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| farlow2014 |
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 farlow2014 Derestricted Danger
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| Copycat73 |
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 Copycat73 World Chat Champion

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| farlow2014 |
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 farlow2014 Derestricted Danger
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| andys675 |
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 andys675 World Chat Champion

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| Copycat73 |
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 Copycat73 World Chat Champion

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| farlow2014 |
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 farlow2014 Derestricted Danger
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| farlow2014 |
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 farlow2014 Derestricted Danger
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| Copycat73 |
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 Copycat73 World Chat Champion

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 Posted: 18:06 - 26 Dec 2014 Post subject: |
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The engine oil required is a good quality Sae10w-40 suitable for scooters using a wet clutch. The approximate capacity is 1000ml. The final drive should use 200ml of a Sae90w gear oil, again suitable for scooters.  ____________________ Whatever I post I have no citation and no intention of providing one..
caveat emptor
Last edited by Copycat73 on 18:11 - 26 Dec 2014; edited 3 times in total |
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| farlow2014 |
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 farlow2014 Derestricted Danger
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| barrkel |
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 barrkel World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 19:22 - 26 Dec 2014 Post subject: |
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Workshop manual for my SH300 specs 10w30 engine oil for final drive, the same as goes in the main sump, FWIW. ____________________ Bikes: S1000R, SH350; Exes: Vity 125, PS125, YBR125, ER6f, VFR800, Brutale 920, CB600F, SH300x4
Best road ever ridden: www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MhNxUEYtQ |
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| farlow2014 |
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 farlow2014 Derestricted Danger
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| barrkel |
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 barrkel World Chat Champion
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 Posted: 19:44 - 26 Dec 2014 Post subject: |
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| farlow2014 wrote: | | barrkel wrote: | Workshop manual for my SH300 specs 10w30 engine oil for final drive, the same as goes in the main sump, FWIW. |
any suggestion on brand of oil and do i need part or semi synthetic first scoot so not to clued up on this stuff |
I'm probably the wrong person to ask that one, as I put fully synthetic in and change at the service intervals, trusting Honda (right or wrong).
With a Chinese bike, more frequent oil changes are probably a better idea than higher quality oil, so I'd go with supermarket cheapest, but change every 1000 miles or so.
For transmission, I don't think it would make much difference whether you used engine oil or gear oil. There are only three rotating shafts in there, nothing else moving. You might lose a non-measurable bit of power with gear oil, as I believe it's more viscous. The final drive gears sit part submerged in an oil bath and fling the oil up as they go around. So I don't think you'd be relying on the stickiness of the oil much either.
New oil is better than any old oil, but probably something else would fail before lack of lubrication in the final drive specifically is a problem.
For example, if you're changing the belt or clutch, don't use an impact wrench on the clutch bolt - there's a risk of damaging the teeth in the final drive. That'll kill the final drive much quicker. Don't try and use the rear brake either. Use something that can grip the clutch bell. ____________________ Bikes: S1000R, SH350; Exes: Vity 125, PS125, YBR125, ER6f, VFR800, Brutale 920, CB600F, SH300x4
Best road ever ridden: www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MhNxUEYtQ |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 11 years, 3 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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