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emergency brake wheel lock up..

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vanderbale
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 07:32 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: emergency brake wheel lock up.. Reply with quote

Can someone reveal the method to stop the brakes locking during an emergency stop? I can't afford to fail the mod1 again.
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont just stamp on brakes ?
and just practice.
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lihp
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PostPosted: 08:06 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't press the brake pedal so hard.
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Ste
Not Work Safe



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PostPosted: 08:08 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Practise. Wink
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 08:13 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume that you mean you're locking the rear. If you're locking the front under ideal controlled conditions on a grippy surface then there's a deeper problem.

lihp wrote:
Don't press the brake pedal at all.

FTFY.

Put your foot on it. Don't press it. Stop using the front brake only, unless it's pissing wet.

It's not a hard test, try not to make a big deal out of it.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 08:20 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the purpose of your test as above just pop your foot onto the pedal, no pressure.

For what it's worth the rear can make a difference if you can use it without locking: Front brake only vs Rear brake only vs Combined
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Llama-Farmer
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apply the brake firmly but smoothly, instead of stamping on it.
Take around 1/4 - 1/3 of a second to apply it and it'll be a lot less likely to lock up. If it starts to lock up, ease off, then reapply slightly more gently.

It's not a fail to lock up, it's a fail to lock it uncontrollably, a momentary lock up is acceptable if you release the brakes enough for the wheel to start turning again.


Unless the brakes on the bike are bad (which if they're locking up they aren't) then there is more than enough distance allowed for the emergency braking in Mod 1. You could get away with braking less.
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Wednesday Biker
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PostPosted: 09:00 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to stop reasonably quickly but not as quick as you might think
No need to slam the anchors on.
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vanderbale
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 09:16 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been using the rear brake + front brake, not sure how much I was putting into it.

On my next attempt I'll cover my foot with rear but use fronts only and see how it goes.

Thanks for the advice.
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 09:19 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't sweat it, it's a very common issue.

If you possibly can, stay in 2nd gear to hit the 50kph (well, 48kph) required. This will maximise the engine braking when you close the throttle. Depending on the bike, the rear will become largely redundant anyway.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:59 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

A simulated ed-stop.. it's a bit of make believe.. in the real world you wouldn't know exactly where and when you have to do one, would you?

So it's an exercise to see if you can stop, in a bit of a hurry.. but not THAT much of one.. without 'Panic'... which is what usually causes a lock-up or off in a real e-stop; 'snatching' or 'stamping' brakes rather than pressing them, progressively.... in which, the lack of warning or time to 'think' in a real e-stop CAN actually help not giving you time to 'panic'... not always.. but... that's the reaction you need to avoid.

Of course; lacking the Brownian-Motion Generator of hundreds of every day idiots by fencing off the test area, and given a check-list to work too; Brussels have eliminated any and all 'random idiocy' but that of their own making, so they have to create 'some' to get the panic level back up, and they have done that the way they know best; with lots of paper-work; devious rules, and torturous 'procedures'.. all designed to put you into a state of hyper-anxiety before you start.

SO.. the advice is to simply RELAX - Stop Thinking - Start riding.... and to aid in that, FORGET the term "Emergency-Stop" it isn't. It isn't even close to one. Its a bit of make believe. Its a CONTROLLED STOP.. a fairly brisk one, but that's all, and you know when and where you have to do it; so DON'T PANIC... and remember SQUEEZE the brakes, don't snatch... there's not actually anything in front of you to hit if you don't stop soon enough! So don't sweat it.
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zark
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

^That
I did mine a couple of weeks ago - I was amazed how much braking power there is at the front... gentle squeeze and then firmer and you'll be right.

I remember the instructor telling me not to use the back at all - as with all the weight transferring to the front wheel, you won't get any useful stopping power on the rear anyway - and may well lock it up. I didn't test the theory Confused

Down to a stop - clutch in at the last minute, for added applause.

Don't stress it
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pinkyfloyd
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

As we teach (and Roger said) rest your foot on the rear brake but do not apply any pressure. Your momentum as you apply the front brake will apply enough rear without your input.

Stay away from the clutch. You can let the engine cut out. Pulling the clutch in too early can make the locking up a lot easier (the DVSA Assessor at Cardington pulled the clutch in on his Estop and locked the rear up).
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Raksha
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you got full leathers,bike and a mate who also has a bike.
go find a A road thars national speed limit go down there at night i would recommend 2 am to 4am
and go pratics that how i learned
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talkToTheHat
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 24 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

All of the practice in quiet carparks, industrial estates or the road past my house..

Squeeze that front brake on progressively, once the weight is on the front you can squeeze quite hard without locking up, but snatch at the levers and you're done for. Cover the back enough to put the light on. Ease off the front as you slow down and the front tyre unloads or again the front will lock, progressively putting more force on the back brake as the rear loads up in the last few metres.

Keep your elbows loose, grip the tank with your knees. if you are supporting your self by pushing on the bars you are much more likely to go over if you lock a wheel.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 25 Jun 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the brakes on my ching chong noodle 125 can be used on the Module 1 (A1) and satisfy a DSA examiner as sufficient then any brakes will do.

It's common knowledge that in order to stop in a safe distance and not go into the fence the DSA Examiner raises his hand when you're front wheel is past the speed trap but before the last set of cones in the straight line, so basically, you don't even have to react to him putting his hand up, do it in this order.

As soon as your past the speed trap throttle off, wait a milli second for that hand to go up and grab yourself some front brake, as quick and as safely as possible, at no time should any other control be used alongside the front brake, my foots natural resting position is above the rear brake anyhow so that's no bother for me personally.

Nice firm stop, the front end should dip (this is a must!) and then you can either pull the clutch in to keep it running or forget about it and stall the bike.. you don't fail for stalling so if you're not confident and just want to ensure you don't bin it, the above will be enough to get you through.

On the avoidance (off topic a little) I noticed that there was a clear burnt out line in the tarmac witch followed the path you needed to take for the avoidance, it was like a piece of cake to do.

(He says, awaiting to pass his module 1).

Best of luck Thumbs Up
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