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Blind hole bearing puller...

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koolio
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Blind hole bearing puller... Reply with quote

I recently had an issue with knocking a wheel bearing in too far, it's taken me a while to get around to doing it.

So rather than just knocking it out I thought I may invest in a proper blind hole bearing puller so I can easily do the job in the future as I have more bikes to come.

I bought this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141279225350?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

It looks just like this:

https://i.ebayimg.com/t/Heavy-Duty-3-Jaw-Pilot-Bearing-Puller-Cars-Trucks-Cycles-Tractors-/00/s/NDgwWDU3MA==/z/SIgAAOxySy9SPY2z/$T2eC16NHJHQFFiH)MZrMBSPY2yyc5g~~60_1.JPG

Now I've tried it by the book and I just can't get it to work.

I tighten the jaws up and catch the edge of the bearing but the jaws just slip out and I end up pulling them along up the inside race, the inner spacer between the bearings blocks me getting right under the bearing with the jaws.

Is this tool actually suited for pulling blind hole wheel bearings as advertised?

I can't seem to be able to do it as the spacer seems to obstruct it.
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smegballs
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont like the look of the angles on those claws.

Most blind bearing pullers I've seen use closely fitting madrels like this:
https://span-trade.co.uk/images/uploads/bpuller4.jpg

Obviously you need loads of the buggers for pulling different bearings, but as they are almost parallel the inner race have a much better gripping action.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got one of those pullers and it works just fine. However, you'll need to drift the first bearing out initially as the spacer will be hard up against the inner race and there won't be enough room to get the claws to grip the bearing properly - even the mandrel type won't work here. Once it's out a touch then the puller will work on the first bearing. It'll remove the second bearing easily.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 25 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
I've got one of those pullers and it works just fine. However, you'll need to drift the first bearing out initially as the spacer will be hard up against the inner race and there won't be enough room to get the claws to grip the bearing properly - even the mandrel type won't work here. Once it's out a touch then the puller will work on the first bearing. It'll remove the second bearing easily.


Doesn't that defeat the object of having it at all?

If I drift then I can just drift both out quite easily.
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G
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Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Re: Blind hole bearing puller... Reply with quote

I've had the most success with the type smegballs pictured, but saldy there doesn't seem to be any real 'easy fix'.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should add that it'll work fine with other blind bearings - it's just the spacer that causes the problem.
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Rigga
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those claws just don't look big enough to me?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 27 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rigga wrote:
Those claws just don't look big enough to me?


They work though. Smile
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DJP
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tbh, that tool looks pretty useless to me.

To work, the jaws would have to get behind the bearing and how are they going to do that if it's in a blind hole?

IMO, you'd have more chance with a rawl bolt, if you have one handy.
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Rigga
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any luck OP?
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koolio
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PostPosted: 12:03 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Any luck OP?


Quote:
I should add that it'll work fine with other blind bearings - it's just the spacer that causes the problem.


It will work very well like you say for blind bearings without the spacer, but with the spacer is exactly what I bought it for, I did believe there was enough of a lip for it to get in.

Regret buying it may send it back, sticking to steel drifts.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

DJP wrote:
Tbh, that tool looks pretty useless to me.

To work, the jaws would have to get behind the bearing and how are they going to do that if it's in a blind hole?

IMO, you'd have more chance with a rawl bolt, if you have one handy.


For non-taper types, it grips the inner race. For taper types where the bearing will separate, there's usually sufficent lip to get a grip on the outer shell. It works.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 28 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mandrels and slide hammer are your best bet.
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SnowTigeress
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PostPosted: 03:53 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just had to invest in one of these tools for the Guzzi

but I got one of these types

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251200174098?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

it arrived yesterday so will try it later
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are you using a blind bearing puller on wheel bearings? Wheel bearings aren't usually a blind fitting, you can get behind them with a drift and knock them out normally.

The only blind bearings you're going to come across often on bikes are the crank bearings in 2-strokes. Even on these you're likely to get more luck removing them with a combination of heat and cold.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

What bike is it on?

On some, particularly small honda's the spacer tube between the wheel bearing is 'located' on ribs so it wont drop completely out the way, but one rib is short , so if you twist and turn and tweek you will eventually get the end of the spacer to drop, enough to get a drift in.

Blind bearing puller usually relies on a clearance space behind the bearing to get the lip of the mandrel behind the inner race; if wheel-bearings are fitted properly, as Rob says, you dont have any clearance, the inner races ought to be hard up against the spacer tube.

Could still be useful for gearboxes and stuff though; but never really the tool for getting wheel-bearings out with.
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

koolio
that puller looks to me the type where the legs go down between the ball bearings so the claws locate between the inner and outer race and the force is applied to the inside face of the outer race prior to raising the bearing.

You may need to carefully remove/smash the f*** out of the bearing cage, but if you intend to replace the bearing anyway...
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koolio
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 29 May 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Why are you using a blind bearing puller on wheel bearings? Wheel bearings aren't usually a blind fitting, you can get behind them with a drift and knock them out normally.

The only blind bearings you're going to come across often on bikes are the crank bearings in 2-strokes. Even on these you're likely to get more luck removing them with a combination of heat and cold.


I smacked it out with a taper drift as standard. The blind bearing puller was sold as a motorcycle wheel bearing puller.

I was looking for a good tool to deal with this as I am often restoring old parts sometimes the bearings are locked solid on 30+ year hubs and are really difficult to dislodge with a drift. On normal bike maintenance a drift is no issue.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just removed the bearings on my project bike, XL125RC, ghetto style, I used a couple of these, worked just fine, they came out easily, for a fraction of the cost of a blind bearing puller, £1 or less!

https://images.ffx.co.uk/tools/FAIFXBP1030.jpg
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a how to:-

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t7VQnNfqJtA
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was really suprised how well the anchor bolts worked, two of the bearing were rusting in!
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Lone-Wolf
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 01 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
I was really suprised how well the anchor bolts worked, two of the bearing were rusting in!


Wotcha.

Yep - the good ol' Rawlbolt - also very useful for fitting bar end mirrors . . . . but don't do 'em up too tight or they'll swage the handlebars and your throttle won't shut off. ( Don't ask me how I know that Embarassed )
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