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New Retro racer build.

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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: New Retro racer build. Reply with quote

Building another bike for my Missus,

It's an Sun Frame from I reckon the late seventies early eighties, she bought it for a price that I imagine most people would assume we had been robbed however if I sold the Stem & Bars, Brakes and gear shifter She'd get her money back and then frame is free!

Cosmetically it is a bit of a state.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/16906_10153132999378476_5406032389021906185_n.jpg?oh=74824067f3509f3e1c98b83960cbf89d&oe=55822BC8&__gda__=1434549587_60d25ac3b62e932c6fd7724edf0c792d

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/13120_10153132999453476_6155602626862178798_n.jpg?oh=35a2bfa8f60584616207c309d59f36c0&oe=557BD900&__gda__=1434035905_6c16fd6776057b02931c7854cc290650

and probably the main reason it was bought,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10343679_10153132999283476_4393189261629453754_n.jpg?oh=4ab20f79e355bd49dd11df7b14017f3c&oe=557BAFFE&__gda__=1437712616_79b755f252cda9f570429cded1241306

The badge looks the bollocks Laughing

The frame looks a state but I have checked it over it is all cosmetic nothing serious.

The only things we are using from the old bike are...
Frame
Seat post
Stem (comfort dependent)
Saddle (Possibly)

The rest is going to be cleaned up and sold or put in a skip.

The plan is to build it up so that it looks as good as new, we are going to powder coat the frame and put modern running gear on it. It will have a flat bar on with a MTB style trigger shifter (1x9/10), it'll have long drop dual pivot calipers.

The first step was to strip it to component pieces. I got part way there. However the mudguards are stuck fast. I have let them soak in plusgas and will have another go at them.

After stripping the first step is to choose wheels. Standard wheels are 27" as you would expect. When I rebuilt my Sun Racer I bought budget 27" wheels, they were great, for £60 I was amazed at the quality. The front needed truing but to be fair I hit a curb at ~15mph (I was tired and had the sun in my eyes.) The rear hasn't needed truing and it has done ~500 miles. However gear/tire choice is poor for 27" wheels. The plan is some budget 700c wheels.

Modern 700c wheels have a spacing of 100mm front 130mm Rear. This bike accepts a spacing of 95/120 so it will need to be expanded. A quick check with Sheldon says to 'Coldset the Frame' which to be looks like a shit way of doing it. The basic premise is use a lump of 2x4 to prise open the stays. You will then need to Align the dropouts using a special tool.

My idea is to use a piece of threaded bar, put a washer and nut on each side of each drop out and slowly expand the frame/fork to the correct size. My theory is this'll be more gentle than cold setting AND will keep the dropouts in line. What do you think?

More questions.

Are there any 9/10 speed rear mechs to fit this type of bike it has the old Bracket fit Mech I can't seem to find any.

The main part I am uncertain about is the bottom bracket/crank with regards to lining everything up and getting the right size, any advice? I was planing on going to my LBS with the frame and seeing what they have then going from there.

My other question is about the gearing/rear mech. Although it is a road bike I was thinking going for an MTB rear cassette for a wider spread of gearing seeing as it is all at the rear. Could a 105 style road Derailleur hand that or would a MTB would be better?

Any recommendation for good value wheels? Looking at these at the moment. https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-wh-r501--28700-c-road-wheel-set/aid:100100

Budget in total is about £300, but need to be under not over. Things like cables and tubes I have loads of in the garage so not counting

Wheels & Tyres £100
Brakes & Levers £30 (eyeing up tektro long drops)
Bars £10
Headset £15 (have seen a kit that will upgrade it to cartridge bearings
Cassette £15
Chain £15
Pedals £5
Shifter £10
Rear Mech £30
Crank&BB £??
Paint £60?

Current colour scheme is yellow frame and black everything else. Also looking at putting some of these on it, https://www.bicyclestickers.co.uk/sticker-sets/sun.html, maybe ask them to do the letters in black and have it say 'Strada' instead of 'Snipe.'

Any comments/advice are appreciated, also if you are selling anything that I might want let me know. Bare in mind I want the bike to look new when done.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question, Can I use a single speed crank? or are the teeth not the right pitch?
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 16:40 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you have made a bad choice of frame, it would appear it's a cheap gas pipe type. Why don't you wait and get something in 531?

Your method of resetting the frame will put all the stress on the drop outs quite possibly causing them to crack. Better to bend the stays as everyone else does.
The other way you could do it is to re-space the hub axles and dish the wheels.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
I think you have made a bad choice of frame, it would appear it's a cheap gas pipe type. Why don't you wait and get something in 531?

