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Recutting valve seats with new valves?

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koolio
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Recutting valve seats with new valves? Reply with quote

Due to a botch job engineer (now I know more of a self proclaimed amateur really) I have to ditch my old 70s CB450 K3 head which is beyond salvation and start again (please don't ask I am livid with the guy).

Luckily I have a spare head which needs cleaning up and I've ordered some new valves. The seats look ok but 2 of them have some surface rust.

Question is, is it a requirement to get the seats recut? Or can I get away with phophoric acid treating them, cleaning them up and just lapping the new valves in.

The reason is not for being cheap but valve pre-tension on this particular engine there is no way to adjust the pre-load tension so the more the seat is cut the less pre-load there is.

(This is what the mechanic did without my ok, cut the seats so hard the pre-load tension is now useless).
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YBR Ric
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any reason not to get new valve seats fitted at his expense and then get the job done properly?
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davebike
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trick way used in the trade

take a piece emery paper or better cloth
make a cone shape around you finger Aiming fro a 90° angle and just clean off the seat face

Then grind in the new valve

Yes I done this lots of times
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, doncha just love those torsion bar valve springs.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 19:15 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

YBR Ric wrote:
Any reason not to get new valve seats fitted at his expense and then get the job done properly?


No I'd rather never see the guy again. His word against mine. Said "it would run", what a crap act. Checked the pre-load it is bad.

Got a quote for new valve seats etc. with a proper engineer was really prohibitively expensive for my needs and I have a spare head which was the cheaper route, if this was a Norton or Velocette or something I value I'd do it for sure.

Quote:
Yeah, doncha just love those torsion bar valve springs.


Crappest overcomplicated design I've ever come across, silly idea putting a high rpm DOHC race valve system on an unbalanced 180 twin (and naturally the vibration that comes with it prohibiting high rpm), totally pointless.

Honda ingenuity it is not.

That said the CB500T (which I actually prefer) the descendent of the 450 is oddly the only Honda I've ever really taken a liking to, it looks crap stock but mods really nicely.

Funny how everyone rates the CB450 but curse the CB500T, when the CB500T engine is basically identical and nicer imo and the CB500t frame + handling is a huge improvement over the CB450.

Quote:
take a piece emery paper or better cloth
make a cone shape around you finger Aiming fro a 90° angle and just clean off the seat face

Then grind in the new valve

Yes I done this lots of times


So wait you are just saying sand paper then lap? Very Happy Worth a shot I suppose, worst comes to worst I'll take it for the recut.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the past I have only ever had the valve seats in the cylinder head cut when the valve guides have been replaced.For just a bit of surface rust I would just lap the valves in with fine and not use course unless the seats are pitted.

Once there is an even circular band at 45 degrees,install the valves and the spark plugs and pour in some white spirit or similar.If the seats are good then there should be no liquid leaking by Thumbs Up
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koolio
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea I do acetone tests all the time, thanks for the advice.

Ok will see how I get on with this one. I would usually recut but torsion bar bs doesn't like this!
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 20 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Re-cutting seats sounds a bit drastic for "some rust."

Make sure the valve to guide clearance is ok, then grind them a little bit, with fine paste, until the rust is off the seat contact area and there's a grey line right round. Should only take seconds and practically zero dimensional change.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 21 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes but new valves should equal a valve seat recut imo, even if it is a light cut.

I suppose I am a little frustrated both with getting the head done asap and the pre-load annoyance otherwise I would not hesitate to get them cut lightly.

I will see when I get there I maybe able to get away with it.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 21 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

koolio wrote:
Yes but new valves should equal a valve seat recut imo, even if it is a light cut.

I suppose I am a little frustrated both with getting the head done asap and the pre-load annoyance otherwise I would not hesitate to get them cut lightly.

I will see when I get there I maybe able to get away with it.


Yes, I didn't read the bit about the new valves.

Can hard shims be put under the valve top collars, for the fork things to push up on? To get the tension back.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 21 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triton Thrasher wrote:
koolio wrote:
Yes but new valves should equal a valve seat recut imo, even if it is a light cut.

I suppose I am a little frustrated both with getting the head done asap and the pre-load annoyance otherwise I would not hesitate to get them cut lightly.

I will see when I get there I maybe able to get away with it.


Yes, I didn't read the bit about the new valves.

Can hard shims be put under the valve top collars, for the fork things to push up on? To get the tension back.


I might be ok with a light cut, unfortunately there is no way to adjust the preload without major complication except for having custom made valves with a lowered collet groove on the stem, this would increase the pre-load.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 21 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

can you not get new valve springs with a slightly longer length, or new hardened valve seats fitted.
it seems to me that you are trying to make it more of a deal than what it is.
ok don't want to spend anymore, and you use the spare head, unless there has been a burnt out valve, i doubt that you'd need more than a simple lapping of the valves
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 09:54 - 22 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmnz wrote:
can you not get new valve springs with a slightly longer length, or new hardened valve seats fitted.
it seems to me that you are trying to make it more of a deal than what it is.


There are no valve springs.The mechanism is almost Ducati Desmodronic actuation

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb450-super-sport-450-k6-1973-usa_model454/partslist/E++04.html#results
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 22 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

koolio wrote:
Crappest overcomplicated design I've ever come across, silly idea putting a high rpm DOHC race valve system on an unbalanced 180 twin (and naturally the vibration that comes with it prohibiting high rpm), totally pointless.


