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Drz 400sm electrics tripping when starting?

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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Drz 400sm electrics tripping when starting? Reply with quote

Hello all Smile

So went to start the drz today i hear a click under the seat and all the electrics go off Thumbs Down if i leave the bike all the electrics come back on after about 20 seconds but will not start

It happens as soon as i press the starter button

Ive had a look under the seat and behind the light but all looks well

Anyone no whats up its just had a new battery

Thanks
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:50 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was the 'new' battery fully charged at time of fitting?
SOme batteries are ready to go out the box but old tech wet batteries need a charge after filling with acid.

Or...

The connections are dirty. Clean all big connections between the battery and the main relay (the main relay controls and distributes power to everything on the bike.)

Or the main relay is goosed.

Why was the 'new' battery fitted? Was the old battery competently tested before scrapping?
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Rogerborg
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Drz 400sm electrics tripping when starting? Reply with quote

hondakawasaki wrote:
Anyone no whats up its just had a new battery

This again?

Why did it have a new battery?

What was wrong with the old one? What killed it? What diagnostics did you do to ensure that it was charging, and not over charging?
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Drz 400sm electrics tripping when starting? Reply with quote

Rogerborg wrote:
hondakawasaki wrote:
Anyone no whats up its just had a new battery

This again?

Why did it have a new battery?

What was wrong with the old one? What killed it? What diagnostics did you do to ensure that it was charging, and not over charging?


This^ what you are describing is most likely a dead battery get a multimeter and see how many volts it is putting out.


Another thing to try is checking the earth connection. if it is like my KTM there is a wire from the negative side of the battery direct to the frame. If this is loose or corroded it may cause similar problems.
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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi thanks for the replys

Well i went for a ride one day came back and the battery was dead

charged it up over night and it was still dead i could smell the acid

when i tried starting it so i put a new battery in it

Thanks
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 08 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

hondakawasaki wrote:
Hi thanks for the replys

Well i went for a ride one day came back and the battery was dead

charged it up over night and it was still dead i could smell the acid

when i tried starting it so i put a new battery in it

Thanks


Smell of acid may be an indication of overcharging which can boil the electrolyte in the battery and cause it to spit out H2S gas.

You need to establish what the bike's charging system is doing using a volt meter.
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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 19:53 - 11 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Very Happy

so i got a multimeter battery is around 12.5 volts and when running its around 14.3 volts irc also if i disconnect the battery while the bike is started and test the power going to the battery its around 6 volts

as soon as i press the starter button it will trip out and the battery goes as low as 1 volt

i can manage to start it sometimes but if i ride it it seems to trip out and the dash and lights flash i guess this is what is happening when i test it

any ideas have checked all the wiring and looks fine Question
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chris-red
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 11 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

14.3v on idle? that's a bit hi IMO, rev the bike up to about half revs and see what the voltage is it shouldn't be above 15.
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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So got the bike started

Checked voltage at battery when running is 13.9 v when i rev it goes down to around 13.5

Also found the short behind the headlight was a wire for the headlight bulb unplugged it and no more short the wire looks fine though

Seems it was an intermittent short because it wasn't happening all the time and i cant get it to happen now Confused

Could this have killed my battery was riding it about with the short circuit

Also checked the voltage coming from the stator i read it should be around 70 volts ac if i remember correctly im getting 13.9 volts ac and around 4 - 5 volts dc

Could it have been the short what killed my battery ?

Any ideas? Thanks
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

hondakawasaki wrote:
So got the bike started

Checked voltage at battery when running is 13.9 v when i rev it goes down to around 13.5

Also found the short behind the headlight was a wire for the headlight bulb unplugged it and no more short the wire looks fine though

Seems it was an intermittent short because it wasn't happening all the time and i cant get it to happen now Confused

Could this have killed my battery was riding it about with the short circuit

Also checked the voltage coming from the stator i read it should be around 70 volts ac if i remember correctly im getting 13.9 volts ac and around 4 - 5 volts dc

Could it have been the short what killed my battery ?

Any ideas? Thanks


The regulator will only allow enough electrics to charge/maintain the energy on the battery. This is with all consumers on.
14.5v-ish at idle sounds OK to me. I don't think they like to go above 15v or it overheats the battery and boils off the electrolyte (water).
Modern charging systems can put loads of juice out at fairly low RPMs Older systems were less capable.
A short circuit will not really worry a battery as they should be capable of melting a 3/4" combination spanner if dropped across the posts and still start an engine for years after (Been there and seen that, funny but not that funny. Smile and it was not me. )

The 'New' battery may be defective and should be returned for refund/replacement under the shop's/manufacturer's warranty.
Normally if you pay enough for a battery you get excellent service from them. If you go cheap you may invest in a world of pain whenever the chips are down.

A short on the bike will not do the battery any good if the voltage is allowed to get very low over time. This causes the chemistry inside the battery to affect the plates. (Google Lead Acid Battery)
When that happens the battery can still be re-charged and show a happy smile 13v. But as soon as any load is placed on the battery the voltage will drop quickly.
This is because the plates can no longer store a lot of the electricity things now.

There is some remedial stuff/(shite) that you can do with batteries but they are never even half as good as a good battery.

I purchased a 6v lead acid battery for my BSA about 2yrs ago. It was a ChinChong Speshal and I had no faith in it. It was even on a 6v battery conditioner. It lasted about 3 months so was given in to the East Riding of Yorkshire District Cooncil for their Re-Cycle operation.
I replaced that with a nice Yuasa battery which has been on the bike for over a year now and is still Thumbs Up
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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery was only £20 so tested the stator and rectifier they work as they should was testing them wrong at first

Took the bike for a ride to make sure it wasn't shorting out still with the wire unplugged i thought was doing it made it about 50 meters and it started shorting out again Sad

Makes me think is it possible for the battery itself to short out every time it shorts out i can smell the battery acid and could that be what is tripping out the electrics

I know the battery is knackered it will not hold a charge for long after the ride the battery is at 10 volts

Thanks Smile
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:32 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

£20 for the size of battery seems cheap.
I would expect to pay £30-40.

The smell is H2S which is normal but as your battery has a fault that may be more persistent.
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hondakawasaki
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PostPosted: 00:29 - 14 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

just seems weird that the new battery died so quick and the battery before died the same way, that one didn't trip the electrics though

don't want to spend £40 on a new battery and the same happen again Confused

anyone recommend a good battery Question

thanks Thumbs Up
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 08:35 - 14 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reg/rec sounds suspect to me. You have a good strong voltage at idle, but when you rev the engine the voltage drops.

Assuming you have a typical shunt-type reg/rec, it has 3 pairs of diodes that handle the shunting. Over time heat kills them. By the sound of it, one or two of the diode pairs has failed but at least one pair is still working - so the battery is still receiving a good charge at low revs when the diodes aren't having to switch very fast.

I would be replacing the reg/rec.
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