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Spot The Difference.....Oil

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WildGoose
White Van Man



Joined: 21 Mar 2002
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Spot The Difference.....Oil Reply with quote

https://www.giffould.com/gallery/albums/userpics/Castrol.JPG

apart from a letter "S" that seems to cost 10 quid

can anyone actually tell me the difference between these two, i bought the GPS today

i'm all for high quality motorcycle oil, and the best protection for my engine blahdy blah, but the difference between 15 quid and 25 quid is fairly serious for 4 litres of liquid, that gets binned (taken to the dump officer) every 3000 miles

is GPS necessary over GP, unless i want to ride in the Arctic Circle?
bike is CBR400 NC29

curiously yours
Goosey
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Annabella
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Goosey, I think the S is for synthetic.... don't stress over it. Save your £10 and have a pint instead Thumbs Up
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Sparks!
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Annabella wrote:
Goosey, I think the S is for synthetic.... don't stress over it. Save your £10 and have a pint instead Thumbs Up


Where do you drink? Shocked That's expensive for a pint! Very Happy
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Annabella
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

He has to buy me one too....
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Danny
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe it includes free re-fills. Laughing
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Frost
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

so long as the oil is decent and to a sufficient level then it will be fine.

£10 a pint is steep, £5 will buy you a pint of leffe, perhaps put a quadruple vodka into it?
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iCraig
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally hate fully synthetic oil so its certianly not worth £10 extra, but considering its going in a high performance inline 4 then it may be worth the difference to you.

I personally use Putoline Semi-Synthectic Oil Smile.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use castrol GTX which is another £5 cheaper for a litre more and change it regularly. Here is why I can get away with it.
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yo, Goosey. Fully synthetic oil has a high chance of causing clutch-slip on your bike...

I put in castrol, 10w40 part synthetic GPS. Does the trick... Same oils as you bought i think.

Part synthetic is not fully Synthetic, so its fine.
Dont bother with base mineral oil (ie GP); a bit crap. The 400 revs pretty high.

Got it?; 10w40 Part synthetic... Any decent brand, and you will be ok.

I know the Castrol 10w40 Part syn. GPS is expensive, but it's a specialised engine...worth it!
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Smoto Bob
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: oil Reply with quote

i know this will get flamed, but Middle Finger

i am using oil i took out of the cbr every 3k mile in my klr's. i ant spending £25 on more oil and my engines 20 year old anyway so oil then must have been worse Question And most of it leaks out anyway Evil or Very Mad
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yer but the oil you're using will have 3k miles worth of engine "wear" and "degradation".

Cant afford a tenner for some nice new, mineral oil? Probably be alot better using new base mineral than old part synthetic...

Sup to you though m8. I suppose, If it leaks then there is not muh point in shelling out. My car does that, and i put cheapo crap in... I dont like my car, and it doesn't like me...


Last edited by Claud 14.7 to 1 on 14:05 - 19 Jul 2004; edited 1 time in total
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers peeps

and yeh i took a bottle of R4 to the tills by mistake, plus a tyre pressure guage (fiver) and the total was just shy of 40 quid!
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 14:06 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I put fully synth in my bike it made it faster ! Twisted Evil

I'll be using fully synth from now on then! Very Happy

I doubt it would make a difference ona 400 though...
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yer,it's not worth the money or the risk of clutch-slip with the R4 TBH...

The oil you've got is very good!
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeh ive heard about the clutch slip issue, i used to put R4 in the R6 and stuff, but never did in my cbr250

speaking of which, anyone need a litre of R4? i have one spare
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Claud 14.7 to 1 wrote:
Yo, Goosey. Fully synthetic oil has a high chance of causing clutch-slip on your bike...


Not really. There should not be any real difference in the lubrication qualities of new mineral oil and new fully synthetic oil, just that the mineral oil needs more additives to give a decent viscosity range. These additives break down far more rapidly than the oil, which is why it is claimed to be safer to leave synthetic in the engine for longer.

In support of using synthetic I have used fully synthetic car oil in my 1200 Bandit without any clutch slip, although the clutch did start to slip when the engine was tuned (but then also slipped on semi synthetic bike oil with the same clutch, and on semi synthetic bike oil on a new standard clutch).

All the best

Keith
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G
The Voice of Reason



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PostPosted: 14:14 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Re: oil Reply with quote

GPS is the castrol 'premium' semi-synth.

Castrol r4 is the 'premium' fully-synth, at about £30 for four litres.

