Moar Scooty fun

[WD Forte]

Member when I came out as a right gheylord
when I got given a Vision 110?
https://imgur.com/lp6TJHd.jpg

I fixed it up MOT'd it and flipped it for the 250 majesty and cash my way
Now I've inherited a 2021 SH125 Mode and it aint not nicked nor nuffin.
It had failed its first MOT on brakes, rear shock not damping
and brake lights and the guy didnt want to throw any more money at a shop to fix it and just wanted shot of it.

Its done 70 thou and I was initially a bit leery but the engine is sweet!.
Starts first touch of the button with no smoke, knocks or rattles at all
and I know its had lots of oil changes in its time which probably helped preserve it
and I've done quite a lot of work on it too so know the thing.

It has some panel damaged from being dropped so today I stripped them all off to give it
a jolly good degrime before getting stuck in.
I've already done the front end, that needed new wheel bearings and seals plus
new disc and pads.
I'll do the MOT work and service it then have a go at smartening it up.

https://imgur.com/dNgLeFM.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

I gave the guy a captive nut for his battery some time ago cos he lost his.

When I went to remove the battery I found he'd fitted the captive nut and screw
just fine.
Nut in yep
screw in yep
But
lifting the red cover I saw he hadn't put the screw through the terminal on the positive lead,
just fitted the nut and screw, tightened the screw and slipped the jaws over the top.
It actually started and ran like this.
https://imgur.com/Gwivw3A.jpg

The wheel bearings were bone dry and rusty both sides
I couldn't find a drop of grease anywhere, no wonder they failed.
A pair of Koyo bearings and double lip seals cost £12 from Simply bearings
while Fowlers would have charged me £49
fuqdat
https://imgur.com/TdpliJm.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

Today I are mostly bin playin with my new plastic welder thingy

It heats up little wavy staples and they melt into the plastic.
The staples are stainless and there was a pair of cutters supplied
but they're crap and when they do work, you have a tiny sharp pin fly off
into fuck knows where to get stuck into stuff, maybe yer eye !

Then I had a cunning plan and dug out the old Dremel and the cut off tool works brilliantly without sending the remnants flying off.
While using it, I found the trick was to offer up the staple to the workpiece then pull the trigger and watch as the staple sinks just below the surface of the plastic
then release the trigger and hold it for a few seconds to cool.
I only put one all the way through so not bad for me.

The staples hold really well and I can flex the panel without anything coming loose or breaking off.
I didn't get all the joins aligned perfectly, this was mostly due to my impatience and partly cos its a compound curve shape and there was some distortion too.
I found the small part inside when I stripped it down and will do the lower edge piece later, I just wanted to play with it today and still have the MOT and service jobs to finish first.

https://imgur.com/bBy9ac0.jpg

https://imgur.com/TB7cm75.jpg

https://imgur.com/SrKVZKu.jpg

https://imgur.com/k7eITTp.jpg

https://imgur.com/vvMmjDp.jpg

https://imgur.com/et8oKxV.jpg

https://imgur.com/O5y7Spj.jpg

https://imgur.com/5RVMLCM.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

If you need epoxy to fill in holes I'd recommend West Systems G-flex. It's rated for ABS. Apparently you should flash the bonding surfaces with a blue flame just prior to applying the adhesive, some weird mollecular effect, I dunno, they know their stuff.

If there are bits which are holding together once welded but are still flimsy/crumbly, you get bias weave fibreglass cloth you can wet out on the reverse of the panel. Strong as hell, conforms to weird shapes and quite flexible with it. For more strength, add more layers at 90 degrees while still wet and add more epoxy. Put the cloth onto the surface then scrape epoxy over it. Wetting it first just results in a mess.

I wonder if those use the same weird but clever negative earth DC/positive earth AC electrics they use on the wave/innova. Positive and negative earth in the same dual filament taillight bulb. LEDs need not apply.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WD Forte]

It's a straight forward 12Vdc neg earth setup.
I dont have a Honda service manual but do have the Forza one and it follows that system pretty much.
The 3 stator wires go to a big assed controller box as it has an ACG type stator which doubles as a starter.

This is sweet when its working, it starts quickly and quietly but
would guess it would probably be an expensive arseache to fix
if it goes wrong as the charging, starting, idling stop, immobiliser and ECU are all combined in the one box.
I wouldn't fancy digging out the guts of that thing

The panels are either PP or ABS so thermoplastics and
I'll try and fix the worst but don't have much desire to go further than
getting it all MOT-able and functionally good.
making it look pretty isnt really my thing.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

You could always stretch and slam it.

https://i.pinimg.com/736x/24/9b/df/249bdf14c8e8efb4521328079b5b3b11.jpg
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.