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Lightweight (Airportable) Landrover rebuild.

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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 07 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hose clips, I hate them. Just spent the last hour removing hose clips from ancient hoses.
40 year old hose clips tend to corrode and never seem to want to come apart correctly, often they seem welded to the hose.
Then you try and remove the hose and realise the only way you are going to do it is to cut the hose off which tend to be easy on a motorcycle and a nightmare in an engine bay especially when the alternator belts are in the way.
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69.9mph
Crazy Courier



Joined: 20 May 2006
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 08 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
Pedal rubbers?

Riding bikes all these years must've softened you up Laughing


A missing or worn brake pedal rubber will be an MOT failure. Wink
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pdg
World Chat Champion



Joined: 15 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 08 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

69.9mph wrote:
pdg wrote:
Pedal rubbers?

Riding bikes all these years must've softened you up Laughing


A missing or worn brake pedal rubber will be an MOT failure. Wink


My land rover hasn't had rubber on any of the pedals for over 40 years and it's never failed an mot because of it.

'Missing or excessively worn' is only a fail if it's supposed to be there originally.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 17 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Some good news from DVLA for once.

I've been phoning DVLA for the last 3 weeks as I'm trying to get the vehicle record sorted. When they changed to the new style log books they didn't issue one for this but they did change the vehicle record. Where on the previous log book it was registed as PLG (private light goods, basically a car) on the new it had put on some weight, 1.5 tons of it which took it from a class 4 MOT to a class 7 which is commercial.
DVLA also managed to make it 13 years younger which meant it wouldn't be able to pass an MOT as the regs got a lot stricter.

So spoke to DVLA today and I have been told that they will now be issueing an age related registration number although they are trying to find the original documents submitted at registration to find out what weight it was registered at before they sort that side of the problem.


This actually ended up taking 4 months to sort but happily it was sorted in the end.
Initially DVLA wanted to find the original 'cast' documents from when it was registered after leaving the forces so called for them from microfilm storage. Then DVLA wanted to know why it was registered as 'Private Light Goods' yet its weight was listed as 3499Kg when it couldn't be that weight in that class and the questions just went on.

After 3 months the pointless questions stopped coming and DVLA didn't want any more documents than I originally supplied. They didn't even want pictures of the various chassis plates to prove it wa the correct vehicle they just sort of went quiet and issued a new registration number which is unknown without a valid MOT and changed the weight on the V5 so it has gone from a Q plate to KWY ***N which is a welcome change and should make it considerably easier to insure and increase its value to a degree.
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nowhere.elysium
The Pork Lord



Joined: 02 Mar 2009
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 17 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
After 3 months ... they just sort of went quiet and issued a new registration number which is unknown without a valid MOT...

I would imagine that they just invoked the "FFS, not this guy again" clause and did it to keep you quiet Laughing
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 17 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

nowhere.elysium wrote:
I would imagine that they just invoked the "FFS, not this guy again" clause and did it to keep you quiet Laughing


It was more the 'we don't really want to deal with this but we screwed it up' clause as all the questions were answered with 'I have no idea why DVLA did that but it wasn't at my behest'.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 01:03 - 18 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got much more to do before it is MOT able?


How are you going to get the graffiti of the side, or are you planning on leaving it to fit in with the hipster east end? Wink
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 01:30 - 18 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
Have you got much more to do before it is MOT able?


Just replace the back of the chassis but I want it usable not just legal.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 19 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

trying to replace the bottom radiator hose is becoming a bit of a nightmare. removal was easy, I just cut it off but fitting the new one is not easy.

So far I have had to remove the two belts that run the 90amp generator, not easy as it hadn't been adjusted in 20+ years so was solid on its mounts.
Then had to remove the airfilter and mount. The base is held on with 3 rusted solid bolts that you have blind access to and requires a fine ratchet 72+ teeth. Anything less and there isn't enough space to turn the ratchet.
The generator mounts are still in the way but I don't really want to have to remove the generator as well as this there is a solid oil cooler line in the way but I really don't want to have to remove the oil cooler and radiator to just fit a rad hose, seems rather other the top.

As the air cleaner mount is now off I will have to clean it up and repaint it prior to re-fitting so thats another job to do.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160119_151434.jpg

The lower hose is now sitting on the side in the kitchen with a couple of large sockets in either end expanding then for easier fitting so hopefully this will be fitted shortly.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160119_150709.jpg

Heres another part thats just been refurbed, the air filter inlet pipe.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160119_151559.jpg
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 05 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to fit the lower rad coolant hose today. Now its warmer and the hose expanded after having a couple of sockets shoved in its ends it just slipped straight into place.
Hopefully next time I'm off I might have some time to do up the hose clips and some more work.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160405_160853.jpg
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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 05 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Without reading through, has it been started or turned over at all since the rebuild?