A better fuel, especially something like the r4, should work better in high-rpm engines and provide less resistance, though may need to be changed more quickly. Some of the stupidly expensive oils claim to give a 5% increase in power or something.

Note that most sports bikes apparantly should be fine with fully synth, but it seems some aftermarket clutch plates (ebc) don't work so well with it.

In big sports bikes I go for GPS/r4. For stuff like the dr I stick any old cheap stuff in Smile.
For the CBR? Well, what do you want it for? If you're going to be treating it 'nicely' I'd get the dip in power looked at so it's actually running right. Doesn't seem much point keeping your engine expensively lubricated when something's not working as it should in the first place.


Stinkywheel: I suspect the '1984 Honda V65 Sabre' that they are testing doesn't rev quite as high as goose's cbr400 or my 15,200rpm red line on the r6 Smile.
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

R6 redlines higher than the CBR Sad

lame Razz

and

Annabella wrote:
He has to buy me one too....


for a one line response? have to do better than that my dear Razz especially at fiver a pint Wink
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Claud 14.7 to 1
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Not really. There should not be any real difference in the lubrication qualities of new mineral oil and new fully synthetic oil, just that the mineral oil needs more additives to give a decent viscosity range. These additives break down far more rapidly than the oil, which is why it is claimed to be safer to leave synthetic in the engine for longer.


ok, but the viscocity, for the R4 is 5w40 . Haynes reccommends 10w40.

The fully synthetic will be thinner. And that, possibly, coupled with the fact that the 400s clutch will not be as heavy duty as say a 600s or a litre bikes, may cause slip. ?Clutch plate wear also? On a higher milesge bike. I dunno. Bigger bike should be ok with fully synthetic...400s are old as well...

i am mosly going on what other cbr400 owners have said, as i have not used the fully synthetic oil in mine before...
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Annabella
Like a person, only smaller



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PostPosted: 14:34 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

WildGoose wrote:
Annabella wrote:
He has to buy me one too....


for a one line response? have to do better than that my dear Razz especially at fiver a pint Wink


Gah, you've seen my bum. You owe me!
/me thinks, actually, you're most likely mentally disturbed and hence, I owe you.... bugger!
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WildGoose
White Van Man



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PostPosted: 14:37 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have?! Shocked

do you mean through skimpy sports wear?

damn, if i missed it, or cant remember Wink

but you owe me sounds good, so we'll go with that Razz
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Korn
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried R4 once and the bike didn't like it, would run like bollocks until properly warmed up so went back to using good ol' dependable semi-synth GPS. All the oil that comes out of the R1 I save for the car anyway 'cos it goes through it at an alarming rate Razz
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 19:31 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Claud 14.7 to 1 wrote:
ok, but the viscocity, for the R4 is 5w40 . Haynes reccommends 10w40.

The fully synthetic will be thinner.


Only really relevant at low temperatures, and really just means it just flows better when cold so will reach round the engine quicker on a cold start. It will have no real effect on the lubrication properties.

Claud 14.7 to 1 wrote:
And that, possibly, coupled with the fact that the 400s clutch will not be as heavy duty as say a 600s or a litre bikes, may cause slip. ?Clutch plate wear also? On a higher milesge bike. I dunno. Bigger bike should be ok with fully synthetic...400s are old as well...


You would be surprised, but often the makers use the same plates in a very large variety of bikes, just sticking a few more in there on the larger engined bikes. Given the torque of a larger bike they will give the clutch a harder time, and the Bandit clutch plates had about 35000 miles on them.

Claud 14.7 to 1 wrote:
i am mosly going on what other cbr400 owners have said, as i have not used the fully synthetic oil in mine before...


There is a lot of paranoia about synthetic oils. Basically much of this is down to early synthetic oils which had a very low ester content. Esters react with the seals in you engine and cause them to swell slightly, helping them to seal properly. Because of this people used early synthetic oils and rapidly noticed oil leaks. 20+ years later their reputations have still not recovered.

It is certainly true that some additives in some oils (not just synthetic oils) could certainly cause clutch slip, but that is not really a reason to avoid synthetic bike oils intended for wet clutch engine.

All the best

Keith
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silent
Scooby Slapper



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PostPosted: 21:19 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am using rock oil in my bike at the moment 10w 40, i have heard that its cheap, and rubbish, buit it cost £16 for 4 litres, same as the gps stuff, so am I a bad man for using it or not?

Andy
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iCraig
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 19 Jul 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil's oil in my eyes, plus it only stays in my bike for 2000 Miles.

But I won't use crap!

Smile
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