Changing gear when pushing on?

[FlightRisk]

I ride a CB500, now there's some giggles to be had but obviously it needs many revs to keep it up in the GiggleZone. I keep over-revving between upshifts from WOT or coming off the throttle too early and loosing momentum with the engine braking.

Is there some trick to smooth upshifting from wide open throttle?
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Honda CB500S

[Fisty]

Clutchless gear change.
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Quietly and consistently taking the piss.
TL1000R | Hayabusa | ZXR400 | TL1000S | Bandit 400 V
Fatter and faster than Fret

[SQL]

No clutch.

Put pressure on the gear lever upwards, when pinning it then shut the throttle for not even a second then it will change up seamlessly
/Thread

[FlightRisk]

Really!?
I'm scared to smash my gearbox.
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Honda CB500S

[FretGrinder]

[Blue_SV650S]

You need good throttle control to do clutchless shifting, from your original post, it sound like this is something you do not possess!

Just keep practising the clutched shifts - or buy a quickshifter ...
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The purpose of life is to fight maturity.

[SQL]

It will be fine.

[FlightRisk]

[Irn-Bru]

I only use the clutch for changing up at low speeds, otherwise it feels a lot more natural to not use it, especially at full belt. Has to be 0% throttle otherwise you risk damage, it's all about the timing but one of those things when you do it right you will never ever do it wrong. I suppose being on a thumper I get an awful lot of practise with it, I'm up and down the box all day long when I'm out in the countryside but I love it.

Got a short little video of me doing it on my DRZ a few weeks back:

https://instagram.com/p/y5NOAKkylz/?modal=true
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KTM 990 SMT & Suzuki DR-Z 400 SM

[pdg]

If you don't kick the buggery out of the shift lever then it won't damage anything not closing the throttle completely.

If there is any load on the gearbox then the lever won't move. You only need to back off enough to unload the 'box, then it will shift. You don't need 'good throttle control' in the least.

Slight pressure on lever, flick the throttle closed a bit then open it again, maintain pressure on the shift lever so it shifts fully - job done.

All the 'quick' shifters I've seen (including air or nitrous powered button shifters) achieve the same goal of unloading the gearbox by cutting the ignition while the lever is moving - that way you can keep on WOT and shift in the same clutchless manner.

Generally I would use the clutch going from 1st to 2nd (because neutral, but it's easily possible anyway), and clutchless above that.

If I can do it on a BMW gearbox without hurting it, you really should be able to do it on a CB.
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Any and all advice given should not be followed - if you have to ask it means you don't know so get a man in to do it for you.

[wristjob]

[Nick 50]

[Fladdem]

I clutch-less change up and down the box, the only time I touch the clutch is when I'm pulling away, wheelieing, and changing from 1->2 and 2->1.

I even tried to change without the clutch in my car a few times, but it's harder, so I just use the clutch now, I can't rev match at all, I'm practising for when I steal my dads 1958 Landy, no synchro-mesh in that box!
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Current:1991 Honda MT50 (Soon to be a H100/MTX/MT5 hybrid), 1976 Honda Cub C70, 2005 Honda Varadero 125, 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro , 2010 Road Legal Stomp YX140, 1994 Honda CRM 250 MK III, 1999 Cagiva Mito 125, 1992 Honda CB400 Super Four, Stomp T4 230, 1984 Honda H100s, 2009 Sym XS125K
Past:2003 Aprilia RS125, 1982 Kawasaki GPZ550(FREE BIKE!)
I'm having more fun than a well-oiled midget.

[dodsi]

Those micro seconds you save, cherish them.

[Irn-Bru]

[davebike]

Really pushing on on the CB500 hold wide open into red Zone at 11k750 the rev limiter cuts Left pot lift lever up it changes
DON"T do 1st to second as it will pull a Huge wheelie yes I done it you lose lots of speed time getting it under control

Te CB500 trives on revs just keep I spinning
I do clutch less up and down if in a hurry

at first just work into clutch less don't do it at full chat until you mastered it as lower pace
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[XBIKER]

Simple to do, just rev up as normal then kill the throttle and kick up simultaneously. You may find it easier to practice doing it with low revs at first
Had to do clutchless changes for a few days while I waited for a new clutch cable for my Suzuki GS850G. To get moving I held on tight and hit the electric start then to change gear as previously mentioned, kill the throttle and kick up.

Gets more interesting when slowing down with no clutch cable as you do not want any load on the engine (cue locked up rear wheel ) so have to let the revs drop right down before shifting down.

[orac]

I think the correct term for changing without the clutch is crash changing - I tried googling it but it just came up with loads of stuff about crashing and nothing about changing gear.

and yeh changing without the clutch is fine, down can be tricky to master and some bike don't like it at all but will accept it in a pinch.
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Current rides - 2016 Triumph Street Triple Rx, 1994 Suzuki Bandit 400 VM, TGB 204 Classic 125cc
"with nothing left to lose, there is everything to gain. It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog"

[FlightRisk]

Oh yeah, that does work. (Clutchless)
And it's FUN!

Now I really need to work on my braking + downshifting into turns before I do much more of that.
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Honda CB500S

[MCN.]

You can use the limiter as a quickshifter, this is my usual method of riding a 400 fast.

[stevo as b4]

Isn't the limiter on a sports 400cc about 2000rpm past peak power though?

I've been told that the 15500rpm red line and then change gear is a pretty slow way to ride an R6, seeing as maximum power is at 13k tops. I've never ridden one or tried it, but does going back down the torque curve before changing up save you more time than a quick change at peak power rpms?

I never as far as I can remember ever needed the 14500rpm red line line that my old ZX6R had, but for going really quickly in terms of making real progress in road riding, would keep it between say 7000-11000rpm most of the time.

Was I doing it wrong?
Also 12000rpm in 3rd was circa 90-95mph, and in the overtaking only speed range, as I didn't call 90-100mph making progess on the road and never sustained those speeds on an average ride out.

[MCN.]

[Acemastr]

I always do clutchless upshift, habit now.

Tried a downshift the other day on the R6 but it didn't sound terribly wonderful, plus I like blipping on downshift too much

It's just practice, I still struggle with clutching from 1st to 2nd at 14k rpm, it takes me a bit longer than other gears and the front goes light when I do it :p
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2017 KTM 350 XC-F - 2014 Yamaha R6 - 2005 Yamaha YZ125
2016 Toyota Tacoma Limited

[evoboy]

Never bother doing it down the box.

Normally use the clutch as a rear brake to slow the wheel down when entering a corner.

Drop it down a couple of gears and feed the clutch out, letting the revs come back up but without engaging full drive to the rear wheel. Itll just lock up else.

Why you would want to even change down a gear without the clutch is beyond me.
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Suzuki GT250 x7------- Fazer 600------CB250RS------Aprilia Rally 70----- Bandit 600

APT Motorcycles

[monkeybiker]