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2nd Service Due on my Lexmoto ZSX - Advice please

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orangepeeleo
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PostPosted: 14:28 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: 2nd Service Due on my Lexmoto ZSX - Advice please Reply with quote

Hi,

So I have done almost 600 miles on my ZSX at the minute and it is now approaching its 2nd service.

Looking at the checklist, checking and adjusting of Valve clearances is on there, no correct me if I'm wrong but this requires the bike to be cold and possibly left overnight right?

I thought that I would have to leave the bike overnight but the dealer I got the bike from has said that this service should take about 2-3hrs, with them leaving the bike for around an hour for it to cool down (after my 30 mile trip to the dealers)

I'm not sure what to do, if I do the service myself, or go somewhere else to get it done properly I will lose my warranty with the dealer, with the other option to pay £70 for a service where they will be adjusting the valves after a 30 mile ragging and a 1hr cool down :/

Of course, I could be completely wrong and most garages will only leave a bike for a few hours before doing the valve's??

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I did mine cold.

What the usual state of play is though, I'm unsure.

I would suggest you do your valves. It's a good learning experience.
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

2-3 hours? At 600 miles? I'd be surprised. Dump the oil, replace the oil filter (if it has one), new oil, maybe clean the air filter and tighten the chain, on to the next one.

So look on the bright side, they probably won't even check the valves, regardless of what the service schedule says. Whistle
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orangepeeleo
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://s1.postimg.org/8m5ajh8gf/20140602_183902.jpg

This is the service intervals in the manual.

I've had this since the 23rd of April and already at the 2nd service, wanting to use it for commuting more but at 40 miles round trip it makes it clock the miles up pretty quickly!

I guess with my commute I need to be learning to service this myself, but gtd if I do this service myself now, the engine blows up after 800 miles and I have no warranty lol.......cuz thats how my life rolls! Smile
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

That service schedule is generic, and a bad joke. Look at the items marked for replacement (not adjustment or cleaning) every 3,000km:

Oil filter.
Air filter.
Spark plug.
Drive belt.

OK, not relevant to your bike, but it illustrates that it's not to be taken too seriously. You might as well have got a Royal Enfield. Laughing

Sadly, spanner time doesn't come cheaper just because you're on a 125. That cheap bike looks like it's going to cost you a fair amount by the time that it's out of warranty, and you won't see a penny of that back in resale when you put in on Gumtree for the Daryyyls to paw and grunt at.

Me, I would (and did) forget the warranty and just do all the work myself. For one thing, that way you know it's been done. As a buyer, I would (and do) prefer to buy from someone with a garage full of tools and a folder full of retail receipts.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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orangepeeleo
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 02 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies man, this is helping a lot Smile

Sorry to bombard you with pictures and questions but I also have the Chinese 125 haynes manual, should I just follow the plan in here and do things myself then?

https://s28.postimg.org/4i7rr9qb1/2014_06_02_21_25_10.jpg

Like, obv this is generic too, but is it less of a joke than the manuals suggestions??

Thanks
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 07:35 - 03 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, that looks better.

Although I'd change the oil more frequently than every 3000 miles. Just use whatever 10w40 or 15w40 is cheapest at the local supermarket, it'll be better than what the engine was designed to run on. Don't put in anything fancy, it might have friction reducers that could (so the story goes) cause clutch slip.
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Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 03 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
Yup, that looks better.

Although I'd change the oil more frequently than every 3000 miles. Just use whatever 10w40 or 15w40 is cheapest at the local supermarket, it'll be better than what the engine was designed to run on. Don't put in anything fancy, it might have friction reducers that could (so the story goes) cause clutch slip.


I agree with everything Roger has said on this topic Smile
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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orangepeeleo
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PostPosted: 09:33 - 03 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thanks.

Just noticed that one of the items on there is to check brake pad wear :/

This is gonna be a steep ass learning curve for me lol

Will be needing to space these jobs out over a week or so I think as it looks like it'll take some amount of time!

Just ordered a feeler gauge, will start this weekend, wish me luck Smile
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 10:28 - 03 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

orangepeeleo wrote:
Cool, thanks.

Just noticed that one of the items on there is to check brake pad wear :/

This is gonna be a steep ass learning curve for me lol

Will be needing to space these jobs out over a week or so I think as it looks like it'll take some amount of time!

Just ordered a feeler gauge, will start this weekend, wish me luck Smile


To check the pad wear, stick your head down towards your caliper and have a look, that's it. You should see a metal plate with some meat on it that touches the disc. As long as there is some "meat" on it, they're fine
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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orangepeeleo
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 03 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point lol

.....Damn you back brake being all hidden n shit!
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DrSnoosnoo
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 03 Jun 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

orangepeeleo wrote:
Good point lol

.....Damn you back brake being all hidden n shit!


Is it a drum? They should have wear markers on the outside which will show you whether the arm has been tightened past it's limits.

Very easy to change over though.
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Did have: '95 ZZR600 '83 CG125 '97 ZZR1100 '15 Hypermotard 821 SP Do Have: '10 ZX10R
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