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One of two pistons is being stubborn.

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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 15 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

wouldnt have thought so - but you wont really know until you get the pistons out and look at the seals properly
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 15 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

rough patches, scratches, dimples, raggy edges, some ares may have lost there flex and done compress or bend aswell as others.

You may find that after a quick wipe they look virtually brand new.

If your not loosing fluid, or having any braking issues, and the seals look in good condition re-fit them - carefully.

It's usually recommended to replace them if the piston is removed regardless of the condition though.
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baldy
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 15 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you take the cap off the fluid reservoir before you tried to push the pistons back in? The fluid has to go somewhere. I've done this myself. I felt a bit silly when I realised.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loosen the cap but put some cloths or rags around the reservoir, because as you push the piston in it will push fluid back to the reservoir. If you don't keep an eye on it it will overflow and spill all over your bars, cables, tank, engine cases etc. If the fluid level is getting too high, suck a little out with a pipette or syringe.
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 16 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

baldy wrote:
Did you take the cap off the fluid reservoir before you tried to push the pistons back in? The fluid has to go somewhere. I've done this myself. I felt a bit silly when I realised.


Ha, exactly what I was going to say. Compressing brake fluid with your thumbs is quite a task.
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delsol
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 17 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PillMonster wrote:
baldy wrote:
Did you take the cap off the fluid reservoir before you tried to push the pistons back in? The fluid has to go somewhere. I've done this myself. I felt a bit silly when I realised.


No I wasn't aware you had to but I will try it do I need some dot 4 on standby?


Syphon some dot 4 from the R6, you never use it anyhow.
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd use a couple of pieces of flat bar and 2 G-clamps to compress the piston myself but it sounds like it might well be fubared if you can't move it with the cap off but can move the other one.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Use a G clamp to push the piston back in.

All the best

Keith
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 18 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

G clamp should be fine, it just presses from the top of the piston.

Pliers on the other hand should be punishable by death unless the pistons are being thrown.

It is possible to get the piston slightly off kilter and then it is a right royal pain to get it to budge, maybe try getting it to move out a tiny amount first?
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PillMonster wrote:
75mm G clamp from screwfix £3.99 did the job with ease.

I have a new issue now though the lever is very spongy I can almost hit the grip when I apply it defiantly won't stop me in an emergency stop.

The fluid is very dark and murky so I went to get some brake fluid got my 8mm spanner tried loosening the nipple and the head snapped clean off with hardly any effort. I must of over tightened it last time more than likely it was made out of cheese though.

Is there any way I can bleed the brake without using the nipple? I am aware you can get banjo bleeders but that will mean waiting for it from ebay.


banjo bleeders are only really any good for bleeding up to the banjo, the nipple is on the caliper itself to let air out of the caliper - very little will get trapped in the lines themselves as they go up / down and the air will float up to the reservoir.

if you cant get the broken nipple out and fit a new one then you will need a banjo bleeder and you will probably have to remove the caliper and position it so the the caliper is a couple of inches below the banjo bleeder, and frequently give it a wobble during bleeding to let any trapped air float up to the banjo (usually it can just sit in the highest point of the caliper where the nipple is....)

Also I would get the screw replaced in reservoir asap as your brake fluid will absorb moisture from the air...

If there is a couple of mm of nipple above the threads of the caliper I would have a go at knocking it round with a screwdriver and an old flat bladed screw driver, maybe warm the caliper up first just be careful brake fluid is flammable.

It will be a LOT easier to bleed the brakes if that nipple is replaced
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ws4936
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 23 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371027684167

Hoped you cleaned them pistons up.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 07:27 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

(Shakes head) The brake needs a service, seals out, clean grooves out, clean pistons, replace fluid. It's that simple, new brake just like that, you might get stuck if you let the seals swell up but replacing the seals is often cheap anyway.
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mudcow007
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PostPosted: 07:39 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

why dont you just buy a 2nd hand caliper from ebay an stop pissing about**

125 calipers are only about the size of a mountain bike calipers, so cant be that much?

plus you will get another set of pistons etc


** edit**

ok i didnt read all you posts, these seem to be carrying a few bits for yours

Hills


breaking 1

breaking 2
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TUG
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PostPosted: 08:10 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

PillMonster wrote:
I'm going to source two new screws for the master cylinder lid tomorrow and the most expensive bleed nipple I can find.

