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Matt B
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what you're saying is you have oil up past the rings, causing it to hydraulic and lock up?

Did oil spurt out of the plug hole when you cranked it?
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 03 Nov 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
So what you're saying is you have oil up past the rings, causing it to hydraulic and lock up?

Did oil spurt out of the plug hole when you cranked it?


What I'm saying is that with it on it's side it could possibly have had oil flowing down there. When turning it over nothing came out the plug hole.
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P.
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it dead yet? Updates smiler boy Smile
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 13:25 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's dead and he has killed another one since...
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P.
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
I think it's dead and he has killed another one since...


Laughing 10 points
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clapping Cool
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Rob Fzs
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PostPosted: 13:35 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bullet proof, but not smiler proof
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Boxing
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PostPosted: 14:06 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't touch a stolen bike that looks like that with a 100 ft barge pole. They'd be riding that to within an inch of its life every time they got on it. They couldn't give a monkeys about the bike, it isn't there's.

I'm from a rubbish area where bike theft is prominent. Often see the hoodies all masked up riding them across fields with groups of up to 15 sharing the bikes around. Unless you're willing to do a complete rebuild from ground up with a full engine rebuild or replacement lump, I'd just scrap a stolen bike and learn a lesson with bike security. A bike alarm is only £20, two wires into the battery and you'll hear if anyone touches your bike. Thumbs Up
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Doovy
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 21 Dec 2015    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boxing wrote:
Often see the hoodies all masked up riding them across fields with groups of up to 15 sharing the bikes around.


I don't know why, but this sort of arouses me, in an orgy kind of way.
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P.
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 01 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Come on Sammy. You've been on since. Updates updates updates.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 04 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Come on Sammy. You've been on since. Updates updates updates.


I've had to delay it for the time being, I've gone onto working nights (10pm-6am) for more money. So at the moment by the time I wake up it's already pitch black. Today is an exception I haven't been sleep yet. Also my nan died due to the nhs, long story not for here on the 1st December. So haven't had the time.

I did get another k100 as you can see below it doesn't look fully like that at the moment though, hit a diesel spill outside work. They have put a farm-foods filling station just around the corner on an unfinished road.

I went around the truck parked outside that is just before a roundabout, so I go around and then use both brakes to slow down. It's pitch black can't tell the road condition. An down I go.

Damage was as followed;
Top box,
Panniers,
Belly pan (causing a snapped engine bolt)

Managed to get it home and drilled out the engine bolt, put a new one in and that was that. Since been stoke and back 3 times so 600 miles plus down to Devon and back another 150odd miles. Engine runs fine.

https://i.imgur.com/Kt0C9cYl.jpg
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Matt B
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 04 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

You binned it already? Kept that quiet.

Spill Counter https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=309330
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 04 Jan 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt B wrote:
You binned it already? Kept that quiet.

Spill Counter https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=309330


Screw the spill counter I rarely come on here any more.
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 236 days between these two posts...

TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I wasn't going to do this but screw it. I may be the biggest idiot in the world but something has changed.

I sold this project to someone I knew for £300 telling them if I could of got it running then I was going to do a big tour on it. Right then so this bike was sold about 2 months ago. Get a phone call the other night that the guy has fixed it.

Turned out to be a fuel pump issue and a wire that had been sliced. Anyway long story short I got it back on Friday night.

https://i.imgur.com/tcteuQAl.jpg

Right then as you can see here I've changed the mudguard over with a new second hand one that came with the bike when I got it back. If you look closely you can also see a bungee strap going across the seat. Using this as a guide I've marked up how big I want my seat to be. My decision is to have at least two different types of seats. One that will be this seat cut down the other is a spring saddle seat. I've got a friend at work that is willing to fabricate a metal plate for the seat to sit on.

https://i.imgur.com/kNnwtyVl.jpg

Right then so after doing that I decided to have a look at fitting the clocks that came with it. I'm missing a load of bolts so got to find the right size don't fancy cutting some down to size. To be honest with the clocks it doesn't look that bad in my opinion.

https://i.imgur.com/uKVB5vKl.jpg

Now I've got a list of things to sort out and one of them is why I created the thread in workshop regarding connectors. Here is the wiring below of the old indicators. Now I'm going have to chop these as I've ordered generic indicators from ebay with bullets on for now.

https://i.imgur.com/7F0FMx5l.jpg

Also got a problem with the throttle cable hopefully someone more resourceful than myself can help here. As you can see from this image below it's missing an attachment that goes at the end. This helps the throttle spring back. Now the throttle cable is good so I don't want to really just replace it (wasted expense) does anyone know if you can get a repair kit for them.

https://i.imgur.com/RBINaYHl.jpg
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Words can not express the sense of sheer bewilderment that is running through me.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your front mudguard is on bass ackwards...
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
Your front mudguard is on bass ackwards...


Yes I know I was trying it that way, to see what it looked like. Seriously doubt it will harm the engine or radiator like that. Do you have any idea on the throttle cable problem ?
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P.
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sell as it is. Use that money to order kebabs and pizza.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 21:52 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

TheSmiler wrote:
pdg wrote:
Your front mudguard is on bass ackwards...


