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rubbing brakes

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: rubbing brakes Reply with quote

I've had the callipers on the ZZR aligned so that the centreline of the calliper and the centreline of the disk are aligned instead of sitting off centre.

One of the callipers had been sitting at an angle and so the pads in this calliper had worn at an angle - as there's a fair bit of wear left in them we've swapped them to even the wear out and they're rubbing a bit, on the way home from the garage they started scraping unless I brake slightly.

chap at the garage reckons this is fine and just the pads wearing back to the correct shape and it'll go away soon enough.

The brakes are hot when I stop even though I've done less than 10 miles and the bike is a pig to push.

I've got a new set of pads - should I just stick those in or just accept a bit of noise and heat?
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RS_Raz
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fit the new pads. Never compromise with brakes.
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

RS_Raz wrote:
Fit the new pads. Never compromise with brakes.


What he said.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brakes work and stop the bike well, it's just the current rubbing and slightly soft lever that I'm wanting to double check

anyone taken pads out, serviced brakes and put the pads in having not kept track of which way rounds the pads were and had similar?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what you mean by 'centre lines'. With respect to what?

Anyway, the rubbing and soft feel is probably due to the pad contacting the disc on the 'high-spot' created by the 'misalignment' and then being pushed onto the disc by increased piston travel. That will account for the 'soft feel' as you are effectively not applying force to a flat/even surface.
This effect is not optimal as it introduces some delay into braking time and a risk of the piston/s cocking in the cylinder.

The heat is likely due to the pad not returning to a designed 'brakes off' state when the lever is released. The rubbing/scraping will produce heat.

Hydraulic Disc brakes rely on the flex in the piston/cylinder seals to allow the piston to rest in a 'brake off' position.
They self-adjust because the more the pad wears the more the piston can move out the cylinder (and squeeze through the seals). There is no spring or other force to pull the piston back but the design of the piston seals return to a rest position and pull the piston off slightly. (Micro-millimetres) There is still very very slight pad contact with the disc but that doesn't create much friction.
This is why a disc brake can feel tight if the bike has been parked for some time and the disc gets a bit of rust on. Until you scrape the rust film off the pads will grip the disc.

The pad will eventually 'conform' to the alignment of the calliper but I would investigate why the calliper is off-set and address that.
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other risk you are taking is that the old pads are constantly rubbing on the disc. You mentioned that the disc is getting red hot and the brakes are binding. Unless the old pads settle in very quickly, you risk warping the disc. That would cost much more than a new set of pads.

It's a simple and cheap fix. Avoid it getting expensive and risking brake failure.
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Gazz
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 03 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had an off a couple of years back because of the same thing. The front brakes heated up so much that they locked up the front wheel. Lesson learned the hard way.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 07:17 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
MCN wrote:
I don't know what you mean by 'centre lines'. With respect to what?


I believe OP means looking from above, parallel to the bike.


yes, centre of calliper is aligned with the disk instead of being slightly offset

I've changed the pads, I can see on the old ones where they're starting to wear back to shape but perhaps best to go with the fit and forget solution of new pads.
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 07:25 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

[/quote]

yes, centre of calliper is aligned with the disk instead of being slightly offset

I've changed the pads, I can see on the old ones where they're starting to wear back to shape but perhaps best to go with the fit and forget solution of new pads.[/quote]

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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 08:28 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

20 miles later and the brakes are rubbing still (normal with new pads?) the calipers were serviced a few weeks ago so should be functioning properly.

Lever is firm for first time in my ownership, i'd gotten used to it being a bit soft.

disks are hot to the touch but calipers are not which is an improvement on last night.

am I now worrying about not a lot and just need to wait for it to bed in?
the brakes rubbing makes pushing the bike hard work.
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P.addy
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Non OEM calipers I assume?

Service originals if so and stick them back on.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Non OEM calipers I assume?

Service originals if so and stick them back on.


Correct but not an option, these are the calipers that were on the bike when I got it
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
MCN wrote:
I don't know what you mean by 'centre lines'. With respect to what?


I believe OP means looking from above, parallel to the bike.


I still can't understand how it's possible to align callipers in any other plane from the alignment of the 'fit' of the bolts have.

Nor do I understand why one would wish to change that.

Paint Diagram Required please. Very Happy

Quite obviously there is a problem with the way the callipers have been fitted or the 'fit' is not suitable for the forks.
This could end in fail.

Perhaps the OP could investigate what are correct fit alternatives or fit OEM.
Billy Bodge-it may have clashed callipers from a different machine on. This is compromising safety in a place safety should be a bit of a priority Very Happy
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Vincent wrote:


I believe OP means looking from above, parallel to the bike.


I still can't understand how it's possible to align callipers in any other plane from the alignment of the 'fit' of the bolts have.

Nor do I understand why one would wish to change that.

Paint Diagram Required please. Very Happy

Quite obviously there is a problem with the way the callipers have been fitted or the 'fit' is not suitable for the forks.
This could end in fail.

