Bike not starting

[faabiian3]

I've recently bough a new bike (Suzuki intruder.. 125) Yes it's only a 125, but it's a stepping stone for me to move on to a bigger bike. I've had no problems but recently it's had trouble starting. Ill run through everything that's been done and that could contribute to the factor.

I firstly I ran out of fuel once, not a problem, bike came to a stop and switched to reserve fuel, rid to station and topped up. Again I ran out of fuel (different occasion), reserve fuel on, station, filled up.
I recently cleaned my bike and decided to do a few maintenance tasks such as tightening the chain. I also sprayed more or less everything (all around the carb too) with WD40, this is when the problems started occurring. I noticed a slight whirling sound when slowing down after I tightened the chain (different problem all together - any suggestions? Chain too tight?). and I also noticed smoke coming from the cylinders (probably from WD40 heating up and evaporating).

After I parked the bike and came back after, say 5 hours, the bike would start. I put the choke on and still nothing. Ended up bump starting it after 30 minutes of electric start and bump start fails, but it finally got going. I thought it could be the oil as it was very black, so I changed it and not much happened, no different to ignition, I then thought it could be the battery, so after 5 attempts bump starting it I took it for a 1hr ride and then it started fine after, (first time within 30 minutes of not riding). So I thought I had solved the problem. Rid to work, came out after and then... nothing, the bike would start not even after a few bump starts, with help from my friends and after turning the choke OFF, it decided to start, and was fine for another 40 minutes.

The electric start works, but it doesn't 'catch on' and The bike doesn't want to actually get going, the catching sound is there when you hold the ignition switch. But nothing after. I can also add that whilst its was 'catching' and I was holding the ignition switch and clutch down, the battery was either smoking or burning some rubber on top of it, I hadn't even been riding.

And for reference, my bike is a Suzuki Intruder VL.
Thanks all for your help in advance. I would really appreciate any feedback! - Ride safe.

[clancy]

Ok as for your chain, simply with a ruler you can measure your slack or free play in the chain. See what that is and that will tell you if it's slack or tight

As for running issues my advice as always for a carbed bike is this: take the Carb off, strip it down, clean it with petrol, put it back together set up properly. Then fine tune your set up with the bike running ( plenty of very easy to follow guides on the Internet if your not sure )

You also need to check your getting a good spark, if not you need to try a new plug

I'd also check your battery is working properly and your reg/rec if you have any doubts with the battery
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KLX 300r

[faabiian3]

OK thanks, I'll have to get round to doing all of that at some point. It might help to say that the bike starts on a bump start occasionally and after its warm the electric start works.

[Robby]

First off, service it.

Next thing to check is the battery. If it is a standard battery with a semi-transparent casing, check and top-up the water level using distilled water. Then put it on a battery charger overnight.
If it is a sealed (opaque casing) battery, charge it overnight.
Don't rely on a long ride to charge the battery, you would need to ride for about 10 hours to charge up a low battery. I would recommend buying an optimate charger or similar, you'll have it for 20 years or more.

Your carb may have been messed with - it is a 125, these are owned by 17 year olds who have a habit of fiddling with the mixture screw to try and make it go faster. If you are not confident with taking the carb off and cleaning it, at least drain it to remove any water from the float bowl. To do this:
- Turn the fuel tap to OFF
- Hold a small receptacle under the carb drain hole on the bottom of the carb. The lid from a spray can works well.
- Open the drain hole on the bottom of the carb. This is the screw right on the bottom of the carb float bowl, usually opened with a screwdriver. Open it a couple of turns and fuel will come out, should be enough to half-fill the cap from a spray can.
- Close the screw when petrol stops coming out
- Inspect the contents of the container. You may have some rust in there, and/or water. Water will show as individual beaded droplets rolling around in the bottom of the petrol.

Once you have serviced it, sorted the battery, and drained any water out of the carb, it is likely to start behaving.

[faabiian3]

Hi there, thanks for the help! In aware that the guy messed around with the fuel/sir in take manifolds? But he seemed to know what he was doing, he was middle aged. Haha. But on the fixing side, I'm sure I don't have a carb bowl, the bike has 2 cylinders if that helps, but there is no bowl to drain. Am I being stupid?

[faabiian3]

OK I was being stupid, think I've found it, but gas is pouring out, I did switch the fuel to 'pro' I'll attach some photos, any help?

[faabiian3]

So the bike started first time for some reason. I managed to drain half my petrol away as I realized my fuel tap doesn't have an 'off' position. I'm not sure why it started first time, but it probably won't last long.

[Commuter_Tim]

[faabiian3]

Oops, yes the photos were too big😁. And yes I do in fact own a multi meter.

[Vincent]

It sounds like your fuel tap is a vacuum type. In the "On" and "Reserve" position, fuel should only flow when the engine is turning over. The "PRO" you mention is more than likely "PRI" which stands for "prime"....this bypasses the vacuum tap and allows fuel to flow freely by gravity.
The leak, sounds like the floats inside the carburetor float Bowl that Robbie mentions aren't operating correctly. The floats work just like the old type of toilet systern....as the fuel level rises, it lifts the float, which shuts off the valve to prevent the bowl from overflowing.Sometimes the float sticks...other times they are set incorrectly or the valve can be worn or dirty and need replacing or cleaning.
It sound like you have the aptitude for mechanics so stick with it....and get yourself a workshop manual, it'll help out loads
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