Current leak advice / Reg/Rec

[gww]

Hi guys,

My bike (sv650s, k6) has started running out of charge after about 20mins. I've recently added heated grips (which I suspect may have something to do with this) but they're the first thing I disconnected and it keeps happening.

When I put a multimeter between -ve lead and battery terminal (ignition off) I'm getting a ~150mA leak (meant to be <.1mA). I've tracked one problem down to the Regulator/Rectifier, but that's just 100mA. The other 50mA dissappears when I remove the fuel fuse.

I've read that SVs have flakey RRs, so I guess that part needs replacing, unless I can salvage it? I've tested it a little, the diodes seem fine but there's only ~10kOhm resistance across red-to-black (really black/red to black/white) which seems pretty low, so maybe it's the transistor? Anyway, if I disconnect the RR the leak drops 150mA -> 50mA. Alternator resistances seem fine, but I haven't checked the voltages yet.

The other 50mA is pretty tricky. I traced it to the fuel fuse, and then if I disconnect the instrument cluster the leak stops too. Not sure whether the cluster's to blame (I hope not, it's not cheap) or whether I should be looking somewhere else, but once the wires get to the cluster I've no idea where the current goes next.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I really don't want to take the whole wire harness out, but may have to. Are there other sensible ways to check for leaks? I can upload a wiring diagram if people want, but the cluster's basically a black box.

Like I said, I reckon the grips may have triggered this, does anyone have any ideas how? Or is it just coincidence?

TIA,
gyppo

[UncleFester]

150ma causing a dead battery within 20 minutes?

That is ( according to Google ) at least an 11Ah battery - 150ma is going to last a fairly long time assuming the battery isn't farked / out of charge in the first place.

So it's either not charging when the bike is running or maybe you have a dead battery.

I'd get the battery checked at least and then maybe pick up a 2nd hand rectifier.
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2017 Z1000SX

[gww]

That's a good point. Even with the 60W lo beam on I should be getting a couple of hours (it's 10Ah I think). The 20 mins was between jumps, so quite possible it's related to how much the jump charged it instead of the battery itself. I've charged it fully off the mains now and it seems to be holding charge (>12.5V for >30 mins), but haven't run the bike off it since, I'll try that now and get the battery checked properly JIC.

The Reg/Rec I'm pretty sure is bust, there's no noise on the terminals at 5k revs, I'm just wondering whether there's a quick fix to it instead of shelling out for a replacement.

And I've no idea how to hunt down the leak. Tempted to just run it with the leak for now, keep disconnecting the battery overnight and do it the hard way this weekend.

[UncleFester]

I would fix the stuff you know is broken first and then look for the other issues after that.

Is it possible a duff rectifier / regulator is causing your mystery current draw? Or maybe you have a bad earth somewhere.

First thing i'd sort out is why the battery isn't charging on the bike and go from there.

https://www.svrider.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-28056.html i'd say that is worth a read.
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2017 Z1000SX

[WD Forte]

Agree with the above
Even if it does have a 100-150 mA current leak while parked up, a properly charging bike should put out enough power to compensate for it.
Fix charging sytem first, leak second.
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bikers smell of wee

[iooi]

Given you seem to know you way round a multimeter..

Just what V's do you get at the battery with the engine running?

Seems to be the one bit of info that will help most..

Fix rectifier / regulator 1st.....
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Just because my bike was A DIVVY, does not mean i am......

[gww]

Haha, second leak was just a power-on self-test, when the instrument cluster and ECM are both connected there's a little current flow for about 7 seconds, which then disappears. Guess I just needed to be more patient.

I got the battery checked properly, passed with flying colours. I'm getting 12+V off the battery, but nothing changes with revving. Looks like it's just a duff RR, replacement's in the post (£30, local dealer quoted me £200 )

Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how it goes when it arrives.

[Taught2BCauti...]

One of the nasty things about a failing Reg/Rec, is that it can quickly damage a good battery by stuffing more than 15v into it.

Another, is that current can run back into the alternator windings and melt soldered joints or burn-out coils.

If my Reg/Rec starts to fail, I might consider stripping the internals and replacing them with a DIY Mosfet circuit with better quality components - there are several good designs on Google - and I would use the original casing and connectors.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[gww]

Everything's good now, new reg puts out 14+V and doesn't leak (R2B resistance is ~infinite without voltage across alternator pins, as it should be). Alternator and battery both seem fine, looks like I got away pretty lightly.

[Taught2BCauti...]

It's epoxy 'potting compound' and can be drilled or chiselled out - but only if you don't mind sacrificing the internals, just to re-use the casing.
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Honda Varadero XL125(V8)
www.TheFutureIsHere.eu

[gww]

Cheers, just had a look and it seems fresh thermal potting compound isn't any cheaper than just buying a second-hand reg. If this one borks too I'll look into making a better quality one, but for now I'll leave it.

Thanks everyone!