Your method of resetting the frame will put all the stress on the drop outs quite possibly causing them to crack. Better to bend the stays as everyone else does.
The other way you could do it is to re-space the hub axles and dish the wheels.



531 frames are expensive. This one was cheap and nearby. It is light-weight so although not reynolds tubing it isn't a crap one. I have a Sun bike it's been great.

I guess I'll use a lump of wood then, now to buy the dropout tool or get the LBS to align them...
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just youtubed cold setting and the first video that came up does it a simpler version of 'my' method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwxEPRk3LFg

Laughing
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 16 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Build your own wheels. Follow the guide on sheldon browns website.

It's much easier than you'd think and you'll get decent quality wheels for not a lot of money.

You can buy rear mech adapters of all sorts.

Only way with a BB is to select your cranks and fit them with a BB of some description. Find out how far out you are then order one the correct size. Hopefully you have an old sealed BB sitting about somewhere? I keep one for this express purpose. See the eighth post down on my single speed MTB build-blogg

You can use a single speed crank but you'd need to use a 3/32" chainring on it if you want a rear mech and multi-speed chain. The chain pitch is the same size on single speed chainrings but they tend to use 1/8" chain with wider teeth. You can run 1/8" on a 3/32" chainring but not the other way round.

Lots of 3/32" chainrings out there anyway. Downhill mountain bikes will tend to use 1x10 or even 1x11 garing these days.

As sickpup says, you can also space and re-dish the rear wheel. Dead easy to do. the rear on my single speed is heavily dished off to one side and copes with me stomping on it without a problem.

Have you considered hub gears? Like a shimano nexus or similar? You'd need to stretch those dropouts a little more but they are super girlfriend/abuse/lack of mechanical sympathy friendly. You have horizontal dropouts. Then you can use a 1/8" chainring and single speed chain. Buy the hub, build your own wheel onto it. You can even have a hub brake and super-funky rims.

I just put an SLX 10 speed MTB casette on the wifes new MTB. It goes from 11 to 36 teeth. The mech is pretty special to cope with that, you have a switch to back off the spring if you want to take the wheel out. It needs a strong spring to prevent it bouncing off the smaller rings.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 01:32 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Build your own wheels. Follow the guide on sheldon browns website.

It's much easier than you'd think and you'll get decent quality wheels for not a lot of money.

You can buy rear mech adapters of all sorts.

Only way with a BB is to select your cranks and fit them with a BB of some description. Find out how far out you are then order one the correct size. Hopefully you have an old sealed BB sitting about somewhere? I keep one for this express purpose. See the eighth post down on my single speed MTB build-blogg

You can use a single speed crank but you'd need to use a 3/32" chainring on it if you want a rear mech and multi-speed chain. The chain pitch is the same size on single speed chainrings but they tend to use 1/8" chain with wider teeth. You can run 1/8" on a 3/32" chainring but not the other way round.

Lots of 3/32" chainrings out there anyway. Downhill mountain bikes will tend to use 1x10 or even 1x11 garing these days.

As sickpup says, you can also space and re-dish the rear wheel. Dead easy to do. the rear on my single speed is heavily dished off to one side and copes with me stomping on it without a problem.

Have you considered hub gears? Like a shimano nexus or similar? You'd need to stretch those dropouts a little more but they are super girlfriend/abuse/lack of mechanical sympathy friendly. You have horizontal dropouts. Then you can use a 1/8" chainring and single speed chain. Buy the hub, build your own wheel onto it. You can even have a hub brake and super-funky rims.

I just put an SLX 10 speed MTB casette on the wifes new MTB. It goes from 11 to 36 teeth. The mech is pretty special to cope with that, you have a switch to back off the spring if you want to take the wheel out. It needs a strong spring to prevent it bouncing off the smaller rings.


8 speed hub would be a good idea, she currently has a 3 speed hub on her Town Bike however looking at it it would blow the budget, as an aside, according to Sheldon you should only go up 2 sizes 120-130 is all he recommends. As for building wheels I would love to however I have tried twice to true wheels both times failed miserably. One day I'll try.

I've been going some reading and apparently 1x10 set-ups can cause the chain to jump off the front Chainring. I don't know if this mainly on DH bikes and a smooth running road bike should be OK? I've read a 'Narrow/wide' Chainring can help.

Another question when the fudge are Bash Rings so expensive?
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd imagine you'd get a 2x8 or 2x9 for less than a 1x10 or 1x11.