Yes I know I was trying it that way, to see what it looked like. Seriously doubt it will harm the engine or radiator like that. Do you have any idea on the throttle cable problem ?


Now you know, it looks like shit... It's too short at the back, which means with your 'all weather' riding it'll fill the rad full of crap, which you'll not notice /forget about until the engine (which is known to run on the warm side anyway) melts - what won't help is feeding the notoriously fragile fan a nice mix of road grime and water. Oh, and it may deflect at the front and rub the tyre too.

I can't tell which end of the throttle cable it is, but if it's the grip end then the chain part is riveted on and not available separately. A new cable is only a couple of quid and that one is broken.

I could probably fix it, and if it were mine I probably would - but I have tools and know how to operate them whereas you "don't fancy" cutting down a bolt...
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdg wrote:


Now you know, it looks like shit... It's too short at the back, which means with your 'all weather' riding it'll fill the rad full of crap, which you'll not notice /forget about until the engine (which is known to run on the warm side anyway) melts - what won't help is feeding the notoriously fragile fan a nice mix of road grime and water. Oh, and it may deflect at the front and rub the tyre too.

I can't tell which end of the throttle cable it is, but if it's the grip end then the chain part is riveted on and not available separately. A new cable is only a couple of quid and that one is broken.

I could probably fix it, and if it were mine I probably would - but I have tools and know how to operate them whereas you "don't fancy" cutting down a bolt...


Yes it does look like shit, that is why I'm going to change it. I'm putting a radiator guard on the bike and a guard over the air intake. The throttle cable is the handlebar end at the bottom it was still connected when I took that photo. As you can see from the image below.
The chain and the actual throttle housing is fine I've already checked that, a new cable for a k100RS (Jan) is actually quite hard to find most have reverted to the new cables now or an after market throttle cable (home made). The new cables require an extra few parts to make it work as well. The ones on motorworks anyway.

If you didn't have any help with the question you could of just said, regarding the bolts I don't see the point in cutting a good bolt when one I haven't got that many and two they are extremely cheap to buy. I know you have the tools and know how this is why I went against my own gut instinct and posted it up. So the people with the know how can actually help those that don't. I thought that is what this forum was supposed to be about; or am I wrong and it is here for a select few to take the mickey out of someone for asking any question. No wonder why there are so many people that don't even want to be a part of this forum any more.

https://i.imgur.com/wtln5eQl.jpg
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pdg
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 28 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am being helpful.

The picture of the throttle cable linkage looks the same as mine, what part exactly is missing?

If you want to run a shorty mudguard that's fine, but you'll need to think carefully about how to protect the rad/fan and intake. A bit of mesh won't stop salty crap flying through and a solid cover will restrict the airflow.

A bit of mesh over the intake with an oem filter (don't waste money on a 'sports' replacement, they're shite) will be fine, but the rad is a different matter. The oem fans are well known to seize up just for shits and giggles so a better replacement should be high on the priority list and religiously hose out the rad after every damp winter ride otherwise it'll just get eaten away.

As for the seat idea - a sprung saddle? Really? It just won't sit right on the frame or suit the riding position. They fit on a waspish hardtail with a skinny frame, but certainly not on a k frame.

The thing is, I can go through all this with you again, for the fifth time but you always know best. Just like when you posited your single seat idea before and got all shitty when I categorically demostrated that it wouldn't work.

I also remember telling you 3 times to check the fuel pump wiring - which you insisted you had done but wouldn't provide details of - which, surprise surprise, turned out to be the issue all along.

You mildly irked me so this is real-life karma. I spent hours trying to help you with this thing when everyone else was telling you to scrap it. I offered you a set of bodywork for it for free which you turned down because it was the wrong colour and then bought the same bits in the same colour.

I'm not even going to tell you to just connect the replacement indicators whatever way round you feel like because they aren't polarity sensitive unless they're LED, and if they are LED that 2 seconds with a meter will tell you the polarity - you'll just ignore that and ask 17 other people, who will tell you the same thing and you'll ignore them too and wire them to the exhaust then bitch it was our fault they don't work.

I'll be properly shocked if you get this thing back on the road, and even more shocked if it doesn't look like a shitty lashup.
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TheSmiler
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 29 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
I am being helpful.

The picture of the throttle cable linkage looks the same as mine, what part exactly is missing?

If you want to run a shorty mudguard that's fine, but you'll need to think carefully about how to protect the rad/fan and intake. A bit of mesh won't stop salty crap flying through and a solid cover will restrict the airflow.

A bit of mesh over the intake with an oem filter (don't waste money on a 'sports' replacement, they're shite) will be fine, but the rad is a different matter. The oem fans are well known to seize up just for shits and giggles so a better replacement should be high on the priority list and religiously hose out the rad after every damp winter ride otherwise it'll just get eaten away.

As for the seat idea - a sprung saddle? Really? It just won't sit right on the frame or suit the riding position. They fit on a waspish hardtail with a skinny frame, but certainly not on a k frame.

The thing is, I can go through all this with you again, for the fifth time but you always know best. Just like when you posited your single seat idea before and got all shitty when I categorically demostrated that it wouldn't work.

