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Rieju RS1 Project

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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:30 - 23 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Easy-X I'd take a more pragmatic approach and use or devise
seperate regulator and flasher relays using off the shelf stuff

Having a hard to find box of potted components that does two seperate jobs may be convenient during manufacture but its a costly PITA for owners trying to keep stuff running later on.
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 23 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:



Putting the number and motorbike maker into a search like this:

rieju 00G01001841

Gives, amongst others:

https://www.dataparts.eu/en/regulator

Which says it's "REGULATOR 6 PINS w. INDICATOR" compatible with RIEJU RS1 50 Sport -01 RIEJU RS1 50 Evo 99.

But. Pfffft!


Hmmm... it's a confusing one! Confused

That one is clearly right one and says it fits Derbi Predator 50, Atlantis, Rieju RS1 etc...

The link to racingplanet one I posted says it fits Derbi Predator 50 and Derbi Atlantis... but they say it won't fit RS1 Brick Wall


Easy-X wrote:
Looking at the circuit diagram, let's split this into two parts...

Regulator: 2x Yellow (magneto output) Red (+ve) Black (ground)

This looks like a standard regulator. I would imagine anything that could handle the same current as the old one would work.

Flasher: Green looks to be switched power (check this is +12V when the ignition's on) and Purple is flash output.

Assuming the Green wire is what I think it is then there's really nothing special that this 6-wire jobby is doing that couldn't be replaced with a separate 4-wire regulator, 2-wire flasher affair.


WD Forte wrote:
Like Easy-X I'd take a more pragmatic approach and use or devise
seperate regulator and flasher relays using off the shelf stuff

Having a hard to find box of potted components that does two seperate jobs may be convenient during manufacture but its a costly PITA for owners trying to keep stuff running later on.


I may be leaning this way (though it would be nice to just plug and play if unit is not overly expensive and avaliable in UK).

As said before though, electrics still somehow baffle me, it's like some form of wizardry to me! Embarassed

I think the assumption for green wire is correct (can check tomorrow to be sure). Looking at off the shelf 4 wire rectifier units they have an input for 'Vsense', is this what the green wire would be?

Then how would the relay be wired? Does that need to also pass through the regulator? Confused

Thanks for all previous and future input on this! It is highly appreciated! Thumbs Up
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Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 23 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its piece of piss to sort out if electrics don't baffle you
Fair enough, not everyone is happy playing with 'wires n shit' Very Happy
but we're talking pretty basic stuff here.

If it were my bike I'd use two seperate units for charging and flashers
for practical reasons if nothing else.
If we had the wiring diagram, I or others could suggest how to do the conversion using cheap and easily obtainable components
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 23 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

we're talking pretty basic stuff here.


Crying or Very sad

WD Forte wrote:

If we had the wiring diagram, I or others could suggest how to do the conversion using cheap and easily obtainable components


Just_James wrote:
Easy-X wrote:
6 wires? I would hazard a guess that 4 are for the regulator and 2 are for the flasher unit as in two separate things stuck in one case Thinking

Alternatively the flasher unit could have its ground tied internally to the regulator and the two pins are separate flasher and clock bulb outputs.


I dunno? This is wiring diagram

https://i.imgur.com/WFLwXTe.jpg

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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 23 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just_James wrote:

Crying or Very sad

Ah, so. Balance the likelihood of a new or secondhand component working and saving you a very lot of hassle, glasshopper.

Have you got a number off the original component? Have you psoted it? I cannot remember. I am under the weather for non-virus-related reasons.
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 23 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not got a number off original unit unfortunately. I did try but a wire brush revealed ' Made In Spain' and 'Pat Pending' Laughing
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 00:04 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just_James wrote:
Not got a number off original unit unfortunately. I did try but a wire brush revealed ' Made In Spain' and 'Pat Pending' Laughing

How much is a cheap rectifier that may or may not do the job? How much is a separate flasher unit? What about the hassle? Unless you're on an extreme budget, I might be inclined to say "Oh, effit" and try a possibility. With care, if it does not work, might be able to send it back if it is not a goer.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hang on, just seen you have posted a WD.
I dont follow every post in every thread (aint nobody got time for that)

I says the bottom left item is the winker switch when it's obviously the starter relay
Top right the 'kickstand locking screw' and 'regulator lock screw look dodgy to me

I don't trust that diagram, looks a bit crap to me
had a quick shufty

I reckon the 'kickstand locking screw' is probably the CDI unit and/or ignition coil.

Regulator 6 pin:

Purple, out to flasher switch
( blue right Orange left)
Yellow, AC in
Red, DC out
Black, ground
Green, DC in to flasher unit

easy enough to mod IMO
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Just_James wrote:
Not got a number off original unit unfortunately. I did try but a wire brush revealed ' Made In Spain' and 'Pat Pending' Laughing

How much is a cheap rectifier that may or may not do the job? How much is a separate flasher unit? What about the hassle? Unless you're on an extreme budget, I might be inclined to say "Oh, effit" and try a possibility. With care, if it does not work, might be able to send it back if it is not a goer.