Also there are loads of double chainsets out there, fewer singles, it's more of a niche market.

You get a lot of decent second hand stuff out there too if you shop around for it. Have a look on ebay for someone selling an appropriate groupset.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 12:06 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I'd imagine you'd get a 2x8 or 2x9 for less than a 1x10 or 1x11.

Also there are loads of double chainsets out there, fewer singles, it's more of a niche market.

You get a lot of decent second hand stuff out there too if you shop around for it. Have a look on ebay for someone selling an appropriate groupset.


Thats what I've found too. 1x10 is preferable for a couple of reasons, 1 it'll look sleeker 2 it's easier for her. She struggled with a 3x8 set up on her old mountain bike. She isn't an experienced cyclist, but is getting better. She is also a bit of a worrier and gets annoyed when she isn't good at something instantly. 1x10 would be simpler to use.

Good thing is we are in no rush, plenty of time to shop around, I have my eye on a crank and narrow wide cog on ebay at the moment.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 14:18 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty much the same reason I went for a 2x10 for the wifes MTB. Considered a 1x11 but it's crazy money just now.

Assuming you're going for a conventional square taper crankset (hollowtech would look pretty odd on that bike I reckon).If you can find a 2-ring crank, you can just fit the larger chainring and it doesn't look out of place. Check you can get an appropriate chainring for it before you buy. This also means you can get a sensible bottom bracket length. I used the inner ring only on my MTB and landed up with a 131mm BB to get the chainline.

I'd imagine you're probably going to land up with your chainring on the upper part of any spider you get anyway, which would make fitting a bash-ring trickier. In all honesty, with a single speed chainring with a chain on it, you're going to have to work pretty hard to damage it.

I've found the older sugino alloy road cranks polish up beautifully, are a pleasing shape and are very lightweight into the bargain. I have a spare pair at home but you can't have them. :p
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 15:33 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Pretty much the same reason I went for a 2x10 for the wifes MTB. Considered a 1x11 but it's crazy money just now.

Assuming you're going for a conventional square taper crankset (hollowtech would look pretty odd on that bike I reckon).If you can find a 2-ring crank, you can just fit the larger chainring and it doesn't look out of place. Check you can get an appropriate chainring for it before you buy. This also means you can get a sensible bottom bracket length. I used the inner ring only on my MTB and landed up with a 131mm BB to get the chainline.

I'd imagine you're probably going to land up with your chainring on the upper part of any spider you get anyway, which would make fitting a bash-ring trickier. In all honesty, with a single speed chainring with a chain on it, you're going to have to work pretty hard to damage it.

I've found the older sugino alloy road cranks polish up beautifully, are a pleasing shape and are very lightweight into the bargain. I have a spare pair at home but you can't have them. :p


Square taper is the plan but it's what I can get. I'm looking at road cranks as I've read they are better for the chainline. The Bash guard was to recommended to help stop the chain coming off. That is what I have read anyway.

I'm watching a brand new Raceface narrow/wide chain ring on ebay. They are ~£40 new if I can get it cheap I'll get a crank to match. I know it is the wrong way round! I'm also watching an FSA Crank with 165mm arms I think would be good for her, again also cheap. It's polished but It should be black to go with the rest equipment. Good job I'm paying a visit to the powder coaters, The one I used in the past will chuck in Black stuff for next to nothing.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 15:44 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those sturmey archer single speed cranks with the chainguard are 3/32" and come in as low as £25 complete with chainring and guard.

Not the lightest but robust and highly functional.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sturmey-Archer-Sturmey-Archer-44T-170mm-Chainset-Silver-/141588108531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f74f14f3
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Those sturmey archer single speed cranks with the chainguard are 3/32" and come in as low as £25 complete with chainring and guard.

Not the lightest but robust and highly functional.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sturmey-Archer-Sturmey-Archer-44T-170mm-Chainset-Silver-/141588108531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f74f14f3


That'll work with 10 speed? I thought all single/hub stuff was 1/8"?
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 16:47 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those particular ones are 3/32". I have one on my road bike.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 17:15 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Those particular ones are 3/32". I have one on my road bike.


Looks like I've found my crank short of getting the narrow/wide for next to nothing!

Cheers Thumbs Up
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 17 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a picture to show you what the rear mech has to cope with on that high-range (11t-36t) 10-speed cassette. Highest and lowest gears shown.