I also remember telling you 3 times to check the fuel pump wiring - which you insisted you had done but wouldn't provide details of - which, surprise surprise, turned out to be the issue all along.

You mildly irked me so this is real-life karma. I spent hours trying to help you with this thing when everyone else was telling you to scrap it. I offered you a set of bodywork for it for free which you turned down because it was the wrong colour and then bought the same bits in the same colour.

I'm not even going to tell you to just connect the replacement indicators whatever way round you feel like because they aren't polarity sensitive unless they're LED, and if they are LED that 2 seconds with a meter will tell you the polarity - you'll just ignore that and ask 17 other people, who will tell you the same thing and you'll ignore them too and wire them to the exhaust then bitch it was our fault they don't work.

I'll be properly shocked if you get this thing back on the road, and even more shocked if it doesn't look like a shitty lashup.


It didn't seem that way at all.

Regarding this throttle cable I believed there to be a part that stopped the cable from entering into the wheel area. A rubber boot that goes into the hole. I might be 100% mistaken here I can't seem to find a good diagram on the setup of the throttle wheel anyway to work out what position it should be in exactly. Don't have one an image to go on by example of the throttle wheel setup. However with adjusting the actual throttle cable halfway down or adjusting it at the top in the wheel neither allows the throttle to spring back. Yet if you remove it you can get the throttle to work at the fuel rail area just by pulling on the cable.

The mudguard will be replaced in the future when I upgrade the front end and the rear wheel to k1100 parts, at least that will give me better brakes and it will also give me more access to modern tyres. Wider choice of rubber and better brakes would be more beneficial.

I won't be bothering with a sports filter or any other kind I don't see the point of them with this bike. Nice to know that the mesh won't really harm the air intake though I actually thought it might due to restricting the amount of air getting into the box. Not restricting the amount just the rate of how fast it goes in. I could be completely wrong in my workings though.

Yes I'm going for a cut down k100 seat modified or a sprung saddle seat. If I can work it so I can have either option I will. Regarding the single seat idea not working how do you explain that a police seat actually works then. Here is an image of a k100 with a single seat and rack the person still rides that and is fine with it. Or below a k75 naked with single seat and rack, the person rides that and it still works. I might not like the spring saddle seat at all but I think it's worth a go. Might look stupid but I'd rather try than never know.

https://i86.servimg.com/u/f86/18/38/73/63/k100_r10.jpg

https://i18.servimg.com/u/f18/18/38/73/63/img_1720.jpg

I did check the fuel pump at the time and it showed that it was working, I poured fuel down the spark plug holes and still couldn't get it to start. This is what the guy has told me it could have been something completely different and he was lying to me I don't honestly know.

The indicators that you are referring to I'm just going with standard generic universal indicators. These are not LED so no need for any resistors to be fitted cheap and cheerful. I'm not that stupid that I would wire them to something else, the wires are still connected. I tried before with my old indicators on the k100rs; you remember the red one I had I tested other parts on the current k to see what was working and what wasn't.

I have no idea what you are on about regarding a fairing as I never aimed to put this bike to faired again and I didn't order any fairing parts for this bike what so ever, so right there you have me stumped. This bike will get back on the road although it may not look that pleasant to the eye, at the moment the idea is to take it matte black. I'm not doing this project out of logic or any other interesting point. I'm doing it for me to ride and for myself to enjoy to prove to myself that I can do something if I put my mind to it.
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pdg
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PostPosted: 09:50 - 29 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

The missing part will be the adjuster barrel. It looks like a bolt with a hole through it and it goes outside the housing which is why I couldn't see it was missing... The rubber boot just goes over that to protect it.

I didn't say a single seat wouldn't function, but tbh both the ones pictured look crap. Like I said when you on about it before, your plan for how to do it wouldn't work. As for a sprung saddle - I guarantee it'll be gash - they're passable when the tank and frame follow the same hourglass shaped lines, but it's a k, it's brick shaped - it'll look like a k with a pushbike saddle strapped on.

Why not try a horsey saddle? at least it'll fit the shape closer.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 29 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

pdg wrote:
The missing part will be the adjuster barrel. It looks like a bolt with a hole through it and it goes outside the housing which is why I couldn't see it was missing... The rubber boot just goes over that to protect it.


Sounds like one of these:-

https://www.venhill.co.uk/Cables_-_Components_Kits/Cable_Components/Adjusters

But normally the cable nipple needs to go on to the cable after the adjuster, unless it is the split type of adjuster (ie, type normally used on clutch cables).

All the best

Katy
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pdg
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PostPosted: 13:39 - 29 Aug 2016    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
pdg wrote:
The missing part will be the adjuster barrel. It looks like a bolt with a hole through it and it goes outside the housing which is why I couldn't see it was missing... The rubber boot just goes over that to protect it.


Sounds like one of these:-

https://www.venhill.co.uk/Cables_-_Components_Kits/Cable_Components/Adjusters

But normally the cable nipple needs to go on to the cable after the adjuster, unless it is the split type of adjuster (ie, type normally used on clutch cables).

All the best

Katy


On these they use a small nipple that can fit through the adjuster barrel.
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