Yes it's certainly beem a consideration! It's just been really confusing... Why would racingplanet say it doesn't fit if it does? Surely the part should share the same number or sku somewhere? Ok I may be the only person on the planet with an RS1 but there must be somewhere that shows it's the same part number? Confused

I expect I'd struggle with a return if they've stated the part won't be suitable for my make / model Confused
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 00:19 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Hang on, just seen you have posted a WD.
I dont follow every post in every thread (aint nobody got time for that)

I says the bottom left item is the winker switch when it's obviously the starter relay
Top right the 'kickstand locking screw' and 'regulator lock screw look dodgy to me

I don't trust that diagram, looks a bit crap to me
had a quick shufty

I reckon the 'kickstand locking screw' is probably the CDI unit and/or ignition coil.

Regulator 6 pin:

Purple, out to flasher switch
( blue right Orange left)
Yellow, AC in
Red, DC out
Black, ground
Green, DC in to flasher unit

easy enough to mod IMO


Yes, wording on the diagram is definitely dodgy (I should have mentioned that) but fom visual inspection I can confirm it's correct.

The 'winker switch' is indeed the starter relay. 'Kickstand Lock Screw' is CDI and 'Regulator Lock Screw' is regulator / flasher relay
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

there ya go then
Cut off the purple and green wires and connect em to a 2 wire flasher unit
Green power in Purle power out to switch
maybe add a ground if its a 3 wire type.

Buy of these and connect the 2 yellow wires to 2 terminals of the 3 way plug and red to red and black to black on the 2 way plug for DC out.
job done

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexmoto-Pulse-Adrenaline-125-Supermoto-Reg-Rec-Regulator-Rectifier/392351174497?hash=item5b59f3cf61%3Ag%3AeegAAOSwueNanLvq&LH_ItemCondition=3
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm... I discounted the "winker relay" and lock screw stuff as a bad translation but the more I look at that diagram the more I dislike it Sad

Having said that I still doubt that relay does anything too bizarre and I stand by my regulator + flasher unit idea. How to tackle it though if electrics aren't your thing Thinking Any friends that might help?

As simply as I can put it:

Regulator: two wires come in from the magneto, two wires go out to the battery. Super generic example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECTIFIER-REGULATOR-Wassells-Solid-State-Single-Phase-12V-160W/264365826934

The yellow wires are AC so it generally doesn't matter which is which. Red & black go out to the battery. (Positive & Negative respectively)

A generic 2-wire flasher unit:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-21W-LED-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Scooter-Flasher-Relay-Can-Unit-2-pin-ANY-WATT/113075695559

In this case the Terminal marked "B" is connected to switched power from the ignition and the "L" is the output to the handlebar switch.

If one were to replace the combo unit then:

a) verify all the colours go where you think they should. "Where do these yellow wires go?" etc.

b) cut off the plug and fit new connectors - the scary bit!
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, thanks again for the help with this. Thumbs Up

Just trying to be confident before I commit to buy....

So, happy enough with flasher relay, straight forward enough with green and purple wires.

The rectifier, I'm still not sure. Why does the yellow go to two seperate pins when it is spliced together (according to diagram)?

Was looking at this cheap rectifier
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-4-Wire-Full-Wave-Black-Motorcycle-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-DC-Bike-Quad/173420139743

Wiring instructions say:

Yellow, White or Pink = AC Inputs (from the stator to the regulator rectifier)
Red = V+(from the regulator rectifier to the positive battery terminal via a fuse)
Green = V-(from the regulator rectifier to the negative battery terminal)
Black = Vsense

So that would be yellow to my yellow (both?)
Red to my red
Green to my black
Black to ? Confused
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send a message to the bloke on eBay and see if he'll take a tenner, or £12.50, £15 or whatever you think fit. You never know ("Racing Planet have one for £17.94, and this is a second-hand one for £19.99, & I'm skint" Smile
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or you could save all that bother and just type in "4 wire regulator" Laughing

As to the diagram, it makes literally no sense Confused

Again, WTF is a "kickstand locking screw" Smile and why are 3 wires going into it and only one going out?

I would suggest tracing back the yellow wires to see where they go. My bet is they go straight to the magneto and aren't joined at all.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Or you could save all that bother and just type in "4 wire regulator" Laughing

Christ on a bike. What's the "cheap alternative" setup going to cost, plus all the effing about? I'm dead tight, because I have no money coming in at all, but not £5 tight! If the bloke says forff, he does, but it's only one message!

