Electric problem - bike loses power on starter button

[CptBlack]

The bike is a Triumph Sprint 900 from '95.

When I switch on the ignition first time it's fine (neutral light on, clock working). I push the starter and the power dies, lights and clock off.

If I turn off the ignition, the clock resets. From here turn on the ignition (without pushing the starter) and the clock dies, no neutral light.

I've just measured the voltage on the battery.
All off, I got 12.45V
First ignition it dropped to 12.1, slowly dropping to 11.98V
Push the starter it plummets to 0.2V
With starter released it slowly climbs over about 15 seconds to 0.6V
Turn off ignition: 12.4V
Ignition back on (not starter pushed) drops to 0.2V

Does anyone know what would cause this or where I should investigate next?

[Scythe]

[spriddler]

Do you hear any sort of 'click' when operating the starter?
However.....
Could be a dying battery but the no-load battery voltage is acceptable, so sounds like a bad (corroded/loose) connection twixt battery and starter - on the earth side probably.
Or a failing starter relay/solenoid but IKBA about modern bikes but the symptoms you describe are typical of poor earth side/live side connections.
Just re-read this bit of your post which I missed earlier...

[CptBlack]

[McJamweasel]

The battery is fucked.
____________________
BCF: Be yourself, just don't be an arse.

[Hugh Farking Cant]

[P.]

Unsure if it affects that Triumph, but I know the older ones were similar to the Aprilias, keep giving it shit by trying to start with shit voltage, sprag clutch purchase incoming

[McJamweasel]

[gavbriggs]

A lot of issues on vehicles can be sorted with a new battery. It's best to change it if you suspect it as it will only get worse in he coming winter months
____________________
Recent bikes: Varadero 125 - Mod 2 3/2/14 - Bandit 1200 SK4

[CptBlack]

[P.]

Motobatt, Varta or Yuasa will always get my money.

[doggone]

You can get dippy behaviour from a bad earth, worth trying is to connect the battery negative terminal to a bright bit of metal - with a jump lead - and see if any improvement is obvious.
It might not actually get enough power to start.

Still highly likely a new battery is needed but two years is kind of disappointing.
You should get a trickle charger and plug it in whenever not used for much more than a week.
If it gets below a certain voltage, irreversible chemical changes occur and an accelerating cycle of decline begins prematurely

Modern bikes with alarms, immobilisers and digital clocks will drain the battery which is constrained by space available on a bike.

[WD Forte]

AFAIK
That bike uses a YB14L-A2 battery same as mine and many others

2 years does seem a bit too soon but
its possible its failed internally so you get what looks like a decent
initial voltage, but no current/power when its asked to do some work.
Had that happen.

Could be other reasons.
As mentioned, its wise to check all related wiring,connectors and systems first, plus do a stator test, rectifier test and check for parasitic drain.

After fitting another battery, either new or known good for test purposes, it would be wise to test the charging/starting system
initially and then from time to time to try and catch problems before
they leave you by the side of the road.

[davebike]

900 triumphs like most triumphs eat batteries !

DO NOT KEEP TRYING with a failing battery or you Will do the starter clutch and that will write the bike off as it is a full engine strip to replace on the 900/1200 engines !!

Charge the battery and try once if continuing problems replace battery

Either way check the bike is charging should see 14/15v at 4k revs
____________________
Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com