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Stripped/rounded off screws on brake fluid reservoir

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Andy9934
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Stripped/rounded off screws on brake fluid reservoir Reply with quote

My brake fluid reservoir screws are badly rusted and rounded off. Does anyone know where I can find replacement screws or even a reservoir?

I don't know if I'm searching using the wrong terms but I can't find anything on ebay.

Thanks

Edit: Honda Varadero, and I've not tried to remove them but I was expecting I'd have to drill them out.
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Last edited by Andy9934 on 11:43 - 13 Sep 2015; edited 1 time in total
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Re: Stripped/rounded off screws on brake fluid reservoir Reply with quote

Andy9934 wrote:
My brake fluid reservoir screws are badly rusted and rounded off. Does anyone know where I can find replacement screws or even a reservoir?

I don't know if I'm searching using the wrong terms but I can't find anything on ebay.

Thanks

hi,
is it a Japanese bike by any chance?
these come with JIS screws as standard. most ppl don't have a JIS screwdriver so they attempt to loosen them with a phillips screwdriver
this is wrong! thats how they get chewed up.
yours are in a bit of a state, I'd just use a dremel & grind the heads off (takes 5mins)
you can then lift off lid.
you will now be left with 2 screw stumps/shafts & these can be unscrewed with mole-grips.
then take to local hardware store (to match threads) & buy a couple of standard countersunk set screws (which won't be JIS headed) & refit, with a little copper grease on the threads.

cheers,
GAZ
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mgh0
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

probably an m4x12mm bolt/screw

drill out the current ones and replace
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammer time. Thumbs Up

I have been there, I had to use a sharp punch (like a screw driver), that I put off the center and knocked it so the screw turned left (loose) with each hit of the hammer on the punch.
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Undinist
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enough with the destruction gents, he didn't say he couldn't get them out, he just wants to buy new ones! Try this https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/. You should end up with the Honda part number, which I predict will be 93600-040120G. If you google the part number you'll get links to parts you can order.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use a standard HSS drill bit and drill the head off. The angle of the drill may not be the same as the angle of the screw head so use a small diameter drill bit.
As in the above Dremel method once you get the heads off you can remove the cover and whip the stumps out. They shouldn't be too tight in the reservoir and normal engineer's pliers should be able to grip the stumps.

If the rust on the heads of those screws and the fluid visible through the window are a clue, then that cover has not been off for a while.
May I suggest you change the fluid in the system when you get the cover off? You should change every 2 years (Awaits hail of posts and negative karma from nae-sayers suggesting otherwise).
Brake fluid should be more or less clear. Not yellow/orange like wot's in there. Smile
You should easily be able to get SS (Stainless Steel) screws to suit that thread which may save you butt-hurt in the future.
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Raffles
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Undinist wrote:
Enough with the destruction gents, he didn't say he couldn't get them out, he just wants to buy new ones!

Seeking out a replacement reservoir would suggest otherwise.

OP, if you don't have a proper hardware store nearby, you can get 2 replacement screws and 18 spares from Amazon for £1.87 including postage.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 12 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Its very common with tapered parts like a CSK screw, especially cheap low grade screws. Correct screwdriver would be unlikely to shift it, incorrect doesn't have a chance.

Socket/torx head are more reliable. and a decent grade will not round easily. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181591019677


As mentioned, they is/were Japanese style slot screws. The problem isn't the screw it's self but the Monkey who used a Philips or Pozidrive or Generic 'Star Screw Driver'. Rolling Eyes

The slots have been minced which strips the Zink/Nickle/Woteva plating off and the corrosion process kicks in.
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Andy9934
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, I think the dremel option sounds better than the drill I was planning to use so I will give that a go if I can't sort it with a hammer and punch.

It is called a reservoir, right? Seems like the kind of thing that should be common enough on ebay, no?
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Undinist
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll find it if you use the link to Honda parts which I posted above.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 12:07 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

By the way, there's no need to buy a brand new brake fluid reservoir, if you damage yours. Just be careful not to dig into the reservoir's cap and it'll be alright. Thumbs Up
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
As mentioned, they is/were Japanese style slot screws. The problem isn't the screw it's self but the Monkey who used a Philips or Pozidrive or Generic 'Star Screw Driver'. Rolling Eyes

The slots have been minced which strips the Zink/Nickle/Woteva plating off and the corrosion process kicks in.


No. Corrosion on top is irrelevant, corrosion on the tapered seat greatly increases the torque required to undo and a tapered seat requires far more torque than normal anyway. JIS/phillips/slot screw heads are not able to transmit much torque before being damaged, and they are all low grade rather than HT.

I use 12.9, plain bolts for most things. Couldnt give a shit about rust as they undo easily every time. Anyway a wipe with oily rag will prevent rusting. Stainless socket heads in this size will also round if you do not use anti seize.
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Andy9934
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both were too mushed for the hammer to work but I managed to do an alright job by drilling them out. Fluid inside looks like it's been in there for years!

Thanks for your help all
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 13 Sep 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
MCN wrote:
As mentioned, they is/were Japanese style slot screws. The problem isn't the screw it's self but the Monkey who used a Philips or Pozidrive or Generic 'Star Screw Driver'. Rolling Eyes

The slots have been minced which strips the Zink/Nickle/Woteva plating off and the corrosion process kicks in.


No. Corrosion on top is irrelevant, corrosion on the tapered seat greatly increases the torque required to undo and a tapered seat requires far more torque than normal anyway. JIS/phillips/slot screw heads are not able to transmit much torque before being damaged, and they are all low grade rather than HT.

I use 12.9, plain bolts for most things. Couldnt give a shit about rust as they undo easily every time. Anyway a wipe with oily rag will prevent rusting. Stainless socket heads in this size will also round if you do not use anti seize.


Corrosion on top is corrosion on the top.
I didn't suggest that has anything to do with the slot being mashed. It is the result of the protective coating being damaged when the slot was mashed.

To be precise, SS is not the only metal which requires anti-sieze and some applications specifically do not use any anti-sieze/lube due to how it affects clamping.

The main issue was removing the screws.

Edit:
JIS

No disrespect intended but a lot of folks are 'stubbornly dumb' and will happily use a hammer to crack a nut. My post mentioned 'Star Screwdriver'.
That is like saying a motorbike is a motorbike. When we all know that a motorbike is a Motorcycle

They are out now so crisis has been averted though the OP has not mentioned if any baby felines were subject to harm. He maybe has a heart and kept them indoors.
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