ZZR600 Valve Clearances

[DrSnoosnoo]

So I thought it might be good to take a load of pictures for myself when doing this job and they may come in helpful for other people who might not have done this before.

I've been into the bike enough to put in new spark plugs and balance carbs, no further, so this was a new experience for me too.

Here goes:

This is my zzr after a clean up post winter before its last ride over the M62 to see the family over Easter:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/p206x206/1972278_10154015192070258_219926955275084063_n.jpg?oh=8bab395b3c73571e6f570a3838541842&oe=557014D4&__gda__=1436286019_d377e756a691df0f5618f97263950cae

Armed with my trusty little tool box I got from ARGOS at the start of my biking career and a digital copy of the Haynes manual on my Tablet I headed into the garage.

I had to go back into the house because I forgot the damn keys to take the seat off:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/p206x206/1660459_10154032982240258_4702865726770242830_n.jpg?oh=b5ea17738a6d17d40e600063f7b81939&oe=55BB5624&__gda__=1436287989_478978d719bff4c063f175278a4852a9

Removed the battery cover and one of the terminals from the battery, took off this pipe (breather pipe?) and removed the rear bolt for the tank:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10171672_10154032982405258_6938555291185699752_n.jpg?oh=b864b0f5ad132ed5fe38f4bf407c7145&oe=5598CBDA&__gda__=1436222373_f4522da6f460624a18bce1ab38f089e3

and off came the two bolts by the bars:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10251954_10154032982575258_5777290307185605667_n.jpg?oh=5082db27b72a5796fe82cb0c3325b472&oe=559B5D1D

The nearside rear fairing needs removing to get to the fuel tap, removing the bolt on the side and the bolt into the tank (must be done on the other side also):

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10150724_10154032982775258_5837419866513136001_n.jpg?oh=e9fe94cb9622deb97e729c12dd9af866&oe=559DFCCB

This is what we're going for, turn the tap off:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10154952_10154032982890258_9091643890692577698_n.jpg?oh=6a99e02dbd2f88297622fb7a0eac80ff&oe=55B59AFA

Remove this screw at the back:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1509694_10154032983020258_3690270489082594744_n.jpg?oh=68da119abc744fe0d637b6fa64525064&oe=55A505C1&__gda__=1436718481_8f5b2c04985d950fc51daf89d848b569

and the bolts within the bungee hooks:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10155478_10154032983185258_581419188605071516_n.jpg?oh=51ea3e996bcaa50724e77570120df092&oe=559AC00A

take the grabrail off and remove the final screw from the fairing (is it a fairing?):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10264686_10154032983420258_2542420544919648213_n.jpg?oh=9417e9127c658ff4b7e502257357f85f&oe=55B307F8&__gda__=1436214151_ca0179dc50b80d3989beade0c5cddb09

Pull the panel away carefully, ensuring to undo the indicator connector:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/1488110_10154032983565258_2484851533179434809_n.jpg?oh=78fd0fe7b75fa299f7c1f17b1cd7de0e&oe=55B05CED

Revealing something like this:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10296641_10154032983730258_6398740105812322564_n.jpg?oh=7d50e24e6844c1ce10830d33ae35b86f&oe=55A78311&__gda__=1438045703_154f9a10c6899699d55e8aa5cd74c4dc

Lift the tank and disconnect the fuel sender:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1377554_10154032984085258_6720888311389584124_n.jpg?oh=47ec531b508725b233daae0a6eebb9c6&oe=55A6F313&__gda__=1437950872_404726da930f4568f6b013f4f7f287e3

When replacing the tank, take not of this connector right under the tank, they ALWAYS fall off, so would make your fuel dial not work:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1978850_10154032984515258_5795205949611134283_n.jpg?oh=49c7644bc0cfca2ee37ef159c6e7d5f7&oe=55BBEC67
____________________
I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[DrSnoosnoo]

Now we're at the Airbox (n shizz)

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10174976_10154032984720258_7724801198939704056_n.jpg?oh=07b8e35b37fd5cc23c2a89dc38d1a58d&oe=55A1127D

You'll need to remove all of the screws around the perimeter and pipework, I find it easier later, if you remove the rubber bungs from the seat side of the airbox, to access screws later:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1496659_10154032984860258_5633350150379830321_n.jpg?oh=5e890b248dd47ec87a81fdcbcbba989b&oe=55B3B64E&__gda__=1437631006_09cbed704e43ed2b8c4e83afe3d62c17

