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| RedPanda |
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 RedPanda Could Be A Chat Bot

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| Barton316 |
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 Barton316 Two Stroke Sniffer
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| Minty |
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 Minty World Chat Champion

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| Ste |
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 Ste Not Work Safe

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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

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 Posted: 18:44 - 07 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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I'd check the chain tension, the clutch free play (there should be just enough slack at the lever that you can wiggle it before the tension comes on), and give it a good firm kick up into 2nd.
If you've done all that and it's still finding a false neutral, then I guess we'll see you in the Workshop section. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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 trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion

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| RedPanda |
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| trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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 trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion

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| Ste |
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 Ste Not Work Safe

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 Posted: 19:33 - 07 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

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| RedPanda |
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 Posted: 19:51 - 07 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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I have some Scottoiler waiting for when the weather really turns. That'll hopefully keep salt and other rubbish away.
The engine oil is a dark brown. I check it a couple of times a week at least, I think my dealer over filled a little as it's been above the mark for the past month. Since then it's done just over 500 miles. |
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| Dave70 |
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 Dave70 World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 22:11 - 07 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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| Taught2BCauti... |
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 Taught2BCauti... World Chat Champion

Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :    
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 Posted: 07:55 - 08 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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I had a similar problem when I changed my boots for some that had a thicker sole. There wasn't enough adjustment on the linkage push rod, and I had to remove the linkage from the selector shaft and move it around by one spline. ____________________ Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
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| Rogerborg |
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 Rogerborg nimbA

Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:01 - 08 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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On a 125, if in doubt, change the engine oil.
It's only about a litre, just use the cheapest 10W40 from your local supermarket. It'll meet or exceed the grade of oil that it's designed to run on (the CBF125 is made in and for India). Avoid high cost car specific oils that boast about friction reducers. ____________________ Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike |
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| Val |
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 Val World Chat Champion

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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

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| Val |
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 Val World Chat Champion

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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

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| RedPanda |
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| Val |
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 Val World Chat Champion

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 Rogerborg nimbA

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| Val |
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 Val World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 23:03 - 09 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 08:26 - 10 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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| Val wrote: | | Northern Monkey wrote: | Honda specification is for 10w30. My re commendation Is nearer the correct specification than any of the oils you list, which are all too viscous |
agree to disagree here yours is a car oil 5W-30 not approved for MCs, I have suggested Motul 10W-40 motorcycle JASO MA2 approved oil with better then Honda minimum required specification. And if you have any idea about oil you will know 5W oil has less absolute viscosity then 10W oil, which itself is not necessarily bad thing. I am not saying that this engine will probably go with cooking oil, but these are the facts  |
Once upon a time, I did a Degree in chemical and process engineering, I do understand specific visocity, the measurement of visosity, and the effects of temperature on viscosity.
I also know that the engine spends a lot more time at operating temperature than cold, and for this reason, I know that the second number is more important than the first number when choosing an oil ____________________ Fisty: after polishing the tank with the glistenng beads of sweat from my full hot scrotum, I filled the headrace bearings with 10cc of my manmilk |
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| Val |
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 Val World Chat Champion

Joined: 03 Nov 2012 Karma :   
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 Posted: 12:37 - 11 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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| Northern Monkey wrote: |
Once upon a time, I did a Degree in chemical and process engineering, I do understand specific visocity, the measurement of visosity, and the effects of temperature on viscosity.
I also know that the engine spends a lot more time at operating temperature than cold, and for this reason, I know that the second number is more important than the first number when choosing an oil |
ok I am confused now - it is proven the engine wear happens mostly when the engine is cold so in that case your oil will be better because 5W means better lubrication then my 10W in the winter and when engine starts on cold.
However when engine is hot the second number is most important and here 30 is worst then 40 - the bigger the second number the better viscosity and lubrication in summer and when engine is hot.
Of course the things are always more complicated because it matters what type of engine you have and what else is lubricated here - like the clutch. Not to mention each company has its own additives like Castrol Mangatec that claims to glue like magnet the oil particles to the engine parts hence less wear on cold starts. And motorcycle 4T oils has different additives then car 4T oils.
Once upon a time I happen to sell parts and oils for a living
Lets leave it here with a draw shall we
The first number with or without letter W means the grade of the oil. There are 11 viscosity grades: 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W, 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60. These numbers are often referred to as the "weight" of a motor oil, and single-grade motor oils are often called "straight-weight" oils. The lower the number before W you have oil that can work on coolest winter temperature. Again the higher the grade number without W means the oil can work fine in higher summer temperatures. You cannot have your cake and eat it - nobody can produce good oilthat cover all temperatures like 0W-60. So in hot climate countries you buy 20W-60 oil and in realy cold places you use 0W-30 oils. And of course there are engine limitations here to what oil your engine can accept.
Note you may have oil without W when we have single grade oil like oil 40 for example.
In modern cars/bikes we use multi-grade oil so that we can drive the car in the winter and in the summer without changing the oil.
Say W is winter but its related to the number cannot be used alone 10W oil grade means absolute viscosity of the oil:
Absolute Viscosity is a measure of a fluid's internal resistance to flow and may be thought of as a measure of fluid friction and of the oil's film strength to support a load. It measures viscosity and pumpability of oil when the temperature is cold in the winter.
The second number of the multi-grade oil is oil Kinematic Viscosity:
Kinematic Viscosity is a measure of the fluids resistance to flow and shear under the forces of gravity, or how easily the oil flows to the different parts of the engine when the engine and oil are hot. This measurement influences such factors as fuel consumption, valve-train wear and bearing protection.
For example oil with 10W-40 has Absolute Viscosity (10W) maximum cold cranking 7 000 at temperature -25°C and maximum cold pumping of 60 000 at temperature -30°C
And Kynematic Viscosity HSRV at 150C = 2.9
as per SAE Viscosity Grades for Engine Oils (SAE J300) - December 1999
https://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/J300.html ____________________ Adrian Monk: Unless I'm wrong, which, you know, I'm not...
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| Northern Monkey |
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 Northern Monkey World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Nov 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 17:47 - 11 Oct 2014 Post subject: |
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| Val wrote: |
However when engine is hot the second number is most important and here 30 is worst then 40 - the bigger the second number the better viscosity and lubrication in summer and when engine is hot.
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I'm now bored of this conversation, however, this logic is flawed. The 'best' weight of oil is the weight which the manufacturer of the engine designed the engine to work at, which is, in this case, 30 weight. The 40 weight oil will have a greater viscosity, resulting in a reduced fluid flow. This reduced fluid flow reduces heat transfer, (google Reynolds number) and may result (unlikely in this case) in insufficient fluid being delivered. The increased viscosity will also increase the internal drag, reducing the power available.
If 40 were better than 30, then 80 must be even better than that, and I could just chuck heavy gear oil in by bike.
I would however, happily chuck 10w40 or 5w30 oil in my bike. What I wouldn't do, however, is pay £12 a litre for the stuff, when £3 a litre stuff works fine, it just doesn't have a little picture of a motorbike on the outside of the bottle. ____________________ Fisty: after polishing the tank with the glistenng beads of sweat from my full hot scrotum, I filled the headrace bearings with 10cc of my manmilk |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 70 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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