Changing Brake Pads Questions CB600 '07

bikertomm · World Chat Champion Joined: 03 Jul 2010 Karma :

Hi all,

I need new pads all round on the hornet, decided to just bite the bullet and attempt to do it myself, I will be ordering the pads soon..

OEM front pads cost £24. EBC fronts cost £22.37

Any preference?

OEM rear is £33 and EBC is £17.

Will order them up soon on whatever I decide!

https://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o520/bikerrtomm/20140306_1545999_zps794d9b3e.jpg

So far what I've gathered is this:

Loosen the pin while caliper is still on the bike. Am I okay to re-use this? I think it's an allen key head but unsure.

Then loosen bolts 1 & 2

Wiggle it side to side so the pads get pushed in slightly and take it off.

1. At this point do I smother most of it in brake cleaner and toothbrush it clean?

2. Also do I need to pull the front brake lever in slightly so I have more of a surface on the pistons to clean?

3. The next step then, do I put the old pads in and then use the screwdriver/G-clamp method to push the pistons back evenly? Or do I need to take old pads out and just use a rag & screwdriver?

4. At any point do I need to take the reservoir cap off - I have no idea about brake fluid / pressures etc. I was under the impression I could just leave it be and change the pads - Is this the case?

So once I have the pistons cleaned and pushed back in, I put in my new pads with a bit of copper slip on the back of them.

Clean the pin up and do all the bolts back up. I don't have a torque wrench so will do them tight - Is this okay? Laughing

Thanks again!
Tom
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finchy95 · Scooby Slapper Joined: 26 Jan 2015 Karma :

No idea how to go about changing them but I've been warned off EBC pads they're supposedly about 4mm thinner. Dunno if it's true or not but it's something to bear in mind.
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Taught2BCauti... · World Chat Champion Joined: 12 Jan 2012 Karma :

I am a little reluctant to give advice on changing pads on here, because I might miss something or you could still get it wrong and end up being potatoed.

I would suggest you take a look at the Workshop Manual, and perhaps watch a couple of YouTube videos, Like This One and only go ahead if you are 100% sure of your capability to do the job safely.

I say this, because the item you have marked with a question mark is the ABS sensor, and you don't seem to be able to work out what might happen in the Master Cylinder and fluid reservoir when you retract the pistons, or what might happen to the piston if you squeeze the lever.

I would strongly recommend you trust the job to a qualified mechanic, and perhaps ask if you can watch, as tinkering with the front brakes on your own bike, is not the best place to start learning.
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Matt B · World Chat Champion Joined: 01 May 2012 Karma :

Front pads - I recommend looking at SBS.

Rear pads - cheapest because it doesn't matter.

The pistons should push back in by hand with gentle sustained pressure, do not use a camp!

Yes you need to watch the reservoir because the fluid level will rise/fall as the pistons go back in or you pump them out.

If you want to push the pistons out to clean them you can remove the pads then put the caliper back on the bike with no pads. Squeeze the front brake lever and the pistons will come out and stop against the disc. Stick a bit of cardboard between the disc and piston if you want. You will get even movement this way. remove caliper and clean. remember the fluid level will go down so watch it.
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Rogerborg · nimbA Joined: 26 Oct 2010 Karma :

barrkel · World Chat Champion Joined: 30 Jul 2012 Karma :

You do need a bit of mechanical common sense and some patience to think things through.

If your brake fluid was last changed when full pads were installed, you shouldn't have a hard time pushing the pistons back in. But if brake fluid was changed with brake pad wear, then the master cylinder may have too much fluid.

And if your brake fluid level is very low - it's normally quite low when your pads are worn out - it won't take much extra to get air in the top of the brake lines if you're trying to expose more piston to clean. So you may want to open up the MC just to be sure. And if you do take off the top of the MC, be aware that the MC may overflow when it comes time to push the pistons back in.

Two tools make changing the brake pads easier: something to push the pistons back into place (but not with too much force, you should be able to do it with finger force, though it might take a bit of time), and brake piston pliers.

Brake piston pliers grip the inside surface of the pistons and let you rotate it in its seat, so you can clean all around the outside. Otherwise it's very hard to get at the back of the piston.

I use these two:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK7112-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B000RO3QQY
I use this to save hurting my fingertips when things are a little bit stiff and I'm not interesting in stripping everything - not to force things.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-30838-Motorcycle-Piston/dp/B00487UO1G
(I wouldn't expect these to do anything with seized pistons, only for rotating good pistons.)
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