Now we're in the airbox and you can see the screws in the base which are best accessed at the same angle as they are, hence the rubber bungs:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1496659_10154032985035258_1351795147192424034_n.jpg?oh=358c63cc67aafc23c4e0b14aacb2c040&oe=55A8C484&__gda__=1437399252_d345d36428d9e40624218feb1c832254

Take the air filter out and you can see the RAM air tubes that need to be wiggled out:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10151375_10154032985180258_6621230480369835038_n.jpg?oh=84b5ad6394b68a6d71f18e453f2f3a4f&oe=5599A0D1

Giving you this:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1979699_10154032985320258_3331143061836933315_n.jpg?oh=b007a980d5d8a1fbf15e3725528a9a55&oe=55A089CA

I took this picture to help remember the order for the HT leads to be replaced:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10155300_10154032985510258_473290268553425709_n.jpg?oh=ed9f2e0eb58bd7d78b7a5fd86a0df25c&oe=55B5B50F&__gda__=1438106552_09aa0a6ead4dba8bdda8b404164adf7c

Gently pop all the HT leads out and I found it easier to disconnect these little vacuum/breather(?) pipes to gain access:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10151308_10154032985635258_3987392875535839766_n.jpg?oh=5f15edbc07faaf96b8fbadd34d4025d3&oe=559996C6

Once they're out, make a start at unscrewing the ignition coils from the frame mounting or, like I didn't figure out, just take the mounting of the frame, that needs to come out anyway:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10171653_10154032985775258_9118774340009814088_n.jpg?oh=86c31fcd388517df945204bfac1e988a&oe=55B2DEFA&__gda__=1437202079_33c1f20e1982525cfc39d8b2ef194803

I don't know what this is called but I unplugged it from the tubes from the carbs and those other tubes (breathers) from the engine, you can see I've twisted those tubes around to show and got it out of my way:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1912451_10154032986350258_1885085593560041401_n.jpg?oh=ff933caa5a0f65a6ea92ce05c409d90e&oe=55BCFE8F

I removed the Pulsing Cover after taking the belly pan off (very simple to do so didn't photograph it, you need to be in here later:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10247403_10154032986480258_5008172645185858054_n.jpg?oh=89ba384645f46d8566568d5fab39da69&oe=55B2796A&__gda__=1436858503_02776d3e7415d4bd5dca2d6181a292a1

The gasket wouldn't let go of this one so I had to give it some knocks with a rubber hammer but it started to take the paint of the casing, which I was a tad unhappy about so be careful:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/10155793_10154032986695258_4910732778928583953_n.jpg?oh=813bc66b200f8419c56dea10f4173b4b&oe=55A91510
____________________
I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[DrSnoosnoo]

Now. To get better access to the valve cover I loosened the nearside RAM air tube then twisted it out of the frame:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10306265_10154032986940258_5251925008210840018_n.jpg?oh=777568a59f8539c743826bfb8563c9fa&oe=55B3D8E7

I then whipped the clutch cable off the carbs and loosened the jubilee clips from the carbs to the head and wiggled them slightly away:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10299125_10154032987095258_5288024434026839649_n.jpg?oh=0e1e64ff812865a802f317fe79ff3f7e&oe=55A9EFEB

I then removed the 8 screws from the valve cover, remembering where they came from, if it matters and also removed those caps with the breather tubes to make it easier to wiggle from under the throttle cables:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10308302_10154032987265258_4002090570810439075_n.jpg?oh=f9e3124ab10ad3487971f1d39a5cfa43&oe=55AC3962

Now you can look at the clearances. using the crank in the side case you can rotate the cams to Top Dead Centre, they call it, buy using a socket and turning till the mark on the crank case lines up with T, 1,4. This should allow you to get feelers between the cams and valve buckets of the inlet and exhaust of cylinder 1, the ex of cylinder 2 and the in of cylinder 3. Do a full rotation of the crank to return at TDC again and you can do all the other clearances. I found it very hard to get pictures of this bit because it's so tight! but it should be obvious where you want to measure the clearances.

My results were 3 exhaust clearances were too tight and 2 inlets were too tight. Now I have to strip down to measure the shims to order new ones.

This is where it got interesting. These bearing covers have 8 bolts each and they're numbered 1-16, you undo them in the order of 16 to 1 (then tighten 1 to 16). These are quite tight so make sure you have the socket properly seated or you might end up rounding some off. Crack EACH of them open half a turn or so and then give the covers a few taps with a rubber mallet, not hard ones, just to dislodge them. Repeat this until the screws are fully out and the covers move easily.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1013553_10154033564835258_7654039932384846430_n.jpg?oh=242c3c14f2d588cc01c3707849d85556&oe=55BB20A4&__gda__=1436482095_6f5e26a142ce1b5365e1c5aaa4bbe2c9

I didn't do it properly the first time round so could only get one cover off, so I had to tighten them both down again and repeat - laborious!!