Back in the early 60s when this engine was being designed springs were not fully understood, and because of this cam profiles could not be designed properly so at the high RPM this engine was capable of there was a good chance of valve float. Torsion bars were better understood so that is the way they went, it works well for a while. And the CB500T was panned because the engine was milder and a bit less economical (like always), less 60s Honda and more 70s Honda funnily enough Thinking

While I would be looking for a good second hand head (probably from the States) or new seats have you maybe considered getting the rockers built up to suit instead? These are around £60 a go but I don't know if they'd try and charge more if you're looking for a custom profile.
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hmmmnz
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 22 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:


There are no valve springs.The mechanism is almost Ducati Desmodronic actuation

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb450-super-sport-450-k6-1973-usa_model454/partslist/E++04.html#results



well i never, just assumed it was like the cb350k i had,
i stand corrected.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 22 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snod Blatter wrote:
Back in the early 60s when this engine was being designed springs were not fully understood, and because of this cam profiles could not be designed properly so at the high RPM this engine was capable of there was a good chance of valve float. Torsion bars were better understood so that is the way they went, it works well for a while. And the CB500T was panned because the engine was milder and a bit less economical (like always), less 60s Honda and more 70s Honda funnily enough


I am not so sure,as Honda designed the RC166 GP racer with double overhead cams and four valves per cylinder using valve springs

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/Motorcycles/1966-Honda-RC166.jpg
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/crawlin8/Motorcycles/1966-Honda-RC166-engine-in-pieces.jpg

And from what I remember reading,Honda had a 50cc twin GP race bike that revved to 22,000 rpm - or was it the 125cc four that revved that high?
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Snod Blatter
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 22 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

They could get away with that because the valves are a lot smaller, so they have less tendency to float. This is a 450 with only 4 valves, they're big bits of metal to try and precisely control at 9500 RPM.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 04:59 - 23 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

And here we move into the world of blueprinting and its associated parts.

The big question here is just how much meat has he removed from the old head?
Many manuals come with a measurement that is for the length of the valve spring when in place. the way to achieve this perfect length was to either add washers that came in .01mm thickness (on GSXR oil boilers that is) or machine down the head.

In your case you could measure and have a spacer machined up to go under the valve on the head assuming that the valves aren't recessed to the point of not being much use.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 23 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The big question here is just how much meat has he removed from the old head?
Many manuals come with a measurement that is for the length of the valve spring when in place. the way to achieve this perfect length was to either add washers that came in .01mm thickness (on GSXR oil boilers that is) or machine down the head.


I don't know how much he removed exactly but visually I can see it is a lot, I can tell just by assembling the torsion bar it requires a lot less effort to tension the valves, and testing the ft lbs with a torque wrench and adapter the value was well below manual spec (I have the results written down somewhere).

Quote:
In your case you could measure and have a spacer machined up to go under the valve on the head assuming that the valves aren't recessed to the point of not being much use.


This is the best and most simple solution I have heard yet, I am surprised so many CB450 "experts" haven't been able to tell me this. Indeed putting a washer under the collets would increase the pre-load seems so obvious now.

The next problem however would be shortening the valve and hoping not to go through the stellite cap.

I'd rather actually sort out the untouched head I have, the seats are too deep now and I don't want to mess around with it would rather start again.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 16:15 - 23 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valves can be shortened and hardened caps fitted to them. Americans seem to be mad for "lash caps," as they call them.

Valves can be altered and new collet grooves cut.

But experts' time costs money.

The 450 was a good bike, compared to the 1960s competition, but maybe not a good bike for the home mechanic, 40+ years later.
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jjdugen
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 23 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 450 was NOT a good bike, don't ask how I know!!!!!
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 23 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjdugen wrote:
don't ask how I know!!!!!


How do you know?

All bikes were bad back then, anyway.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 23 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triton Thrasher wrote:
jjdugen wrote:
don't ask how I know!!!!!


How do you know?

All bikes were bad back then, anyway.


That's a pretty relative term bad compared to what? I'd have a 60s Norton Atlas any day over CB450. No frame flex and I just prefer an OHV twin.

+ sort out some of the production issues inherent at the time with the onset of collapsing British industry and you have a very nice and reliable bike.

Whereas the Jap stuff cannot be cured, top heavy engines, poor frame quality etc. etc. unless you intend to do a complete redesign in which case just don't by the thing in the first place.

That said CB500T, don't know why just like them.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 24 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

koolio wrote:
This is the best and most simple solution I have heard yet, I am surprised so many CB450 "experts" haven't been able to tell me this. Indeed putting a washer under the collets would increase the pre-load seems so obvious now.


It would actually go under the head end of the spring, then it doesn't add any weight to the valve train.
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koolio
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 24 Nov 2014    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
koolio wrote:
This is the best and most simple solution I have heard yet, I am surprised so many CB450 "experts" haven't been able to tell me this. Indeed putting a washer under the collets would increase the pre-load seems so obvious now.


It would actually go under the head end of the spring, then it doesn't add any weight to the valve train.


There is no spring it is a torsion bar setup.
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