Dedication though, first sign of rusty bolts it completely destroys my enthusiasm Thumbs Up
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've not started it since last October as I stripped most of the cooling system off it.
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pdg
World Chat Champion



Joined: 15 Sep 2012
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PostPosted: 12:10 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it started in October it'll start now.

I didn't start my series 3 for nearly 4 years - charged the flat battery, put petrol instead of water in the fuel tank and off it went.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 06 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
If it started in October it'll start now.


It was 20ish years last time.

Kind of at the point where I wonder what to do next so heres a list that I may or may not update as I go along.

Front prop gaitor replace and regrease
Rear prop gaitor replace and regrease
Replace front screens
Oil change swivels
Oil change gearbox
Oil change transfer case
Oil change overdrive
Oil change front diff
Oil change rear diff
Fit hardtop correctly
Fit rear door correctly
Replace Alternator belts
Replace fan belt
Finish and refill coolant system
Strip and rebuild transmission brake

Rear X member I'm going to have someone else do I've decided.

And this is the problem, its pretty much all the bits that you don't see so it saps your will as you see no difference taking place.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 08 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting rebuild, what stopped you from doing a full stripdown and starting with a replacement chassis? I cant help feeling you've done all this work and still have the rear chassis to repair...
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 08:45 - 09 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

B5234FT wrote:
Interesting rebuild, what stopped you from doing a full stripdown and starting with a replacement chassis? I cant help feeling you've done all this work and still have the rear chassis to repair...


It doesn't need a new chassis it just needs a new cross member. Considering the price of a new galvanised chassis (Richards) and delivery wouldn't have left me with much change from £2000 is seems a bit extreme to replace the chassis when all it needs is a £90 part welding on that even with someone else doing the work is unlikely to break £400 in total.
On top of this not having a double garage to do the work in would mean I have to somehow store a new chassis somewhere along with all the parts I strip off. On top of this a chassis up rebuild would require many new parts as various old parts would be damaged/unremovable/damaged during removal.

Bottom line is, why make things more difficult than they need to be.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 11 Apr 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
B5234FT wrote:
Interesting rebuild, what stopped you from doing a full stripdown and starting with a replacement chassis? I cant help feeling you've done all this work and still have the rear chassis to repair...


It doesn't need a new chassis it just needs a new cross member. Considering the price of a new galvanised chassis (Richards) and delivery wouldn't have left me with much change from £2000 is seems a bit extreme to replace the chassis when all it needs is a £90 part welding on that even with someone else doing the work is unlikely to break £400 in total.
On top of this not having a double garage to do the work in would mean I have to somehow store a new chassis somewhere along with all the parts I strip off. On top of this a chassis up rebuild would require many new parts as various old parts would be damaged/unremovable/damaged during removal.

Bottom line is, why make things more difficult than they need to be.


Fair enough! As long as the rest is ok then quite right.

I remember a mate of mine a few years ago doing a crossmember, and then outriggers and then patching main legs and then winding up pulling it all out anyway which is why I asked.

Very cool little landy!
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 30 May 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got bored today so finished replacing the coolant system. Now I need to get some strong coolant system flush to clear out the detritus of 20 years standing.
Managed to run it up again without the generator connected, it needs new belts really but I think I am just going to refit the originals for now. Once that is done I can run the engine with the flush up to temperature, may check the fueling at the same time.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 07 Jun 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spent today working on the Deauville as its up for its MOT and flushing the coolant system on the Land Rover as it has to be run for periods of 15-30 minutes at a time.

I used Holts 2 part flush, 1st part is a flush, I'm guessing mildy acidic but not sure and the water that came out looked like this...

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160607_184746_1465325454061.jpg

Yep its disgusting. Full of corrosion and sludge, in fact after draining the bucket this was left in it...

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160607_191237_1465325453642.jpg

So 40 year old collant system full of corrosion and sludge now has a lot less left in it.

The 2nd part neutralises the 1st part but the instructions are potentially dangerous. It says to use immediately after using the first part and to fill the system with cold engine, a recipe for getting scalded as you remove the rad cap and cracking the block when you add cold water. Instead I let the engine cool and then added warm water and the 2nd part.

Now I am going to leave it until morning when I will drain it, run some cold water through it and then fill with coolant.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 08 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for some more work.