Remember which way the covers lived!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/10273573_10154039513785258_8132358212947852265_n.jpg?oh=ce2a097281154956977daacea251761c&oe=55A321F0&__gda__=1437243860_7612bd91c489ec3bda2d2a78ab97603a

Once they're off, beneath the carbs lives the Cam Chain Tensioner, you need to remove it. The haynes says this, once you have loosened the bolt do not just retighten it, you MUST completely remove them and reset it or you can end up breaking stuff. Middle bolt out first, which comes along with a long spring and a pin inside it. Then remove the two outer screws:

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10247496_10154039513235258_6474278961370933677_n.jpg?oh=0f06a5db03a323c7fea7f3fa52dd1c80&oe=55AD01E7

When the CCT is out you can reset it by pressing the little release pin on the shaft and pushing the rod back in.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10154985_10154039513345258_405088336585023829_n.jpg?oh=ed6d171e22e9e5517fec64245a29ed7a&oe=55B7B544&__gda__=1436488059_4e14df121e52356c542f10451922c1a6

You then have a loose cam chain, this picture also shows the markings on the sprockets.

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10170690_10154039513880258_7159238192425413613_n.jpg?oh=f377314b7576190b55f057b138c734dd&oe=55A25855

With some wiggling, you'll be able to get the cams out:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10250226_10154039514015258_2494298126495878818_n.jpg?oh=183682e3877efded6cc1389b891bcf90&oe=55A11B27&__gda__=1436923736_127c7709535533214332dbccea429809

But do not let the chain fall into the abyss, I poked a long spanner through there

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10313814_10154039514125258_6570275618241956858_n.jpg?oh=50876dc72318a0c84eced5a24d58d007&oe=55B80EA3&__gda__=1437570268_416454a9c45345345860b07e54e41657

Now I'm into it as far as is required. I used a magnetic pick up tool to pull the buckets off and to reveal the shim that was sitting within the bucket.

I used a micrometer to measure the shims that were out of spec, they were all 3mm shims, and used the lookup table to find out what replacement shims I need.
____________________
I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[sgtcalle]

Very informative thanks! Is that a D or an E model?
____________________
CBR600F '02
Manchester

[DrSnoosnoo]

[_mjs_]

I'll be watching this, my ZZR is about due for valves
____________________
Previous Bikes: 2006 Honda XR125L > 2003 Yamaha DT125R > 1996 Honda CB500
Current bikes: 1997 Kawasaki ZZR 600 E5 > 2006 Honda Varadero XL125V

[DrSnoosnoo]

Here's the ending. Sorry for not updating this sooner.

Here's the second leg.

First here's the shim under the bucket, the little round thingymajig:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/10308244_10154077358900258_3166294436920706050_n.jpg?oh=451a5da5b584313624dfe07fd92f3135&oe=55A41C46&__gda__=1437182799_14ce1a62c48142aaaa419170a22e4e98

Once you replace all the shims, it's time for the timing - see what I did there?

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1510617_10154077359085258_1705117893856085495_n.jpg?oh=115d2dd6dfbc7e0fff295f3ae3a97fcd&oe=5599633F

At TDC the intake crank should have the EX mark inline with the near crank case, with the opposite IN mark facing towards the rear. The exhaust cam is the opposite of this, it's IN mark inline with the far crank case and the EX facing towards the front. To make sure the timing is correct you can count the links between the EX mark of the intake cam and the IN of the exhaust cam. There should be a total of 17 links - because the EX and IN of each cam will be in a link that counts as half, there will be 16 FULL links between the marks. You can count the rivets, 34 total rivets.

In the picture you count the rivet just above the markings on the cams. If that's not clear, give me a shout.

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10154568_10154077361125258_5665404096805136812_n.jpg?oh=97b94e46b9b27bc489eca8451b6f8ae3&oe=556FE38E

Replace these o-rings, I bought the actual parts from Cornwall Kawasaki and can't remember the part number off the top of my head but easy to find out.

Now you can put the bearing covers on. Jam something against the cam chain through the CCT hole beneath the carb to maintain tension of the chain throughout the tightening of these covers. I used the largest allen key I had and pressed in as I was tightening each of the 16 screws.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/10313609_10154077362190258_1290612287326984818_n.jpg?oh=d15aa3a7aedd8e59d15c85869e2045e7&oe=55B6A179&__gda__=1433381981_3a40d74f7728d0516c2471769f4e8df2

When it was torqued up to 12 Nm I believe the value was this is how it looked.

