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Wheel removal for new tyres

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Tr1gg0R
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 12 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Wheel removal for new tyres Reply with quote

Hello everyone.

I've got a flat rear tyre on my YBR 125, I've decided to replace both tyres with Michelin pilot sportys as I've heard such good things. So I'm trying to remove the wheels to take to get the new tyres fitted.

I've stumbled at the first hurdle because I can't work out how to loosen the chain enough to take it off the sprocket. I've loosened the bolts either side of the wheel (the ones you use to tighten the chain) and thought at that point I'd sort of just lift the chain off the sprocket and move it to one side (?).

After that point I think I've worked out how to remove the axel and take the wheel off.

I think the front will be easier (?).

tl;dr - how do I get the wheels off my YBR 125?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just pull the wheel rod out, then push the wheel forward a bit to take off the chain. Thumbs Up

If you can't pull it out, just use something to gently knock onto the rod from the side where the nut was, then you should be able to pull it out from the other side.

See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_6FZVbDuLA Thumbs Up
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Re: Wheel removal for new tyres Reply with quote

Tr1gg0R wrote:
Hello everyone.

I've got a flat rear tyre on my YBR 125, I've decided to replace both tyres with Michelin pilot sportys as I've heard such good things. So I'm trying to remove the wheels to take to get the new tyres fitted.

I've stumbled at the first hurdle because I can't work out how to loosen the chain enough to take it off the sprocket. I've loosened the bolts either side of the wheel (the ones you use to tighten the chain) and thought at that point I'd sort of just lift the chain off the sprocket and move it to one side (?).

After that point I think I've worked out how to remove the axel and take the wheel off.

I think the front will be easier (?).

tl;dr - how do I get the wheels off my YBR 125?


The front wheel of a bike is always more of a cnut as it is difficult to support the bike. Without paddock stands (and possibly adaptors).

I usually tie her washing line around the top yoke and hoi it up onto a rafter in the garage.

If no garage a sturdy tree.

You must be aware of the weight of the bike and the sturdiness of the support.

If you have a center stand on the bike then less problem. Just put a load of shit on the back seat and the bike should pivot over onto the rear wheel (if it is still on the bike).

Before you pull the wheel out it is easier to remove the brake caliper.
Loosen the bolts.
Twist the caliper on the disc (gently, to avoid damage) that will push the pads off the disc so you can slip the caliper back on later.
Pull out the front spindle and remove the wheel.
Be careful that you don't lose any spacers and note which one comes out of what side. They are also the inner track for the grease seals to run on.
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Taught2BCauti...
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the chain is still too tight, try removing the front sprocket.

You may need to separate the pads a little to get the disks to fit when you put the wheels back on.
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Tr1gg0R
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Joined: 12 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all your help guys.

Everything done, all reassembled (correctly I think!!).

Right couple of things - when I was struggling to undo the bolt on the rear wheel a couple of times the spanner slipped and the bike rocked forward followed by a second or two of a sound like gas escaping. Now that everything's back together I fired it up and I can hear both a gentle hissing (perhaps could be described as a light squeal) and a constant ticking noise.. Any ideas what might be causing these noises?

Also the brake light doesn't come on from rear brake unless I'm pressing it down very hard.. Does that mean I've tightened it too much?

Sorry for the stupid questions I'm just a bit out of my depth I think!
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Tr1gg0R
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Joined: 12 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The whirring squeal noise is coming from the tank and sounds like the fuel injection, only a little quieter...... I'm a little worried!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hissing when you rocked the bike is probably the pressure equalising in the tank through the breather, a bit like opening a drinks bottle. Was it very sunny when you were working?

The fuel pump noise is normal.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Tr1gg0R
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Joined: 12 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Pete,

Yes very sunny and black bike so it had gotten quite hot so that makes a lot of sense.

The noise like the fuel pump is going on after I turn the engine on and I'm sure I haven't noticed it before. So I get the standard fuel pump noise when turning the ignition on, then it stops, then I start the engine and again I can hear a similar noise - seems very strange?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought:
Bike in gear.
Wheel turned.
Compression escape.

Just sayin...

Very Happy
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Pete.
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Joined: 22 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 08 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tr1gg0R wrote:
Hi Pete,

Yes very sunny and black bike so it had gotten quite hot so that makes a lot of sense.

The noise like the fuel pump is going on after I turn the engine on and I'm sure I haven't noticed it before. So I get the standard fuel pump noise when turning the ignition on, then it stops, then I start the engine and again I can hear a similar noise - seems very strange?


No, that's normal for pretty much all FI bikes. When you turn it on the pump primes the system for a few seconds then stops. It then re-starts when you crank it.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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zark
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Joined: 18 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the brake light... At the right hand side of the rear wheel, push the rod towards the front of the bike and wind in the nobbly bit on the end... This will lift the brake pedal up. Adjust it until you get the right amount of push, before the brake comes on...
Otherwise, the brake light switch is just behind the pedal, but adjust the rod first
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 09 Aug 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

zark wrote:
For the brake light... At the right hand side of the rear wheel, push the rod towards the front of the bike and wind in the nobbly bit on the end... This will lift the brake pedal up.


It shouldn't. That adjustment is to adjust for wear in the pads. The lever is lifted by the spring and the lever height is set by the stop.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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