1998 ZZR1100 Starting and Idling Problem

[zzrsean]

Hi All,

I'm a newb to this site and need some suggestions please.

I have a 1998 ZZR1100 only 26000 miles that has a problem with starting and idling which seems at the moment to have stumped the shop I use. I have just today spent £240 notes on a professional carb clean and set up and some new iridium plugs and new air filter which hasnt solved the problem.

One of the problems is this, the engine starts first time on about half choke and runs at about 2000 rpm. The revs begin to rise and I keep backing of the choke tiny amounts just to stop them rising too high. After a minute or two of this it will just die???

Next problem, engine hot idle speed set at around 1100, rev the engine and the idle speed drops back to 5-600 then gradually climbs back to 1100.

Next problem, related to the last I suspect riding along, engine runs smooth pulls well but come to a junction slow to a stop pull in the clutch and the engine will die. This will happen unless I blip the throttle to keep it running.

Cant be a fuelling problem surely after the work I've just had done but what is it??

It's spoiling the bike and I've only had it 2 weeks!!!

Any help or suggestions would be gratefully received.

Thanks in anticipation,

ZZRSean

[Copycat73]

I`m thinkin air getting sucked in via the carb inlet rubbers.. or manifold inlet rubbers..

didn`t these have some clever heater system on the carbs to stop icing up .. pipe ran from the coolant system
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[lozzypop1]

Could it be the pilot air screws were set up by following the manual (which will say how many turns out) and not by use of a gas tester. Of course, the manual won't take into account the bike being 15 years old or carb wear.
If they are set up using a gas tester, a lot of the problems may disappear.
Many kawasakis idling with the choke on will run at between 3-4k rpm. I believe this is a normal thing for them.
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[Fizzer Thou]

Have the valve clearances been checked within the the bikes mileage?

They are easy to check and if the shop was any good then that would be easily done.Also,with the engine hot,plugs out and perform a compression test.If low then this would suggest that the valves are not seating,so losing compression.

With the engine cold the clearances can be checked and because of the cam follower arrangement,they can be pushed to one side so as to access the clearance adjusting shims.

The biggest effort is removing the bodywork to access the cam cover But at least you do not need to remove the cams so as to adjust the shims,like you do on some engines
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[1198]

[Supermoto_Fan]

After spending 2 weeks taking my bike apart and trying to sort a very similar problem with a few bonus symptoms, I simply as a last resort, unplugged each of the 2 carb heaters one at a time and it made a significant difference after the first, once both were disconnected it was like a different bike. Absolutely fine.

Hard to believe something so minor (and that many people say didn't need to be fitted to the bike from the factory), can cause such major problems

Still need to get a multi meter to confirm resistance readings but sure it's those.

Just check
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[mentalboy]