This weekend the windscreens will get changed. They are made of laminated triplex glass. Harder than many car screen but they do fail after a while, normally by delaminating.
If you take a look at the following pictures the black is where the windscreen mastic has been pulled into the laminate by capillary action, same thing with the white areas but that is water.

Mastic.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160708_111522_1467994002126.jpg

Water

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160708_111527_1467994001918.jpg

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160708_111534_1467994001280.jpg

The screens are held in place by mastic and L sections clamping them in place.

All around the edges of the screens there are white or black tide marks so as the screens are only £28 each I thought it best to just replace them.
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B5234FT
Brolly Dolly



Joined: 28 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: 09:52 - 11 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did it go? Oldschool screens with rubber seals are always satisfying to do!
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 21:33 - 17 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sp the screens are now done. We took off the retainers and presssed the screens out in one piece and then my assistant for the weekend had the fun job of using an angle grinder with wire wheel to clean the window mastic off of all the retainers.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160709_141229_1468076092986.jpg

We also had to clean up the windscreen frame of the mastic, again the angle grinder.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160709_135617_1468076093555.jpg

As said the windscreen was fitted using clear silicone this time, lots cleaner to do.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160709_141237.jpg

and the final result with new wipers looks like this

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160717_202937_1468784741019.jpg

Updated to do list

Front prop gaitor replace and regrease
Rear prop gaitor replace and regrease
Oil change gearbox
Oil change transfer case
Oil change overdrive
Oil change rear diff
Fit hardtop correctly
Fit rear door correctly
Strip and rebuild transmission brake
Rear cross member
Exhaust leak at manifold
Replace silencer
Replace door seals

Some new bits in that list as well.


Last edited by sickpup on 01:31 - 18 Jul 2016; edited 1 time in total
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 17 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the last few days I have been in bed with ManFlu but managed to do a bit this afternoon. Decided to change the oil on the front axle and the swivels, the bits that steer.

This is the back of the right hand swivel, you can see the brake plate on the right and the level bung half way down the body.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160717_200606_1468784741534.jpg

You drain the oil, assuming there is any left in the swivel through a plug in the bottom and then refill by injecting oil throught the level plug until it leaks out.
Annoyingly the Haynes book of lies says each side should hold 1.4 litres but in fact only hold about 500ml. It also seems that there are no torque settings.

The front axle is pretty much the same, drain through the bottom and then I filled via the front level plug which can be seen here.

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160717_202924_1468784741449.jpg

The rear axle is draining overnight as it got dark.

Unfortunately this weeks assistant found an exhaust leak between the manifold and downpipe but didn't bother to fix it so I will have to add this to the 'to do' list.


Last edited by sickpup on 02:01 - 19 Jul 2016; edited 1 time in total
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sickpup
Old Timer



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PostPosted: 23:06 - 18 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Refilled the rear diff this morning. Easiest to do it by removing the rear right wheel as this gives good access to the filling point.

This picture gives a good view of the diff

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160718_164250_1468869229269.jpg

And under the oil and fur the diff fill hole

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160718_164254_1468869229170.jpg

And a clearer picture with the crap cleared away

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160718_223041.jpg

The next job was to drain the Main Gearbox and the Transfer box. Not too hard to drain but to fill the transfer box is an absolute nightmare if you don't have an oil filler pump or a pit.
Filling is via a level plug so side entry. You have lay on your back with your oil container above you pouring into a side mounted hole. It is hard enough to see let alone fill so here's a crap photo of it.

Its the cleanish bit to the left of the rounded bit

https://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad297/750RK/LandRover/20160718_200037_1468869228871.jpg

I managed to do it by injecting the oil 100ml at a time using a syringe, 2.5 litres of it.

Back to work tomorrow but may have time to refill the main gearbox.

Updated to do list

Front prop gaitor replace and regrease
Rear prop gaitor replace and regrease
Refill gearbox with oil
Oil change overdrive
Fit hardtop correctly
Fit rear door correctly
Strip and rebuild transmission brake
Rear cross member
Exhaust leak at manifold
Replace silencer
Replace door seals

Work out a way to clean the underneath of dust and oil.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 19 Jul 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:


Work out a way to clean the underneath of dust and oil.



I did the London to Southend Bike ride on Sunday, somewhere along the route was a place that could pressure wash the underside of your car. I do think it was towards the Southend end of the route but can't remember where, it's the first place I've seen offer that service. At a glance it looks like a 'proper' system not just Petyr on his back with a Karcher.

Gis a shout if you are tackling this during a weekday, I'll pop round and give moral support.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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