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Filling the hole

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lingeringstin...
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 01 May 2014
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 13 Jul 2015    Post subject: Filling the hole Reply with quote

So here's something that's been annoying me.

I want alter the guts of an engine. It's two stroke so should be easy enough to do.

For reasons too complicated to go into here I want to find an alternate source of con rods and pistons to fit on an existing crank.

Altering the barrel to suit a different con rod or piston is actually pretty easy within like 10mm either way. I've successfully used a taller piston before by making a spacer to fit under the barrel and it worked fine. Shortening a barrel to accommodate a shorter con rod and piston is easy enough too at the local back street old school bike shop or engineerinmg place and not expensive to have done.

Pistons between about 70mm to 77mm can be used in my application, so that should give scope for some possibilities.

So for instance fitting something like a snowmobile piston to some alternate con rod that just happens to fit the crank pin diameter I'm using shouldn't be that hard to do in theory.

I need to locate information so I can look up dimensions and measurements and see if there's something out there I can use.

The problem is that it's very hard to find or cross reference the actual measurements of con rods, crank pins and pistons. Most of the time you just get generalities like a certain con rod, part number blah-blah, fits years 78 to 92 Suzuki (European market exclusively) but only if it's painted red or something equally vague. I need specifics!

There's some limited info on the Wiseco sites and that sort of thing but I'm still finding it difficult to get just plain and simple measurements of readily available con rods and two stroke pistons.

Anybody know where to look for such info?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 13 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You ought to be able to find out what size bearing they take in the big end. That'll give you the crank-pin and big end dimensions.

Has stinkybob been breaking conrods?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Mysteriass
Nova Slayer



Joined: 06 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 13 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds fascinating...thought those days of engineering engines were gone. Knock us up a video on youtube if you do some of this work, perhaps?

Was looking for parts for my own bike a couple months back, was wondering if I could bodge it with something else if at some point it became impossible to obtain the "correct" parts.

Bit of info here:

https://www.mitaka.co.uk

There's other sites too, jap manufacturer sites if I remember correctly, I'll see if I've bookmarked any of it and post them here if I've still got the links.
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lingeringstin...
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 01 May 2014
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 14 Jul 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You ought to be able to find out what size bearing they take in the big end. That'll give you the crank-pin and big end dimensions.

Has stinkybob been breaking conrods?




Not breaking conrods because I don't try to build go-faster MZ engines anymore (oh the folly!). And even back then it never broke any, just bent them to buggery if you did stupid things. Usually the ally big end bearing cage would melt first. My view these days is that more CC's and less stress makes for more dependable engines.

The problem is spares are getting harder to find. For complicated reasons I prefer to use the old style MZ cranks with the 28mm crank pin as opposed to the newer ones with the 34mm pin, and finding 28mm crank rebuild gubbins for MZ is almost impossible but there's plenty of other 28mm con rods out there readily available in the plus or minus 10mm length. Gudgeon pin size is less of an issue.

Pretty much all secondhand MZ barrels these days will be worn to buggery and but there's generally a lot of scope there. You can bore a 69mm 250 barrel out to at least 77mm (300+ piston size) so any readily available decent quality 70mm+ pistons should work.

I'm not sure how far you can bore out an MZ300 barrel because I've never had a factory one, just bored out 250's, but you could probably go out to around 80-ish size easy enough so that puts a few snowmobile and jetski pistons in the running.

The biggest problem is knowing the crown and skirt measurements. Skirts can be shortened without too much trouble but the crown bits require more attention due to porting and combustion chamber shape etc. The barrel may need some modification. Unfortunately those measurements are often omitted from piston specifications as the bore size is seen to be the crutial bit but that's only if you're putting a piston into an engine it belongs in.

Also I've always hated the crank mounted MZ clutch and these days gearbox bits are becoming rare or expensive so I'm toying with the idea of fitting a CVT and doing away with the gearbox altogether but that's a tale for another day.

Same thing with my old faithful SU carb. They're increasingly "vintage" and sort of costly to maintain. The jet tube on mine seems to need replacing yearly and I'm running a 1930's brass slide that I could never find again if I tried so I've ordered a cheapo Chinese K65 copy to try out.

Brownie points to anybody who knows what a K65 is without looking it up.
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