made an oopsie

[andyscooter]

after getting the caliper sorted I went to bleed the brakes

the screw in the brake fluid reservoir was rounded off by the last person who owned the bike to the point I thought

so I drilled the head off to get it out

only thing is the thread is lower then the reservoir

so any ideas how to get it out

only plan I have is drill and rethread the hole

or is it new reservoir time
____________________
gilera runner vxr200 (chavped)
if its spelt wrong its my fat fingers and daft auto correct on my tablet

[c_dug]

I've learned the hard way that drilling the heads off of bolts really should be the last option for exactly this reason.

Is the reservoir cap off?

Without any pressure on the threads it should be fairly simple to unwind whats left. Can you get a small screwdriver or something to bite on whats left?

A picture really would help.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[c_dug]

Fwiw in very similar circumstances I ended up replacing the whole reservoir.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Rogerborg]

[Pete.]

You'll be lucky to get that out. Some very careful welding might do it.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[bikenut]

can you post a pic??

screw head rounded off cos the screw was seized/corroded in??

if the screw is flush with the surface, and the cylinder is removed, perhaps some quick mig weld to the remains to weld a blob onto the screw...allow to cool and repeat...then weld a bolt to the blobs.......this method does work but a pic would confirm viability........
____________________
nuts about bikes

[bladeblaster]

What you are saying doesn't make a lot of sense TBH. All you need is a drill bit very slightly larger than the diameter of the screw thread. Once you break through the narrowest part of the countersunk screw head, it will come away. You can then lift off the reservoir lid and unscrew the threaded portion remaining.

[c_dug]

In theory the above is correct, but I can think of a couple of ways off hand that it may have happened.

Firstly, it was initially drilled with too small a drill bit, when a larger drill was used to remove the head it removed what was left of the protruding shaft too, leaving a flush or sunk threaded part left in the hole.

Secondly, the bolt was shorter than the depth of the threaded hole in the reservoir, again with a small drill I reckon it possible to break the head off and the spinning of the drill to screw the remaining thread in further (on the same principle that would unscrew the thread using left hand drill bits.).
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[andyscooter]

Will photo in morning

Someone said I may be able to do it with chemical metal

I'm not convinced
____________________
gilera runner vxr200 (chavped)
if its spelt wrong its my fat fingers and daft auto correct on my tablet

[c_dug]

I've heard of using chemical metal on a rounded bolt by squashing a small ball into the head of the screw, then pressing the driver into the screw too so that the chemical metal fills the space, then allowing it to set.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Pete.]

Stuck reservoir cap bolts are usually corroded solid into the thread.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[stirlinggaz]

Hi,
seen plenty m/c screw heads rounded off, but never heard of this happening before, curious to see pics.
i think they get rounded off because they are usually a JIS type fitment, not a phillips, which most folk presume & because the screw heads are so soft, they start chewing up the 1st time a phillips screwdriver comes near it.
thats my worth anyway (will now likely get proven wrong now though)

cheers,
GAZ

[trevor saxe-coburg-gotha]

Yeah damn JIS shit pisses me off on these master cylinders. Anyway, similar crap happened to me as the op. Solution? Dremel a slot into the chewed jis screw head and get a flat screwdriver on it. Whole process took about 0.000000001 nanu seconds.

edit - lest anyone run away with the very misguided notion that t'was I who did the above fettling, uhm no. Biker mate two villages away came to the rescue.
____________________
"Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."

Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125

[Rogerborg]

(OT while we wait for pics)

I now reach for a JIS bit and an impact screwdriver as a first resort when opening an unknown M/C. No sense in waiting until it's chewed.
____________________
Biking is 1/20th as dangerous as horse riding.
GONE: HN125-8, LF-250B, GPz 305, GPZ 500S, Burgman 400 // RIDING: F650GS (800 twin), Royal Enfield Bullet Electra 500 AVL, Ninja 250R because racebike

[andyscooter]

right heres pics

https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb129/andyscooters/DSC_0075_zpsm9xznlus.jpg


https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb129/andyscooters/DSC_0079_zpsfb9tl3sb.jpg

https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb129/andyscooters/DSC_0078_zpsr0tvgfvq.jpg

https://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb129/andyscooters/DSC_0076_zpsybsq3etw.jpg

as you can see head of screw is off it was too fucked to start with

no left with this shit
____________________
gilera runner vxr200 (chavped)
if its spelt wrong its my fat fingers and daft auto correct on my tablet

[skatefreak]

Easy out.
Drill a small hole through the remaining bolt thats left in the thread.
Get a small high quality easy out and whizz it out.

I claim my 5 ponds!

[bikenut]

the remains look quite deep into the hole there dude...........

how deep do the holes go??

remove cyl from bike and strip down.

clean up the hole as best as possible ( wire wheel ) ......

countersink the problem hole as much as you dare but remember the rubber diaphragm and cover have to fit back on the cyl and seal.......

mig weld a blob onto the remains of the screw ( a 2 second burn set to a medium setting, mig welder dependent ) ..........it will have to be clean and bright for a good penetration and weld....weld good enough to allow the screw to be unscrewed.........

after cooling, weld an other blob to the first blob......repeat till blob big enough to grip, or to weld a bolt to.......or a screw to....of slightly larger diameter and tapered for welding to the blob.........the thermal shock will aid in the sheared screws removal, as its seized/corroded in usually..........then try and unscrew............

some burning of the cyl will take place so be very carefull..........also do not allow to "overheat"..........

I have successfully removed similar problems even on a plastic cyl lid......

else, accurate pillar drill work or new cyl.....

in future, use proper screwdriver and lots of "pressure" so it don't ride out.....also a tap or 2 on the screw first to aid release may help.

some heat during this process may also help ( hot air gun )

if the screw head has to be drilled off, use a smaller drill than the screw first, then go up a size till the screw head head ( just the head ) comes off and leaves some screw proud to grip or weld to etc.....

a mig weld blob and bolt would be my first method of a chewed screw removal, it usually works ok.
____________________
nuts about bikes

[andyscooter]

[andyscooter]

[c_dug]

An Easy-out could potentially work, but you'll need a tiny one, and if it snaps you'll as good as write off the part.

That said if you don't get the stud out it's as good as written off anyway.
____________________
I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[bikenut]

looks as if your buggered then......new cyl unless you can find someone local to you who would be prepared to " have a go" at doing it......
____________________
nuts about bikes

[Ariel Badger]

What bike is it for?
____________________
Bikers make great organ donors, get 115 on your licence today.

[andyscooter]

Suzuki burgman 400
____________________
gilera runner vxr200 (chavped)
if its spelt wrong its my fat fingers and daft auto correct on my tablet

[skatefreak]

I don't see why it wouldn't work without the head?
You would need an easy out that is smaller than the threaded hole but you can still drill a hole through the remaining screw material all be it a small hole and easy out what's left of the bolt.
Going to be a small easy out and a small hole so it will be tricky but not many options left really...
Can't say I'm to keen on the welding approach, I know I would end up just welding the bleeding thing to the handlebar or something hah..

-Jvr

[........................]

Do you have a local fasteners/hardware store where you might be able to buy a single left handed drill but? At this point you don't have much to lose.

I bought a set of these

https://www.toolbits.org.uk/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=9287491

a few years back and they have been worth their weight in gold. I've never had a screw/bolt need drilling out completely, at some point as I go up the diameters of bits the offending article has always undone when drilling.

A bit pricey but when I think of time and hassle saved they are worth it.