Now you can replace the CCT. Put the mounting on FIRST so the plunger doesn't over extend when putting the middle screw in.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10007469_10154077362590258_685511431554133131_n.jpg?oh=3b6a2a98ab33ff873add4e1322e48361&oe=559AF07F&__gda__=1436812335_0bcd6add22a06c7566384b1b10295146

Then with a butt load of swearing and catching my fingers on metal bits I got the valve cover / rocker cover back on. There is no tactic for this apart from perseverance IMO.

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/10259795_10154077362920258_5676584155041906449_n.jpg?oh=e1ea5830eada0cac2cc0ce5787af450d&oe=55B75B4D

Got my carbs back onto the inlet rubbers.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10336723_10154077363750258_1598013906229862099_n.jpg?oh=eeb26064351cc194e47dec3726a678c3&oe=55BAA7ED&__gda__=1438095544_492385626a7f93560182612858ac07a5

This thingy went back on

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10302104_10154077364145258_6208189135071517416_n.jpg?oh=c6e130116a2cc46665b77da23d1794d2&oe=55B70A08&__gda__=1438141047_85034350cea792ed6ba79b37f2ed5455

In went all the HT leads

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10172655_10154077364590258_8621034643580718852_n.jpg?oh=91868ca68deafc8f03a1771595b30785&oe=559DA385

On went the airbox with more shouting to get my RAM air tubes into the bugger

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10363795_10154102169575258_2618168038229366023_n.jpg?oh=cba3203bd635cdf15571db7546319be0&oe=55A9BDC4&__gda__=1433447611_12e8394566d6018270ecd5a04eddb26a

All the pipes in the right places

https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10177240_10154102169905258_190421841374583148_n.jpg?oh=c27fed8513f06e25173bac225df5578a&oe=55BBBACA

The last step not really worth a picture was plugging the fuel sender back in, screwing on the fuel pipe and putting the overflow pipe back on and obvious fairings. They're just simple tbf.

Hope this helps other people.

For this work I used a £40 tool set from ARGOS, a 23 quid Torque wrench and around £8 feeler gauge from Machine Mart and I've never been into an engine in my life.

For a first timer, if you have lots of time to do it, I have a banger old CG to get me to work so had all the time in the world, give it a go!
____________________
I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[expat200]

Wow, looks like an epic task....how long did it take start to finish (excluding time to get the shims)

I now appreciate how simple it was on my old CX.
Two bolts or each rocker cover (which handily stuck out so could be removed without even removing the tank).
Small sight window in the back of the cases to check crank position.
Check clearances and adjust with screw and locknut and all back together within 40 minutes (including tea and fag break).
Saying that they had to be done every 3000miles or would sound like two skeletons going for it in a biscuit tin.

Hats off to you, was it noticeably quieter afterwards?

[DrSnoosnoo]

Starting at 12 on a day, I probably left the garage at 8 maybe 9 that was to get into the cams and measure the clearances. Bitch of an effort to get the rocker cover off because of how tight it is and also took loads of pictures to make sure I didn't mess up any piping etc.

Then waited for shims. Reshimming took all of 2 minutes then the rebuild happened. Only I realised I needed the proper o rings from kawa, that took a week as well as a new CCT mounting bolt because I derped and broke it.

Probably took me a full 3 or 4 days, properly going through the haynes and studying pictures and stuff, not including the waiting for postage of stuff.

It isn't really much quieter. BUT it starts soooo much better from cold. Used to ALWAYS take the choke to start it even hot.
____________________
I'm Sam; Northern, Ginger, Lover
Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R

[Nobby the Bastard]

Good god, that's more of a faff just to get at the cams than my FZ....
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[DrSnoosnoo]

[smegballs]

Nice pics! I need to do my sisters ZZR so will come in handy I'm sure. Looks like you need to have somewhere under cover to work then really with that sort of job duration. I've had the carbs off before but that is as far as I've gone.

[DrSnoosnoo]

[_Iain_]

Superb!
____________________
Please be aware that the above post may be full of complete nonsense.
Riding: '07 KTM Duke II, Baotian BT49QT-20 Driving: '88 Volvo 340

[mentalboy]

And I'm assuming you checked your new valve clearances before fighting the rocker cover???

If it's anything like the 1100, I found it easier to remove the muck shield (and everything else in that little area!!!) at the front of the engine which meant I could manoeuvre the rocker cover in place without too much grief (If I recall it wouldn't actually go in or out unless I removed the stuff in front the engine)
____________________
Make mine a Corona.

[DrSnoosnoo]