CG125 Slider Pin Boot change

[snowblind94]

I've been able to identify the part I need and have the Haynes manual for the bike.

The bit I'm most wondering about is: Is this the kind of repair it's best leaving for a garage to do?

I'm not exactly a stranger to brakes, but the last time I properly took one apart was from a rusty old Fiesta drum brake about two years ago when I did a Vehicle Mechanics Level 1 course.

So as my skills are about as rusty as that drum will be now, would you guys recommend leaving it to a garage to sort out? Seeing as the directions don't have a step-by-step picture guide I'm just a little wary of getting it wrong somehow and not having properly working brakes at this time of year.

Or am I best off having a crack at it on a weekend and seeing how it goes?
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Amateur biker, airsofter, gamer... Amateur everything really!

Currently riding a 2006 Honda CG125 ES-4

[mudcow007]

take a photo an post it on here

CG brakes are about as complicated as eating weetabix

[snowblind94]

It's in the garage at the moment so I'll have to do it tomorrow.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/thumbs/h/motog/17KGA401/IMGE/720_280/F__0900.png

It's the part numbered 10 in the diagram. They've both perished and I've been advised that they'll probably last about a month or two before they HAVE to be changed since the last time it went in the weekend before Christmas.

The seals are between £2-£5 depending on whether I read the page right for buying them, not sure whether it's £2 for one seal or £2 for a set of two.

I've just noticed recently that the front brake seems a little weak compared to when I first got it so I had the guy check it out while I had a couple of other things done and he pointed that out.

Asked a mechanic to look at it while I was at a bigger dealers buying some new trousers and he pointed out my front wheel wouldn't spin backwards freely and that these perished seals could mean that the pad wasn't being pulled back fully and was pinching the disc. It spins forwards freely though so he wasn't overly worried, but the brake lever was able to be pulled right through to the handlebar even after the initial bite and stopping of the wheel.

Seeing as I wasn't sure what the part was called we couldn't find a replacement seal at the time and instead started looking at a whole new caliper to buy in as a new replacement part and keep the old as a spare or send it to be refurbished.

Now that I've unearthed my manual I've found the name of the part and it's replacement piece so I was wondering how easy it'd be to do on my own as it mentioned clamping the hose and cleaning the whole caliper out of old brake fluid before re-attaching and topping up the system.

Reckon it's worth a shot even as a novice?
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Amateur biker, airsofter, gamer... Amateur everything really!

Currently riding a 2006 Honda CG125 ES-4

[Mark65]

Absolutely a doddle, I clean all my caliper and piston 3 times a year when i change pads. Basic socket set and metric allen keys and a g clamp to push piston back in after cleaning., 5 min to remove while drinking a brew. I replaced my brake line as well for a braided Wezmoto (HEL).
Mine were like yours, new brake line, pads and new fluid for mine, shit gets on the piston easily and causes it to stick so after cleaning it works great so you may only need the piston cleaning. Any rust or pitting then change it, If you were near me i do it for you.

Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650

[snowblind94]

Yeah I was thinking of going to a braided line at some point soon.

Picture below is of the part I mean.

So definitely doable in a day then?

At this point I'm going to have to wait until pay day to order any bits for it but if I can save money by doing it myself I'll feel better about it.
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Amateur biker, airsofter, gamer... Amateur everything really!

Currently riding a 2006 Honda CG125 ES-4

[Mark65]

Easily strip rebuild in a day, take the plastic covers off and there should be a allen headed bolt which will prolly be bloody tight if they are like a cg and maybe threadlocked, once cracked (being very careful off the fork mounts, you can take caliper off or if your doing a full rebuild use a lined vise (preferable). Use red grease to lube slider pins as normal grease can damage the rubber so ive heard.
The biggest improvement I made on my front brakes was to pump piston out some and clean piston spotless as it gets a line of crud that hardens then smear a touch of red grease before pushing it back in and then freeing up sticky sliders that were dry as a bone with more red grease, I just packed it in the cavity under the plastic caps and worked it a bit.
Mark
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650

[Taught2BCauti...]

Easily do-able in an hour, but make sure nothing comes close to applying the brakes whilst the caliper is off!

Might also be worth removing and checking the pad retaining pins (Part 13) and giving them a clean-up and a light smearing of copper grease.

Don't over-tighten them - they can be a nightmare to remove if seized!
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[Mark65]

[snowblind94]

Thanks for the encouragement, I feel like I can do it now.

Although I'm moving out at the end of the month now and don't know how much I'll have left over after first month's rent and deposit... I may have to beg, steal and borrow a little to get by, but the bike's going to get done somehow!
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Amateur biker, airsofter, gamer... Amateur everything really!

Currently riding a 2006 Honda CG125 ES-4

[Mark65]

PM your addy and i will send you a bit of red grease for your sliders.
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07 Yamaha YBR125, 07 Honda CG125 , 15 CBR300R (Chocolate Crank, Deaded), 16 CB500FA, 19 Honda Forza 300, 70 Suzuki SV650