I will have a go at tapping it around with a screwdriver and toffee hammer there's only a tiny nik pointing out where it snapped off the thread though. I don't have a bench or vice so I will be attempting it whilst it is still bolted to the leg.

If this fails I will have to take it to a garage as I also don't own a drill or weld gun.

A new calliper is out of the question I can not find one on ebay/gumtree.

You're going to need a decent set of tools if you want to carry on in the biking game, you need to drill out the nipple but it isn't that simple. If it's mild steel then you should be ok but anything else will be a bitch, not only that but drilling the nipple out requires a lot of accuracy and knowing when to stop or you'll drill into the caliper body.

It will be a lot easier to replace the item as one but if you are dead set on just replacing the nipple then do so at the cost of a workshop hour, cost of a bleed nipple and possible helicoil insert.(£30+ bill)
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 08:36 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:
PillMonster wrote:
I'm going to source two new screws for the master cylinder lid tomorrow and the most expensive bleed nipple I can find.

I will have a go at tapping it around with a screwdriver and toffee hammer there's only a tiny nik pointing out where it snapped off the thread though. I don't have a bench or vice so I will be attempting it whilst it is still bolted to the leg.

If this fails I will have to take it to a garage as I also don't own a drill or weld gun.

A new calliper is out of the question I can not find one on ebay/gumtree.

You're going to need a decent set of tools if you want to carry on in the biking game, you need to drill out the nipple but it isn't that simple. If it's mild steel then you should be ok but anything else will be a bitch, not only that but drilling the nipple out requires a lot of accuracy and knowing when to stop or you'll drill into the caliper body.

It will be a lot easier to replace the item as one but if you are dead set on just replacing the nipple then do so at the cost of a workshop hour, cost of a bleed nipple and possible helicoil insert.(£30+ bill)


I always thought, bleed nipples would be an NPT thread which gets thinner at the bottom and so wouldn't be able to be heli coiled and also requires special taps.

Could be wrong like just an assumption....

Either way I really wouldn't fancy heli-coiling a brake caliper - I would much rather dig the old nipple out somehow - possibly by carefully hammering in a screwdriver without hitting the threads and unscrewing the remains, or just fit 2nd hand caliper.
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TUG
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

gavcarter wrote:


I always thought, bleed nipples would be an NPT thread which gets thinner at the bottom and so wouldn't be able to be heli coiled and also requires special taps.

Could be wrong like just an assumption....

Either way I really wouldn't fancy heli-coiling a brake caliper - I would much rather dig the old nipple out somehow - possibly by carefully hammering in a screwdriver without hitting the threads and unscrewing the remains, or just fit 2nd hand caliper.

Not that I've seen and hitting a screwdriver into the threads will more likely cause more damage.

I recently had issues with my ER5's front brake such as the cap being stuck with cheese like screws but a gentle tap here and there got them out. It can be really daunting doing brakes on a bike that has seen good usage but having worked on a few older bikes with issues like this, you learn to find ways to get them sorted. i.e. my FZR400 had 2 different rear calipers, one from snapped bleed nipple, the other seized on solid, looking back on it all now, I could of fixed them easily.

If you lived closer to me PillMonster I'd help you out but you live a nice wedge away from Wigan! Laughing
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gavcarter
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 24 Apr 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

TUG wrote:

Not that I've seen and hitting a screwdriver into the threads will more likely cause more damage.

I recently had issues with my ER5's front brake such as the cap being stuck with cheese like screws but a gentle tap here and there got them out. It can be really daunting doing brakes on a bike that has seen good usage but having worked on a few older bikes with issues like this, you learn to find ways to get them sorted. i.e. my FZR400 had 2 different rear calipers, one from snapped bleed nipple, the other seized on solid, looking back on it all now, I could of fixed them easily.

If you lived closer to me PillMonster I'd help you out but you live a nice wedge away from Wigan! Laughing


Not into the thread, into the hole left down the centre of the nipple - if you where careful enough you could probably wedge the screwdriver in there without touching the threads - it would wedge against the inside of the nipple
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