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Hammerite: Yay or Nay?

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InquisitionCh...
Nova Slayer



Joined: 02 Jul 2014
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Hammerite: Yay or Nay? Reply with quote

Hi guys,
Ive been thinking. Ive got a few small patches of surface rust on my rear shock mounts (nothing serious). Is it possible to use hammerite on bike frames/metal parts? Ive used it on my freelander before to solve a couple of issues but I thought I'd ask first regarding bikes and to see if anyone has done this Question

Cheers! Very Happy
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, it's fine.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothrite for a better (more matching) finish
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 11:37 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tin of hammerite and a paint brush will achieve the very highest quality result.

Ignore the haterz who can't appreciate such fine workmanship, they're just jelly cos they spent far too much on race rep crap and carbon tat.

Mr. Green
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Bezzer
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only problem is Hammerite has gone "green". The current stuff is nowhere near as resilient as the old recipe and people are also complaining the black is more like a dark grey.
Forget the name of the chemical it's missing but the old 6 week waiting period before recoating if not done within 8 hours has gone, it's now 4 hours and no mention of longer time for any further coating. It also tells you not to thin it for spraying, they don't sell their own thinners for it now either which was very similar to trike, if you tried celly thinners with the old stuff it went into balls of snot.
R.I.P Hammerite, now gone the same way as Nitromors, the paint stripper that doesn't.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tis true the new stuff is crap compared to the old.
Back in 1986 I sand-blasted my trials-bike frame back to 'white' metal, and used Red Smoothrite on it. This was after some discussion at the club, with the old boys in the 'Classic' classes as to what was best; with debate over brush-enamel, stove enamel, and the new fangled 'plastic coating'.. which was deemed at the time 'crap'.
Unlike stive or brush enamel, stuff doesn't chip, unlike plastic coating, doesn't go brittle and crack, and let water 'creep' under the coating; yet it stays plastic enough to shrugg off the odd bash and chip.
So, for twenty odd years, just been a case of keeping a pot handy to 'touch up' when I have abraded the thing on a scree slope, or where my boots always rub it off on the rear frame rails just above the foot-pegs...
However... where twenty years ago, you just slapped the stuff on, it went smooth, and that was it... these days it's a bit weird; it doesn't flow like it used to, and if you stretch it a bit thin, then you can see rust bloom coming through after a few wet days.
Still 'works' but seems you have to fuck the finish of and daub it on a bit like under-seal, or thin it and do multi-coats... which was is rather defeating the point of the stuff, in it was supposed to be a 'one-shot' job.
Never gives a great finish, but for a working bike? WTF.. it does a job.
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andy_uk
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bezzer wrote:
Only problem is Hammerite has gone "green". The current stuff is nowhere near as resilient as the old recipe

Yeah, it's a shame :/
The hammered finish is still tougher than the smooth one so I'd recommend that one if you don't mind it looking different.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used some silver smoothrite underside of chrome mudguards. Can't tell you how shite it was. Prep was scrupulous. But the paint came off after a week or two. Not altogether - but small patches here and there. Next will be to try the trad black hammerite, which apparently is far better than any of the modern smooths. Not overly optimistic however.
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Ben90
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do a direct-to-rust range which you apply (after sanding off the worst, flaky bits) to rusted surfaces. I've painted my car brake calipers with it and after 2 years of heat, brake dust, road crap, caustic wheel cleaner and pressure washing they still look as good as the day I painted them, finish isn't amazing but really good for a coat-and-forget application.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben90 wrote:
I've painted my car brake calipers with it and after 2 years of heat, brake dust, road crap, caustic wheel cleaner and pressure washing they still look as good as the day I painted them, finish isn't amazing but really good for a coat-and-forget application.

I did mine off the car and by brush too.
I baked each coat on in the oven and did about 10 coats altogether.
Pretty happy with the finish on mine I must say.
https://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz250/grrthefearless/Brisky%20shots/SAM_0423.jpg
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 22:37 - 05 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Painted my whole truck with the stuff using a 6" roller.

Works fine. Looks shite... Who gives a fuck, I don't!


https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/p417x417/10270669_10152575008035606_7391226841905048872_n.jpg?oh=3de0a5f41a911ef5b172f9c0dbce6692&oe=544E7B83
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Ben90
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PostPosted: 06:10 - 06 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

grr666 wrote:

I did mine off the car and by brush too.
I baked each coat on in the oven and did about 10 coats altogether.


I bet Mrs grr loved that Laughing
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grr666
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 07 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben90 wrote:

I bet Mrs grr loved that Laughing


Nope.... Mr. Green

https://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz250/grrthefearless/Brisky%20shots/SAM_0398.jpg

https://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz250/grrthefearless/Brisky%20shots/SAM_0397.jpg

Laughing Laughing Laughing
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