Mind you, the way things are going, I might soon be that tight...
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you get a decent, understandable reply then at least you know you've got a good seller so I concede the point.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:44 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeez, Talk about making things complicated,

Here's an even cheaper ( £6.91)one with 2 AC inputs to make it even easier and cheaper


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-4-Wire-Full-Wave-Black-Motorcycle-Regulator-Rectifier-12V-DC-Bike-Quad/392217542260?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225076%26meid%3Da40ed8d56ca54c5fbe3ddc1d4c32af78%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D283599544654%26itm%3D392217542260%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithSearchFilter%26brand%3DUnbranded%2FGeneric&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Here's a 2 pin flasher relay
£ 10.64 for both
how feckin cheap and easy do you want it?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-2-Pin-Blinker-Adjustable-LED-Flasher-Relay-Turn-Signal-Indicator-J7/264453695822?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d92ab294e:g:T70AAOSwnVhaLjtM&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qW4jMuzpugidr27Ih4dumLYm01iqBFwI7a%2FwIQ9v4fW4U2bvPAytnyCLUmRmza6%2FsgytXrmZHhLipJgMKiqrUE2dWQR3BK19JhTtevtPaJ05asK5VC0LWbPjx7OR71Rc88Mfy1K4mOrCIcCMtDVKAkVXw2LL9xF0wUVt8AqFszfnSgKRv6Z21hzDP1tO4pL3u7GLmv02vct8nuA%2FrVybPEIJ7eJBuk8VxBkgjAYxSF2Qe0R0nuO2WxhutJpsizjmUbuCpv3evX7tWpcZo%2BrSGyxEiL74YQVdripV9XrDPAJMiN1DVwILp8enL19P%2F2QK6%2BVn%2B2GaE%2F%2B2z7Sb8HRko3d7SjrR9zYkx91y41bPLT5A8ZvN%2F%2Bj64XRCQAeh8ZrsD%2F3jUP30%2FCdNMxrtvNinCOdGsV6XUy09x2wY3%2FRSX1e4Zrk%2BTvEIDucAlsKu%2BeFy03X72M7AvEwpMq91i49La6SnlomjwbotHunBnSV47wYqEOkhRVAFFU5pedyylPkz6G1O2NI1rsXTx8nBod8k8BGfXblsoeGtkoXXY7hpqWY514pkUkMAUluhSHKfxGFLlFW1xRG%2FZiLvaxEffoRRNvNkTxmFh3i3GQ1eZK87F49MncDyLE%2FAb5xQHgRkBKUV8N3VMPfIYLowEHVekVa%2FooDLHFZcyVZ6EItXa3rDIC6ioIySjDg5S7rjWESYCLC9%2F2yu1HRNeLKdoexs36yfXhdk5t6SvBSgU%2FFqWCc9HjdqMbEyjbOfoCsySAkK%2FBbErU%3D&checksum=264453695822869dc480bc794b2999a0ec5447475d38
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 25 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well to be fair, I haven't insisted that it be really cheap (the original one I ordered from Germany was £45 posted) and what's simple to you isn't necessarily to me. Smile

I don't mind spending money to solve the issues but obviously want to avoid wasting money on something that doesn't work or is beyond my capabilities to cellotape together.... and if a generic £5 rectifier does the exact same thing that a £20 one does, I'd rather make that saving too.... I'm self employed and have zero income right now Laughing

I was asking for information about the wiring instructions that are on the listing for the four wire rectifier as I'm struggling to make sense of it.

They are exactly the same as the ones on the listing you posted (I won't mention that it's £1.82 more expensive than the one I posted)


Yellow, White or Pink = AC Inputs (from the stator to the regulator rectifier)
Red = V+(from the regulator rectifier to the positive battery terminal via a fuse)
Green = V-(from the regulator rectifier to the negative battery terminal)
Black = Vsense



Riejufixing wrote:
Send a message to the bloke on eBay and see if he'll take a tenner, or £12.50, £15 or whatever you think fit. You never know ("Racing Planet have one for £17.94, and this is a second-hand one for £19.99, & I'm skint" Smile


I'm thinking maybe worth a punt for £10 or less
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Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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nick.h
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 04 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got another option for you, the RS1 was my first bike and its currently waiting down the side of the house ready to be scrapped. There's not much left of it but there's still some useful parts I'm sure. No promises it works but must be worth a try. Reg is yours if you want it.
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nick.h
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 04 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just took it off the bike, it cleaned up well - nothing obviously wrong with it. If you still need it PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post.
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Just_James
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 29 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

nick.h wrote:
Just took it off the bike, it cleaned up well - nothing obviously wrong with it. If you still need it PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post.


Absolutely top bloke! Thumbs Up

Arrived safely

https://i.imgur.com/9UGauus.jpg


Fitted today and it's working perfectly!

Many thanks again! Thumbs Up
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Current Bikes / Projects: 1999 Rieju RS1 50
Previous bikes - 1986 DT125R (field bike), 1989 KX250, 1980 KX420 (with 500cc big bore), 1992 YZ250, 1988 KX500, 1989 XR250R, 1988 VFR400R NC24, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 2008 Rieju RS2 50 , 1993 Honda NSR 125
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