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ThePeoplesRid...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 08 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 09:48 - 27 Aug 2014    Post subject: New Bike Reply with quote
Hello people.

I just got the best 21st b-day prezzy any young biker could want.....
An upgrade from my scratchy lump of an ER-5 to a superb condition BMW R1100RS. I've always wanted a Beemer and now that I've got one, I have some questions from the boxer twin veterans out there.

What are the main things to look out for in terms of wear and tear?
What are the maintenance requirements of a shaft drive?
Is it true that flat twins are easier to work on?

I understand that you guys might not have the time to answer all these but if you could link me to any articles/websites that have all the important info, please do.

Cheers!
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cheeseman
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 11 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 28 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Never had a Beemer but seriously looked into getting one last year, but the horror stories I read on various forums put me off. All I can say is keep your drive splines lubed and watch out for that nasty, badly designed dry clutch!

G.
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ThePeoplesRid...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 08 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
garethjv wrote:
Never had a Beemer but seriously looked into getting one last year, but the horror stories I read on various forums put me off. All I can say is keep your drive splines lubed and watch out for that nasty, badly designed dry clutch!

G.


Thanks for the reply. Gotta say, that's the first bad report I've heard of a BMW motorbike! Can you link me to any of these forum posts so I can get the full story? Cheers.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 10:43 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pics and we'll help! Wink
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Mudshark
Nearly there...



Joined: 19 May 2014
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Re: New Bike Reply with quote
ThePeoplesRider wrote:


What are the main things to look out for in terms of wear and tear?

Cheers!


you'll go through slippers at an enormous rate, probably best to go for the M&S leatherette jobs.
Zippo lighter to get the pipe lit on the move.


hth
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cheeseman
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 11 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
ThePeoplesRider wrote:
garethjv wrote:
Never had a Beemer but seriously looked into getting one last year, but the horror stories I read on various forums put me off. All I can say is keep your drive splines lubed and watch out for that nasty, badly designed dry clutch!

G.


Thanks for the reply. Gotta say, that's the first bad report I've heard of a BMW motorbike! Can you link me to any of these forum posts so I can get the full story? Cheers.


A quick search found this https://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?11047-R1150RT-transmission-clutch-failure
but I remember finding quite a lot written about BMW gearbox alignment problems that affected certain years of bike quite badly and they would eat through clutch splines on a regular basis. It seemed like pot luck whether you'd end up with one of the bikes affected.
Having said that, if there is a slight chance of a problem with a bike you can bet that everyone with that problem will write about it on a forum somewhere so it looks like a problem is more common than it is. I think this is probably the case with the triumph crankshaft snapping issue too. If you look too closely then all bikes seem to have bad issues!

But it does seem to be wise to check and lube the final drive splines whenever you change the tyre. This goes for all shaft drive bikes. The problem arises here when a previous owner only gets the tyres changed at a garage and the monkeys don't bother to relube the splines with the correct high moly paste.

As an owner of a shaft drive bike, I have to say they aren't as maintenance free compared to chain driven bikes as I was led to believe! Get a Scottoiler on a chain and I'd say that beats a shaft drive anyday.

Just my 2c worth.

Gareth
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



Joined: 02 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
garethjv wrote:
Get a Scottoiler on a chain and I'd say that beats a shaft drive anyday.
What makes you say that? Scottoilers don't absolve you of chain tensioning, and there's no commensurate activity needed on a shaft. I have yet to have even the slightest problem with the shaft on my GS - apply fresh oil every 15k, have a brief look at it, job done.

I've had chains last for that length of time, but only because I've maintained them carefully, and I've had to adjust them throughout that period anyway.
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cheeseman
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 11 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
nowhere.elysium wrote:
garethjv wrote:
Get a Scottoiler on a chain and I'd say that beats a shaft drive anyday.
What makes you say that? Scottoilers don't absolve you of chain tensioning, and there's no commensurate activity needed on a shaft. I have yet to have even the slightest problem with the shaft on my GS - apply fresh oil every 15k, have a brief look at it, job done.

I've had chains last for that length of time, but only because I've maintained them carefully, and I've had to adjust them throughout that period anyway.


Mainly because a chain is easily adjusted/inspected/lubricated etc. whereas you can't see what's going on with the transmission components of a shaft drive and it's not reasonable to dismantle them when buying a used bike. Sure a brand new shaft drive bike isn't going to be problematic but it's an unknown risk with a used bike, especially a K series BMW.

The main advantage of a shaft drive is you can undertake long trips without fannying around with the chain half way through. My point is that the same is true with a Scottoiler (or similar products I guess Laughing ).

Gareth
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barrkel
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
nowhere.elysium wrote:
I've had chains last for that length of time, but only because I've maintained them carefully, and I've had to adjust them throughout that period anyway.

I've found chains with scottoilers on them do not follow a straight line graph for adjustment. Usually, no adjustment is required for the first 10k, then a little bit of adjustment perhaps every 3k for the next 10k, then every 1k for the next 3k, then every 100 miles, then you need a new chain and sprockets.

In other words, the chain needs no adjustment for ages, then it begins to fall off a cliff.

These numbers may need to be scaled up or down depending on chain gauge, bike power, riding style, amount of tolerable lube fling etc., but that's the basic pattern I've seen.

I've adjusted the chain on my VFR twice - once after purchase, once before my tour this year - and I've done about 20k on it. Chain is still fairly tight on back of rear sprocket, so still doesn't need replacing. And I've only cleaned it once.
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Bikes: S1000R, SH350; Exes: Vity 125, PS125, YBR125, ER6f, VFR800, Brutale 920, CB600F, SH300x4
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Mudshark
Nearly there...



Joined: 19 May 2014
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa352/BabyBlues78/original-post-thread-direction.png

having owned a Kawa GT550 in the past I can't say I ever really thought about the shaft-drive much. And the current BMW is driven by a rubber band, so still no lube/check/adjust "constantly"

but then I'm getting old and cranky
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cheeseman
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 11 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 29 Aug 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote
Mudshark wrote:
https://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa352/BabyBlues78/original-post-thread-direction.png

having owned a Kawa GT550 in the past I can't say I ever really thought about the shaft-drive much. And the current BMW is driven by a rubber band, so still no lube/check/adjust "constantly"

but then I'm getting old and cranky


I currently have a shaft drive Pan ST1100 and chain drive W650. So far the shaft drive has given me more concern than it should have - because of worn splines! But hopefully that's sorted now, but I won't know until I next take the wheel off!

I think the GT550s were pretty much bullet proof. Don't know how Kawasaki were able to get it so right so long ago but others still struggle!
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