run it as one single phase and route the whole lot through a modern RR. What AC volts do you get from the red/green to the green white? If you have a healthy voltage run it into a modern RR like in pic below and then feed the lighting circuits with the regulated 12V DC from an ignition controlled live.
https://i.imgur.com/ySGYeZP.png
That is how I would wire it up, nice heavy cables from the RR straight across the battery terminals (the battery side of the starter solenoid is a good place for the positive lead).
If you want to go down this path (I assume the X5 is 12v??) I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. |
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| toddyhell |
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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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| smegballs |
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 smegballs World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 20:31 - 02 May 2014 Post subject: |
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Okay mate, I've mapped out the charging system for you.
https://i.imgur.com/3HxAM1g.png
Right first a little theory about RR's to so you can understand it better. With these permanent magnet alternators, the faster they spin, the more volts you get within reason. The regulator works by shorting out the coils - causing output to fall. Basically the more electrical load you put on the alternator, the less it has to shunt. The less it has to shunt the cooler it runs and the happier it is.
Basically Mr Suzuki has cleverly set this up so for the small loads of charging the battery, side lights etc, only one coil is connected to the RR. With a small amount of power being produced for small loads, not much power is shunted and the RR stays happy. Then when you need headlights, the headlight switchs brings the second coil into the circuit giving more power.
So my guess is that you have a short to earth somewhere along the headlight run on the alternator output. When you turn on the headlights to switch in the second coil you are actually switching in a short - thus voltage falls to zero.
Also it looks like the RR earths directly through itself. In that case the RR needs to be nice and clean where it bolts onto the frame, and so does the frame to have a good electrical contact.
To test this, try this picture below with some flying leads just to test it out.
https://i.imgur.com/IOOZ0yj.png
Unplug the RR connection and the alternator connection to isolate them from any potential shorts in the frame. Then connect with flying leads:
Alternator Yellow/green to RR Yellow/green
Alternator Red/Green + Green/White to RR Brown
That should result in both coils putting power into the RR and full output, confirming a short somewhere in the wiring harness. |
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| toddyhell |
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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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| smegballs |
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 smegballs World Chat Champion
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| moonzoomer |
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 moonzoomer World Chat Champion
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| toddyhell |
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 toddyhell Derestricted Danger
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 Posted: 14:26 - 03 May 2014 Post subject: |
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Tried your theory however no ac volts produced. Tried each coil individualy and getting a rise in voltage at battery when revved. What's going on ffs.  |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 12 years, 198 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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