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Brake light illumination please

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blurredman
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 05 Jul 2015    Post subject: Brake light illumination please Reply with quote

Hey,


Recently got a '79 Suzuki TS185 and been sorting niggling things these past few months but one of the last ones that I find interesting is regarding the brake light in particular.

I have found on each occasion I use the bike that on testing the brake light before setting off and all is good it brightens quickly and relatively brightly for a 6v system. Rolling Eyes

If I ride merely a few miles however the brake light is non-existent. The only way to get around this in such a situation is to put on the illumination lights, and the brake light works agin.

I've checked issues like earting and resistence but the earth points and connections are good and solid and with extremely just about zero resistence. Cool

After arriving home, I might come to the bike the next morning and the cycle is repeated. The brake lights illuminate fine. Shocked

Battery is a good 5.5v even after a ride so it looks like it's charging and the bulb draws about 4.9v for the brake fillament. The bike has a new regulator. Any ideas? Laughing
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 05 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is 5.5V good?
Its been a long time since I had a 6v bike here but
I'd expect something closer to 6.5v

I'm basing this assumption on a 6 cell 12v battery which after charge and resting, I'd hope to see 12.6v - ish on a healthy battery
12.6 / 6 = 2.1 per cell
So, on a 3 cell 6V battery, 2.1 *3 = 6.3
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 05 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Is 5.5V good?
Its been a long time since I had a 6v bike here but
I'd expect something closer to 6.5v

I'm basing this assumption on a 6 cell 12v battery which after charge and resting, I'd hope to see 12.6v - ish on a healthy battery
12.6 / 6 = 2.1 per cell
So, on a 3 cell 6V battery, 2.1 *3 = 6.3



It could have been closer to 6v. But after all day riding, and on the previous experience that batteries go flat very quickly if not charged, but used constantly for a light that stays on when braked at a traffic light for instance, coming back from a ride to anywhere near if not just a tad less than 6, has got to be decent in the assumption that it was charging. But i'll double check.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 06 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just convert it to a modern (contactless ignition) 12v system. It's not that complicated to do so and it will make your life easier. Thumbs Up
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 12:25 - 06 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is your default response for anything concerning 6v electrics RhynoCZ. It does not help, unless you wish to front the funds for such a conversion. Razz Razz Hehe




Okay, checked it out this morning. before starting the bike the battery was at 5.8v. When the bike was running at 4k (on choke- has no throttle tube atm), the response was 6.15volts at the battery, and when I turned on the lights the battery displayed just over 7v.

Seeing as the the brake light (as well as horn and neutral light) come on without the engine running it is obvious they take their juice from the battery, but surely the brake light would take at least a little slice from the generator (at least when the lights are switched off) !? It seems it only makes this connection when the lights are turned on..

Looking at the figures it suggests to me the battery barely gets charged when the lights are off. Therefore sitting around at traffic lights with my hand/foot on the brake is using up all the battery and therefore the brake light doesn't work. Turning on the lights charges the battery at an increased rate and thus why the brake light works when I turn off the main lights when I get back home.

It would be obviously advantageous to make a patch wire if that would be possible.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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Taught2BCauti...
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 06 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had similar problems with bulbs that work or don't work under varying conditions - just change the bulb!
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:45 - 06 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:
That is your default response for anything concerning 6v electrics RhynoCZ. It does not help, unless you wish to front the funds for such a conversion. Razz Razz Hehe


12 volts to rule them all. Razz

If I had a 6v motorcycle, and I wouldn't convert it to 12v, I'd try some 6v LED's for the tail light. Just make sure it's got atleast 400+lm. I tried 12v 300lm bulbs in my ZXR and it was no good, now I run 600lm LED bulbs and it shines the same as the conventional bulbs, but the LED's do not suck that much of power from the system, so my head lights don't dim when I brake. Also, LED's last 60,000 hours or so, before you need to change them and they are not that expensive. I got mine from China = very cheap, works the same as those you can buy at your local shop. The local shop got their stock also from China, so why should you pay the extra money? Once you put the tail light cover on, you can't tell wether there's a LED bulb or a conventional one, well the ON/OFF of a LED bulb is immediate, unlike the conventional bulbs that take some time to get bright and dim again. Thumbs Up

https://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/3/2/3/2/4/3/webimg/660670675_o.jpg
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 06 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that is more of a fair point Rhyno, and indeed T2BC.