That said, I don't suppose there's a good reason why you couldn't use an MTB mech.
https://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/stinkwheel/CIMG2565_zpsog0c93uy.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 18 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the road mechs I have been looking at don't cover up to 34t which is what the rear cassette will likely be, so it will have to be an MTB one. Thumbs Up
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 19 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris-red wrote:
All the road mechs I have been looking at don't cover up to 34t which is what the rear cassette will likely be, so it will have to be an MTB one. Thumbs Up


Most will handle a 34T easily, what they won't do is keep the chain taught on the smallest sprocket, thats what long cages mechs are for.

It has occured to me that as the rear dropouts don't have a mech hanger and you need to respace why don't you cold set the frame to whatever you want and then replace the rear dropouts with modern ones at the required angle? The limiting factor in cold setting the rear trangle is afterall the rear dropouts angle so just replace them.
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 01:24 - 19 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slight updates,

I fully stripped and spread the frame, and put my road wheels on. the alignment by eye seems good.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/8EE2E92D-ED1F-41C6-9B76-4E136AC5FCE7_zpsssi50ntf.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/DAD31D9E-0B76-4B5E-8C7C-261FDDC8E3BB_zpsttzzhy4q.jpg

All the left over parts.

Also bought some wheels

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/ieYAAOSwPYZVAJjJ/$_57.JPG

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/65A1AD4F-81A2-4105-A29A-9B1044BE0A8A_zpsuxkx4qqq.jpg

Above is the bottom bracket, any idea of what tool I need to remove it? I'm trying to work out the size but is seems quite odd.

Firstly the Shell is 70mm, the bike is British and the only BB's that are 70 are Italian I don't think it can be one of those. Would a 68 be OK? It is also 130mm taper to taper, which seems huge!
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 10:52 - 19 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A big spanner, or cut a slot in an old tube spanner. You might have to make a tool by filing a slot in a thicker walled piece of steel/alloy tube and bolting it in place if it's being particularly recalcitrant.

Being as how you're repainting it and it's a steel frame, heat could also be your friend.

The question is, which way are you going to unscrew it? If it's british threaded, it'll unscrew clockwise, if it's Italian threaded, it'll unscrew anticlockwise.

Could be Italian threaded, I had a late 60's Coventry Eagle that was Italian threaded. Worth being aware because Italian thread BBs are both threaded in the same direction (and as such, tend to unscrew themselves at the chainring side).

Why would you do this? I suppose there's a saving on machining, only one thread to cut all the way through.

That said, it could just be the shell size is a bit off. Wouldn't matter with the BB design they've fitted there, it can screw all the way into the shell I wouldn't expect it to make an enormous difference with a sealed BB. The bearing will still be supported at both ends and it can't move side-to-side. Just be aware that the right side could stick out by 1mm (70-68=2; 2/2=1) more than the left, remember this for calculating your chain line.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



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PostPosted: 11:15 - 19 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The raised section I would put a spanner on is ~1mm tall, I don't think I'd be able to get a grip on it. I'll have a go with the big shifter but I don;t want to trash it. I took the day off work today, I'm going to have a go at shot blasting it with my Lialdi blaster.
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:56 - 19 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had a quick google. Found this:
https://bicycletutor.com/images/bike/bottom-bracket-400x280.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 19 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


I got one side out with my shifter, the other side looked cross threaded, I got it to the LBS and the guy got it off with his too, it's all fine though!

I sorted the frame alignment the rear rear brake mount was was shifted over while the drop-outs were in line.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/8FFCC791-9B8D-4B2B-BED5-7E36988CCC63_zpsocujrnuu.jpg

This photo is off line not the frame Laughing
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:40 - 23 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/8F757CD0-3EDE-42D1-A744-A3185CD2C3DB_zpsgo2rzwzd.jpg


Got the wheels test fitted all looks good.

Waiting to hear back from a mate who might have some 10 speed kit, I'm hoping to get for cheap.

Keeping an eye on a few ebay bargains, once I know what is happening with the gears I'll get the crank ordered and sort the bottom bracket.
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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chris-red
Have you considered a TDM?



Joined: 21 Sep 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:07 - 27 Mar 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not much done unfortunately, waiting to buy parts, which depend on what I'm getting off my mate tomorrow.

I got a dropout alignment tool today.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/48D22778-6D6E-400C-BA8B-58EBF93061A0_zpshm0yugi8.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/chris-red/08632BED-1234-47B6-AB92-FA69E3164816_zpscppsxugu.jpg

Did the job Thumbs Up

I got it from Rose Bikes in Germany less than half the cost of any of them from the UK. Thumbs Up
____________________
Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando.
WANTED:- Fujinon (Fuji) M42 (Screw on) lenses, let me know if you have anything.
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View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
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