Perhaps the OP could investigate what are correct fit alternatives or fit OEM.
Billy Bodge-it may have clashed callipers from a different machine on. This is compromising safety in a place safety should be a bit of a priority Very Happy


The calipers on the bike are a common modification (NISINS) on a ZZR600E but were badly fitted, a bit of metal body on the mount needs filing back slightly to allow the caliper to sit properly and so it was pushed slightly out of alignment - this has now been done so the calipers sit in line with the disk instead of at a slight angle.

new pads have now been fitted to get around the issue of re-using unevenly worn pads but the new pads are rubbing, possibly just while wearing in?

that is the main question now, do pads sometimes rub for a bit when wearing in?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonko The Sane wrote:
The calipers on the bike are a common modification (NISINS) on a ZZR600E but were badly fitted, a bit of metal body on the mount needs filing back slightly to allow the caliper to sit properly and so it was pushed slightly out of alignment - this has now been done so the calipers sit in line with the disk instead of at a slight angle.

new pads have now been fitted to get around the issue of re-using unevenly worn pads but the new pads are rubbing, possibly just while wearing in?

that is the main question now, do pads sometimes rub for a bit when wearing in?


New pads will 'bed-in' slightly but should not be very noticeable.
If the pads are still wearing unevenly then perhaps the filing has to be re-visited.

I assumed there was interference between the calliper and fork which I why I asked the question. It was't mad clear that it has been 'fitted'.

Pads will also rub if the pistons are too tight in the calliper cylinders as the pistons seals won't be able to pull the piston back off the pads. That can require a strip down and clean out to remove brake pad dust, road film, metal from the disc and a combination of all three. Or salty roads corrosion of the callipers pistons.

You could try a cheat by removing the pads, pushing the pistons out of the callipers a bit. Use good quality brake cleaner and the GF's toothbrush to clean around the piston gaiters. Look for any holes in the rubbers as that will allow shit to easily penetrate the mechanism. Which is normally the cause of sticky pistons.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:


New pads will 'bed-in' slightly but should not be very noticeable.
If the pads are still wearing unevenly then perhaps the filing has to be re-visited.

I assumed there was interference between the calliper and fork which I why I asked the question. It was't mad clear that it has been 'fitted'.

Pads will also rub if the pistons are too tight in the calliper cylinders as the pistons seals won't be able to pull the piston back off the pads. That can require a strip down and clean out to remove brake pad dust, road film, metal from the disc and a combination of all three. Or salty roads corrosion of the callipers pistons.

You could try a cheat by removing the pads, pushing the pistons out of the callipers a bit. Use good quality brake cleaner and the GF's toothbrush to clean around the piston gaiters. Look for any holes in the rubbers as that will allow shit to easily penetrate the mechanism. Which is normally the cause of sticky pistons.


Sorry, yes, the interference has been dealt with as best as can be.

The calipers had a complete strip and clean only a couple of weeks ago and the pistons were fairly easy to push back when fitting the new pads.

I'll see if it frees up after another 20 mile ride home and go from there.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonko The Sane wrote:
MCN wrote:


New pads will 'bed-in' slightly but should not be very noticeable.
If the pads are still wearing unevenly then perhaps the filing has to be re-visited.

I assumed there was interference between the calliper and fork which I why I asked the question. It was't mad clear that it has been 'fitted'.

Pads will also rub if the pistons are too tight in the calliper cylinders as the pistons seals won't be able to pull the piston back off the pads. That can require a strip down and clean out to remove brake pad dust, road film, metal from the disc and a combination of all three. Or salty roads corrosion of the callipers pistons.

You could try a cheat by removing the pads, pushing the pistons out of the callipers a bit. Use good quality brake cleaner and the GF's toothbrush to clean around the piston gaiters. Look for any holes in the rubbers as that will allow shit to easily penetrate the mechanism. Which is normally the cause of sticky pistons.


Sorry, yes, the interference has been dealt with as best as can be.

The calipers had a complete strip and clean only a couple of weeks ago and the pistons were fairly easy to push back when fitting the new pads.

I'll see if it frees up after another 20 mile ride home and go from there.


On the ride use the brakes severely to get some heat in them. The heat can vaporise the friction material and bed the pads in better.
That means short hard pulses of the lever (without pulling a stoppie and be sure there's no dopey cnuts behind you. Embarassed )
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Papa Lazarou
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 04 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

[/quote]

On the ride use the brakes severely to get some heat in them. The heat can vaporise the friction material and bed the pads in better.
That means short hard pulses of the lever (without pulling a stoppie and be sure there's no dopey cnuts behind you. Embarassed )[/quote]

20 miles is a lot.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 07:41 - 05 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, heat was getting into them, they were rubbing a bit too much making it hard to push the bike once stopped.

Took it steady on the way home letting the brakes cool from time to time - callipers were cool but brakes hot (I know they're meant to get hot from time to time)

The brake fluid reservoir was pretty much full so wondering if a bit too much fluid causing the pistons to not move back as much as they ought,

stopped about a mile from home and took a little bit of fluid out brakes were cooler when I got home (usually hot after a mile or so) and bike easier to shunt into where I park compared with when I left work.
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Wonko The Sane
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 07 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vincent wrote:
Has the master cylinder got the rubber bellows thing in?


Not as far as I can see, but then the master cylinder / reservoir is cast metal with a couple of holes down into the master cylinder.

things seem much better today, can touch the brakes and keep my hand there after 20 miles of 50mph & 70mph motorway
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