What are the differences in draw between an LED light and a conventional light at the same Wattage (let's say 25w) do you think??
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 06 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not quite sure about that, but I put a pair of BAY15D 6W 600lm there instead of two conventional bulbs, that were 21w+5w. The luminescence/brightness is the same, and the draw is now only 12w max. instead of 42w/52w (52w when braking). Thumbs Up

It's all about the luminosity/brightness, 600lm is about the same as the conventional 21w+5w bulb. I got my pair of bulbs from dx.com for £4+ shipping. I also had some 300lm bulbs to try, but those were way too dim to put into the tail light.

Oh, and also check the color temperature. I got 6000~6500K which gives about the same colour as the conventional bulbs. The tail light looks the same even in the direct sunlight, so it can't get any better.

Here's the picture of my tail light with the 6w 600lm bulbs. As I've said, on can't tell the difference between an LED and conventional bulb once the light cover is on.
https://i970.photobucket.com/albums/ae184/RhynoCZ/ZX7R/DSC00180_zps32165123.jpg
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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iooi
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PostPosted: 09:09 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:



Okay, checked it out this morning. before starting the bike the battery was at 5.8v. When the bike was running at 4k (on choke- has no throttle tube atm), the response was 6.15volts at the battery, and when I turned on the lights the battery displayed just over 7v.


Something is not right there.
You should have a higher voltage when the lights are OFF, not when they are on.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 09:42 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NKVD fan wrote:
RhynoCZ wrote:
I'd just convert it to a modern (contactless ignition) 12v system. It's not that complicated to do so and it will make your life easier. Thumbs Up


Of course it is. Show me a kit for a TS185 you knobber. Rolling Eyes


You don't really need a specified kit, the TS 185 is a pretty generic two stroke single cylinder. Thumbs Up
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

NKVD fan wrote:
RhynoCZ wrote:


You don't really need a specified kit, the TS 185 is a pretty generic two stroke single cylinder. Thumbs Up


So show me this "generic" magic kit then. Rolling Eyes

Considering it will need a bike specific flywheel to trigger it (that fits the TS crank) and a stator that will fit the TS crankcase and none of the usual suspects list such items for a TS185 i politely suggest that you stop guessing at solutions.


Yes, I am guessing a bit, since the TS was never sold here, but then all the Jawa's and CZ's can be easily converted to 12v, and even to contactless ignition. Not even using a kit. And what's got the TS engine that a Jawa/CZ engines don't?

5 seconds on ebay and I found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-SP370-12v-Lighting-Conversion-DT-TS-XL-also-/261953536478?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cfda5c1de&vxp=mtr

I can't see what is different with the coils, but I can see a rather modern looking regulator and some forums even sugest just to change the reg/rec. Bulbs, fuses, horn and other bits that ran on 6v before as well of course Thinking

Check this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcU_VAxwT38 (he never touched the ignition = it will run the same, but with 12v now). Before you go mental, because it's not a 185 but a 250, it's still the same engine desing and as I've said, he never touched the ignition.

I've never worked on a TS, but looking at the wiring diagram, it's not rocket science.
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'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 07 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

From the diagrams I've seen (and if they're correct)
the TS does have contactless igntion
ie CDI with source coil and pulser on the flywheel

AFAIK It has a 'cake bar' stator but unsure if two or three coils
One will be the CDi source coil and the other one (or two) will be
charging coils.
It would be easy to rewind the charge coils from single sided half wave 6v system to a 12v full wave but while you'd double the voltage
I doubt you'd double the power so here's where leds would help

OR
use a DC CDI and convert the source coil windings to charge coils, a 3 phase full wave system would be nice if poss
Need to see pics to get a better idea of options though
the loom and switch mods would be pretty easy
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